spcmafia 18 BRZ

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

OEM pads and rotors should be fine for auto x. My current street/track setup is OEM Pads/Rotors then pad swapping to CL RC6.

I don't see why you couldn't auto x on your street setup then just pad swap for track events. Sorry if I missed something.

BUT if you do want a better then OEM pad. Ferodo ds2500 is a good option or a Hawk HPS

Well, the biggest thing is that lifting the car to do a swap now involves dragging my Quick jack, which is kind of pain to do on my current house setup.



Im still on my original brake setup (56k miles) so I was thinking about ordering new parts in the event that something that wouldn't have been caught with normal driving could be caught during a more extreme situation. So would it be better to do a fresh swap of components before that happens or just roll with what I have.





Side question, do you use a Go-Pro or dash-cam to record your laps?

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

Well, the biggest thing is that lifting the car to do a swap now involves dragging my Quick jack, which is kind of pain to do on my current house setup.



Im still on my original brake setup (56k miles) so I was thinking about ordering new parts in the event that something that wouldn't have been caught with normal driving could be caught during a more extreme situation. So would it be better to do a fresh swap of components before that happens or just roll with what I have.




Side question, do you use a Go-Pro or dash-cam to record your laps?

Yeah.... Swapping pads is definitely not convenient lol I drew the line at pads swapping rotors was a step to far haha

Some good blanks and one of the pads I mentioned before would be a great street setup. I might do something like that if I ever go to a bbk. My OEM pads will outlast me I drive so little lol


I use an aim smarty cam3 and aim solo 2 DL. Does all the overlay on the fly and you can scrub your video/data together in race studio 3. Its amazing

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

Yeah.... Swapping pads is definitely not convenient lol I drew the line at pads swapping rotors was a step to far haha

Some good blanks and one of the pads I mentioned before would be a great street setup. I might do something like that if I ever go to a bbk. My OEM pads will outlast me I drive so little lol


I use an aim smarty cam3 and aim solo 2 DL. Does all the overlay on the fly and you can scrub your video/data together in race studio 3. Its amazing

Do tell me more about your video setup! Im quickly looking at the website and it looks fantastic. Can you mount it on a helmet or more like a dashcam?

[Spuds]

+1 on ds2500 if you do decide to do that, works great on the street for me. Just be careful before it's bedded in. Stock brakes worked fine for me last year, but you will want to bleed often and/or upgrade fluid. Realizing the fluid boiled on you in the middle of a run is interesting.

I did my first 3-4 events on stock size street tires then went to 245/40 re71rs on a 9" width rim because I wanted to see where I stacked up relative to others in the class. AX is fun either way, you just get different things out of it. If you are going with sticky tires, I would add some negative camber or you are just going to be using the outer edge all the time.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

Do tell me more about your video setup! Im quickly looking at the website and it looks fantastic. Can you mount it on a helmet or more like a dashcam?

The camera itself uses a standard tripod screw so if you want to use go pro mounts you need to get the tripod adapter from go pro. Easy enough

I have my smarty cam attached to a Tackform Headrest Mount which I just leave mounted in the car. Takes me maybe 5mins to hook up the solo and camera. The longest part time wise is wrapping the obd2 cable underneath the wheel lol. The rest of the cables are just left neatly/hidden in the car.

I am using a ram mount with solo adapter for the solo 2 dl and also my phone when street driving. Works great rock solid and doesn't fall off even after many months unlike most cheaper suction cup mounts.

For what the system does its stupid easy once you get it setup. I don't even turn it off/on lol. The GPS lap/track detection does everything for me. I myself am new to the AIM world and have become a total fan boy 10/10 would recommend. OH and if you play games like iracing you can view your sim data in race studio to get a feel for the software.

NOTE the AIM stuff is not for autox its for track days

[cmiovino]

I commented on one of your other posts somewhere about autocross related things. I do about 30 events per year, mainly locals, but I did one national event last year.

For brakes, I run the DS2500's. They're expensive, but great pads. Give good modulation, which is what you want in an autocross pad. Caution though - the squeal. Even with gobs of CRC brake goop, you basically need to lubricate them once or twice a year to keep the noise away.

