Wheel stud/lug nuts issues: need recommendations

[JazzleSAURUS]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

fyi ARP has short studs for Subaru's now

http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-det...?RecordID=5105

But I wouldn't look down on anyone looking for a cheaper option, the price does make me wince.

I have the long ones all around, after about a year one corner went a little wonky (nuts no longer going on without effort, threads stretched or rounded? idk), replaced those and swapped to new lugs, Gorilla extended lugs and have been pretty good this year.

I think the biggest key to stud longevity is cleanliness, don't allow the wheel to drag on the threads, you get metal shavings which gum up in the threads until they strip, which is actually what you're experiencing, the threads get contaminated and chewed up, you're not snapping the lugs, you're snapping the lugs after the threads strip to get them off and fix them.

Just my two cents, best of luck.

Do you have a part number to the Gorilla lugs?

I'm a firm believer in the ARP extended lugs, but some customers want a closer to stock, or less expensive option.

My experience with lugs has been if you're careful, don't over torque them, clean them with a bit of PB Blaster and a harbor freight nylon brush they will last a long time, and many wheel changes.

I've yet to break an 86 lug, (have done a few replacements for customers,) and have only broken one on another Subaru. That was enough to learn the value of clean threads, and how cheap a bit of PB Blaster and a zillion HF brushes are.

I wish the NISMO extended lugs were a more cost effective option. I see very little value in them over the ARP's when the price is so close.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by mav1178

Why in the world do you need the maximum setting for an impact gun to remove lug nuts, especially when they are torqued by hand?

Your lug removal method is no better than the average mechanic.

Edit: if you are constantly cross-threading via the same method, you need to change how you take off and put on your lug nuts.

It's impossible to apply more torque than is necessary to undo the lug, so even if it was rated for 1000ft/lbs, it'll only apply enough to break it loose and spin it off.

[JohnJuan]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Are you buzzing them on with an impact, and not had starting?

What lugs?

Seems to me, cross threading is an install issue vs a parts issue(unless you have shitty parts).

Mine have been swapped at Discount tire in Eagan, Burnsville, and Shakopee each of the last 4 winters. I think they start them by hand, but I never really paid close enough attention. I've had a friend at autocross change them twice, and he told me the threads were getting bad. He hand tightened them, then torqued them down.

Stock lugs and lug nuts.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by JazzleSAURUS

Do you have a part number to the Gorilla lugs?

They're more expensive than I remember but they fully cover the extended stud and are 3/4" socket size so no being annoyed with a key.

45028BC-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


There are also Dorman studs which might fit the bill for someone not wanting to spend ARP money but I don't know if they're any better than stock. Should come up by just googling 'dorman stud brz' autozone carries them...

[JazzleSAURUS]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

They're more expensive than I remember but they fully cover the extended stud and are 3/4" socket size so no being annoyed with a key.

45028BC-20

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


There are also Dorman studs which might fit the bill for someone not wanting to spend ARP money but I don't know if they're any better than stock. Should come up by just googling 'dorman stud brz' autozone carries them...

Ty sir. I run the Muteki lug nuts on my own stuff and haven't had a failure myself, but the colored finishes do not hold up well. The chrome ones on the BRZ were on my FXT, 5 years of new england DD, no issue. Black ones from my wife's forester are now on her crosstrek. Still rust free. I got some SR48's in their 'dark titanium' color for the BRZ, which migrated to my FXT when I did the ARP studs, which were showing tarnish by the end of winter, and began rusting early the next winter. Disappointing as the color looked really good when new, I would of bought a set for both cars.

[Balf]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

There are also Dorman studs which might fit the bill for someone not wanting to spend ARP money but I don't know if they're any better than stock. Should come up by just googling 'dorman stud brz' autozone carries them...

I can vouch for these Dorman wheel studs. After 3 seized lug nuts across 2 wheels within a couple weeks time, I had enough and I was not paying the dealer to replace studs a second time. They are the same size as OE but are grade 10. I added new Gorilla lugs at the same time and I haven't had any lug/stud issues since. Totally worth the afternoon I spent swapping them out.

