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06-23-2020, 06:56 PM | #1 |
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Stall/No Re-start with push button start
I picked up a 2013 10 Series with a manual transmission for my son about a week ago, and we were having our first long driving session today (previously he's only done a few parking lot sessions--a couple in another car, and one in this car). Of course, he stalled the car quite a few times. This car has the push button start, and sometimes it would restart immediately, and sometimes it would not restart at all, which I found disconcerting, as we were blocking a few intersections (and took a good bit of honking, LOL).
So, my question is, is there something we are doing wrong with the push button, or some specific sequence that needs to be followed to make it start immediately? I pressed the button myself from the passenger seat with my son depressing the clutch and brake, no joy; I jumped out and into the driver seat, and one time it immediately started, a second time (pulling into our driveway no less), it took a little longer bit of waiting and pressing the button and pedals to get it to work again. Thanks in advance! |
06-23-2020, 07:02 PM | #2 |
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How'd the battery on the fob? Do you have the key too far from the button? Try placing the key right next to the button when you try to start it (obviously have the clutch depressed) See if that helps you any.
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06-23-2020, 07:15 PM | #3 | |
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Quote:
I suppose a new battery could be in order. I had the key on a lanyard around my neck in the passenger seat. I don't see any guidance in the manual about the distance the key works from. I do see something about placing the "Scion" side of the key toward the start/stop button, but that appears to be for when the battery dies, but might be useful in this situation as well. The car did eventually start just fine, and the fob locks and unlocks the car fine from a good 20 feet, so it would seem like the battery it is good. Is it possible my son didn't get the clutch and/or brake engaged fully when he first pressed the button, and it put the car into some other mode (like accessory), and then we had to luck into a way out of that? |
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06-23-2020, 07:30 PM | #4 |
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That would be my guess. Brake doesn't matter but clutch has to be right to the floor.
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06-23-2020, 07:35 PM | #5 |
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Okay, this is strange... just went out in the driveway and held the key up against the button, and got a blinking green "smart key system indicator light." I found a video saying this was a "no start" condition caused by the steering wheel being in the locked position. But, I can't find any other list of causes for blinking green. After sitting there pressing buttons for a bit, the indicator did go green, and the car started immediately. ???
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06-23-2020, 07:35 PM | #6 |
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I have a 10 Series too. I have had same problem sporadically, finally had it replaced. It's either the Clutch switch or a loose connection on that switch. Videos on here on a DIY. Dealer charge is close to $300 to replace.
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06-23-2020, 07:49 PM | #7 |
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It could be that you're toggling between off/acc/ingition. when you push the button without pressing the clutch you go through all 3 in a sequence. the car will only start if you push the clutch and press the button in 'off' or in 'ignition'. in ACC it won't start. when in doubt, turn it completely off, press the clutch and push the button. should fire right up.
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06-23-2020, 07:52 PM | #8 | ||
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Quote:
I think you may be on to something--I just went out again, and jogged the clutch a few times, and the third time the light went solid green. I'll do a search for the repair. Quote:
This is still a possibility, but I'm thinking it is the issue listed above. I'll test it again a little later, and try to confirm. |
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06-23-2020, 08:54 PM | #9 |
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So, basically the car won't start unless you dance on the clutch a few times, so I'm 99% convinced that it is the interlock switch. There's a second switch for cruise control as well. Called my local (Subaru) dealer, and he wasn't able to verify which one I need for sure, but for $20 each, I just ordered them both for Friday pickup. So, hopefully we'll be back in business by the weekend.
Thanks to roosahorn for pointing me toward that! |
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06-23-2020, 09:31 PM | #10 | |
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06-23-2020, 10:25 PM | #11 | |
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Sweet, thank you! |
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06-26-2020, 11:32 PM | #12 |
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Wanted to update you all...
So, I replaced both clutch safety switches--one is the interlock, and one is for cruise control. I wasn't 100% sure which was which (although it seems obvious reading the switch descriptions in hindsight), so I just ordered both since they were only $20 each. Having said that, I am fairly certain the "upper" switch, which has an all black housing, is the interlock, and the "lower" switch is the cruise, which as a blue housing. I ordered through my local Subaru dealer, since it is all the same, and I was able to find the part easier on the Subaru parts diagram, and it appeared to be less money than the (possibly) corresponding Toyota part. Here are the part numbers: Upper switch (Interlock): 83281AA010 (link) Lower switch (Cruise Control): 83281AA000 (link) The upper switch is pushed in when the clutch is depressed (interlock), whereas the lower switch is released when the clutch is depressed (deactivates cruise). You really need to remove the lower switch to get to the upper one, but the lower switch is pretty easy, whereas the upper one is, well, a bit of a bitch--the nut is completely blind, at least for me, since I could only contort so much. You need to hold the switch with pliers as well, or it spins, so you have to somehow contort to get pliers to hold it, and a 14mm wrench on the blind back nut. Getting it off actually wasn't that bad... getting it back on was something else... I lost one nut, but took one off the old switch, and used a magnetic finder tool to hold the nut on the back side of the plate--it still took me about 10 minutes to finally get the switch to thread, but then it was easy. Both switch connectors were also fairly easy to unlatch--the upper one being very easy. Also, you need to activate the clutch and see that the switch depresses/releases properly, otherwise adjust the engagement with the front nut (adjust the length of the rod) to get it right. And the results? Well, depressing the clutch now yields a solid green security key symbol. Before replacing the switch, I only got a security key symbol after pressing the start/stop button--nothing at all showed up when just pressing the clutch (I did not know this was the behavior, but it is apparent now). The car showed a solid green security key symbol and started right up three times in a row, so I am going to say that this is solved. Thanks to everyone for the input! |
The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to couver For This Useful Post: | soundman98 (06-27-2020), Spuds (06-29-2020), Thefalls (07-01-2020), theneptune86 (06-27-2020), tobin (06-28-2021), ToySub1946 (06-27-2020) |
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