Don't think you need to drop $400+ on pads though. Anything really works. I ran Stoptech for years. Hawk work too.

Tire-wise, I always say just get out there on what you have and go for it. I used to swap wheels/tires at the event, but that gets old. Especially in these cars putting four tires and jack inside. You can do it, it just sucks a bit. Even gets old doing it at home the night before (when I used to daily drive and then head to events on weekends).

Just go test out how the tires you have are now. If you want to get a second set and put them on in the spring and taking them off in the fall, that works too. You could even get a more winter oriented set for daily driving in the winter then.

I absolutely do not recommend just bolting on the stickiest tire. You end up relying on the tire instead of actually learning how to drive. I'd recommend something like a Falken 615k+ for a year or two, use them up, then graduate onto something else. The Michelins you have now would also work.

Don't try to compare yourself to everyone for basically the entire first year or two. Just go out there and learn. Maybe compare against yourself.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

I commented on one of your other posts somewhere about autocross related things. I do about 30 events per year, mainly locals, but I did one national event last year.

For brakes, I run the DS2500's. They're expensive, but great pads. Give good modulation, which is what you want in an autocross pad. Caution though - the squeal. Even with gobs of CRC brake goop, you basically need to lubricate them once or twice a year to keep the noise away.

Don't think you need to drop $400+ on pads though. Anything really works. I ran Stoptech for years. Hawk work too.

Tire-wise, I always say just get out there on what you have and go for it. I used to swap wheels/tires at the event, but that gets old. Especially in these cars putting four tires and jack inside. You can do it, it just sucks a bit. Even gets old doing it at home the night before (when I used to daily drive and then head to events on weekends).

Just go test out how the tires you have are now. If you want to get a second set and put them on in the spring and taking them off in the fall, that works too. You could even get a more winter oriented set for daily driving in the winter then.

I absolutely do not recommend just bolting on the stickiest tire. You end up relying on the tire instead of actually learning how to drive. I'd recommend something like a Falken 615k+ for a year or two, use them up, then graduate onto something else. The Michelins you have now would also work.

Don't try to compare yourself to everyone for basically the entire first year or two. Just go out there and learn. Maybe compare against yourself.

This is fantastic advice. I think Im just anxious more than anything and cannot wait to get started. More than anything listen to what everyone has to say to me and apply it. If anything, the buggy thing I want to invest in is a helmet and a good camera to record my driving and post for tips and feedback.

Do you think I should just go centric rotors with OEM/stop tech pads so that way I don’t beat on my 56K miles pads?

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

Do you think I should just go centric rotors with OEM/stop tech pads so that way I don’t beat on my 56K miles pads?

I'd highly recommend the Centric rotors when you need new ones. My 2017 still has the originals. If yours are still working and aren't totally rusted, I'd just keep them. Blank ones work jut fine.

Not sure what you're saying by "don't beat on my 56K mile pads". They're not something special or something to preserve lol. I'd just use them up or if you just want to dump them, get new pads. Definitely don't be swapping pads for events. I talk about not wanting to swap wheels and tires - so swapping pads I'd only leave for the actual big track... and that's only because you need a different compound there than on the street.

Don't overthink it for just getting into autox. I ran all seasons and jut replacement street pads for years. Daily drove everyday to work and as things needed replaced, I generally got better parts here and there, mainly to build a fun street car.

My pads were shot at 40k and a lot of the previous owner's driving seemed to be highway. Just get some StopTechs, EBC, etc. Whatever floats your boat to daily drive on mainly.

[Racecomp Engineering]

You don't need dedicated auto-x pads and have to deal with swapping before events. You can auto-x on your OEM pads if you want. Use em up if they still have meat or get something that feels good. Definitely do not need to swap rotors either.

I used to like Stoptech pads but I probably wouldn't use them now. With Hawk...be sure exactly which pad you're getting. The HPS 5.0 is a fine "performance" street pad but avoid regular HPS or HP+. Plenty of other options out there too. The Ferodos feel pretty darn good but yes can make some noise.