[TMF]

Originally Posted by Balf

I can vouch for these Dorman wheel studs. After 3 seized lug nuts across 2 wheels within a couple weeks time, I had enough and I was not paying the dealer to replace studs a second time. They are the same size as OE but are grade 10. I added new Gorilla lugs at the same time and I haven't had any lug/stud issues since. Totally worth the afternoon I spent swapping them out.

Did you have to take off the rear hub to do the rear ones?

[TMF]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Are you buzzing them on with an impact, and not had starting?

What lugs?

Seems to me, cross threading is an install issue vs a parts issue(unless you have shitty parts).

In my first post

Originally Posted by TMF

2. Put on different wheel, start each lug nut on the wheel stud by hand.
3. Tighten lug nuts in star pattern, with impact wrench at medium setting (tightens lug nuts to roughly 50 ft-lbs).

And I just switch to the Muteki's. I think stressed wheel studs and dirty threads are what caused the failures on mine.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by TMF

Did you have to take off the rear hub to do the rear ones?

IIRC you can do stock length studs without pulling the hub, but the full length ARP's need the rear hubs out. Fronts are easy with the rotors off.

[Balf]

Originally Posted by TMF

Did you have to take off the rear hub to do the rear ones?

Nope.

[ka-t_240]

Originally Posted by JohnJuan

Mine have been swapped at Discount tire in Eagan, Burnsville, and Shakopee each of the last 4 winters. I think they start them by hand, but I never really paid close enough attention. I've had a friend at autocross change them twice, and he told me the threads were getting bad. He hand tightened them, then torqued them down.

Stock lugs and lug nuts.

Stuck Lug nuts are very soft, likely they are using an impact and torq stick to install, also likely getting torqued to 100ft/lbs vs the correct spec if they are doing this.

[JohnJuan]

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Stuck Lug nuts are very soft, likely they are using an impact and torq stick to install, also likely getting torqued to 100ft/lbs vs the correct spec if they are doing this.

I'm remembering the torque stick now. It's a distinct possibility. Maybe I'll just have the tires mounted from now on, and install them on the car myself.

[Viper8]

Glad I ran into this...

Tried taking off a rear wheel yesterday to prep for a track day, and while unscrewing two lugs, they started to cross thread. I tightened them back up for the time being but am pretty sure they're going to snap their studs trying to get them off. Annoying because I'm pretty careful on install/removal so this sort of thing doesn't happen.

From what everyone has said, I'm going to go with ARP studs.

[TMF]

Originally Posted by Viper8

Glad I ran into this...

Tried taking off a rear wheel yesterday to prep for a track day, and while unscrewing two lugs, they started to cross thread. I tightened them back up for the time being but am pretty sure they're going to snap their studs trying to get them off. Annoying because I'm pretty careful on install/removal so this sort of thing doesn't happen.

From what everyone has said, I'm going to go with ARP studs.

I actually ended up getting the H&R 5mm spacer kit, which comes with 5mm longer wheel studs (they looks very similar to OEM). I don't run spacers and I also did not want to have to take the hubs off to replace the wheel studs (not necessary if they are only 5mm longer).

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/h-r-...l#.XREEhOtKiUk

I've been running these wheel studs along with the aforementioned closed-end Gorilla lug nuts for the last year, and I still hammer them off with the impact driver, and back on (gently) with the impact, torque to 90 ft-lbs, and I've had zero issues (and I've swapped wheels countless times). They thread just as smooth as day 1. I do clean up the threads occasionally with a 3M abbrasive pad, which helps.

FYI on the ARP's: there are 3 different lengths. I bought part #100-7728 because of the length, 1.95", which I thought should be slightly longer than stock. When I received the wheel studs, they are slightly longer than stock, however the threaded portion of this ARP stud ends at exactly the same length as the stock wheel stud. If you're looking for stock length replacements, these are the right length. If you want longer, you'll have to get the super long ones 2.535", part #100-7729.