- Andrew

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

I'd highly recommend the Centric rotors when you need new ones. My 2017 still has the originals. If yours are still working and aren't totally rusted, I'd just keep them. Blank ones work jut fine.

Not sure what you're saying by "don't beat on my 56K mile pads". They're not something special or something to preserve lol. I'd just use them up or if you just want to dump them, get new pads. Definitely don't be swapping pads for events. I talk about not wanting to swap wheels and tires - so swapping pads I'd only leave for the actual big track... and that's only because you need a different compound there than on the street.

Don't overthink it for just getting into autox. I ran all seasons and jut replacement street pads for years. Daily drove everyday to work and as things needed replaced, I generally got better parts here and there, mainly to build a fun street car.

My pads were shot at 40k and a lot of the previous owner's driving seemed to be highway. Just get some StopTechs, EBC, etc. Whatever floats your boat to daily drive on mainly.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

You don't need dedicated auto-x pads and have to deal with swapping before events. You can auto-x on your OEM pads if you want. Use em up if they still have meat or get something that feels good. Definitely do not need to swap rotors either.

I used to like Stoptech pads but I probably wouldn't use them now. With Hawk...be sure exactly which pad you're getting. The HPS 5.0 is a fine "performance" street pad but avoid regular HPS or HP+. Plenty of other options out there too. The Ferodos feel pretty darn good but yes can make some noise.

- Andrew

I think I should've worded the phrase better.


My worry is that I might abuse, due to my lack of experience, whatever amount of pad is left given the miles and years on them, which would require a replacement afterwards anyways. I just fear some type of failure, whatever that may be.



Or, is it better to do a fresh install of rotors/pads/fluid which at that point and onward, adjust/replace the pads depending on driving condition/ experience level.

[cmiovino]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

My worry is that I might abuse, due to my lack of experience, whatever amount of pad is left given the miles and years on them, which would require a replacement afterwards anyways. I just fear some type of failure, whatever that may be.

Or, is it better to do a fresh install of rotors/pads/fluid which at that point and onward, adjust/replace the pads depending on driving condition/ experience level.

You're probably thinking autocross is very brake-intensive. It's not really. Not any more than regular street driving at least. Autox speeds don't exceed 60mph. You're only braking from 60 to zero once, maybe at the end (if there's even a 60mph zone at the finish). Everything else on course in you're only on the brakes here and there, mostly tapping them, or slowing from 60-30mph.

In contrast, track driving you might see speeds of 100mph or more even in these cars and braking down to 40mph in some cases... doing that again and again over a 20 minute session. It's completely different than a 45 second autox run of much lower speeds.

So given that, OEM pads get the job done. They probably don't give the best feel however.

If yours have enough pad left to pass inspection, they're fine for autox really. The car needs to be at least road worthy.

But, I also can't say no to just swapping them out now at 56k if they're lower than like 25% life remaining and they'll need done shortly. Just don't think they're absolutely necessary though.

You're not going to have any failures being brake related at autocross, even if you had 10 year old fluid and stock pads.

I would say for piece of mind, go over and get under the car to check everything out. Check your pad life, bushing play, any leaks, etc. Just general maintenance items.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by cmiovino

You're not going to have any failures being brake related at autocross, even if you had 10 year old fluid and stock pads.

I did boil 1 year old brake fluid with Ax, but I live in a really humid environment so that might have affected it. Brakes still functioned but were very squishy and wouldn't trigger abs.

But I agree with everything else above. Getting even just a few minutes to cool down between runs greatly reduces the buildup of heat over the session vs constant lapping on a track. Stock equipment in good shape will work fine. If it's safe for highway use it's safe for ax.

[spcmafia]

Decided to get a few items in preparation to Auto X


GoPro Hero 12
Tracform Headrest Mount

Used set of Enkei Wheels 17X8+45


Now I just need some tires and helmet but that can wait until at least the first event.

[Spuds]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

Decided to get a few items in preparation to Auto X


GoPro Hero 12
Tracform Headrest Mount

Used set of Enkei Wheels 17X8+45


Now I just need some tires and helmet but that can wait until at least the first event.

Lol I got the same camera and mount last week.