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Old 12-12-2020, 11:57 AM   #71
Samwise_4k86
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Originally Posted by TRS View Post
Ok, when you go with a CD009 it might be possible that you dont have to deform the tunnel. But I dont can realy say anything about that since Im using a T56.

The T56 is also very rare in Germany. Further it is known as a sloppy gearbox from what ive heard and the OEM ratios are not realy optimal. So I went with a brand new T56 Magnum F close ratio. Its much stronger then the production T56, has optimal rarios and shifts pretty good once the oil is warm. Concerning price I didnt feel that its too expensive. Including bellhousing, transportation and customs arround 4k Euro. With the current exchange rate it might be even less.

I've heard about the RHD question. But after I did a kit myself Im asking if this is a myth. The drivetrain is located in the exact same position for LHD and RHD. The difference on the car is firewall, dashboard and stearing column are mirrord and battery and power break are exchanged. I dont see any difference for the engine and trans bracket, they should be exactly same in order to maintain proper driveshaft angle. The complete drivetrain Position of the OEM drivetrain is identical between LHD and RHD vehicles from all what I know. There are also no multiple part # available for LHD and RHD Version of those components touching the drivetrain.

The only Real difference is, that you need headers which pass the steraing column on the left and not on the right side. Sure, also some brakets for clutch master and other stuff mounted to the firewall might change. But I dont know any kit which includes such stuff.

I might be wrong since I didnt do a LHD swap, but I would say that there isnt much of a difference talking about the engine and trans position.

Sure, if I was a company selling a kit, I also would say that its not suitable for LHD as long as I didnt test it. The difference is that Sikky has a full CAD Model with LHD and RHD components available what gives the possibility to check fitment for both in CAD. But again, the only Real difference is the steering column beeing on the left. So in the end it is only a question of the headers you use, not of the mount kit you are buying.

In my case I also might have to change the clutch master bracket, clutch reservoir bracket, the valve cover trim and possibly the AC line adapter. But not the base components of the kit. I would realy expect them to work also on LHD.

Concerning headers: LHD might even be a little easier when it comes to routing along the sterring column. Due to the driveshaft angle the whole powertrain is tilted a little to the left. This means you should have a few millimeters (realy only a few) more to go by the column. As well, you dont have column, brake lines and fuel lines on the same side. The only down side is, that the starter of the LS is located on the right. But you might anyway get space trouble if you use one of the big old style starters. The later versions are smaller and pretty compact.

Concerning pricing again: If you dont have a harness, buy a OEM one and modify to your needs. If you know how to solder two lines correctly its not that hard. I would look for a used Camaro engine harness and a E38. Sure, the E38 doesnt give the same freedom as a free programmable ECU, but it is surprisingly close. As long as you dont plan to freak out completely and go nitro or turbo it should be very adequat to suit the needs. As well, combined with AGT translator its by far the best bang for the bug if you ask me. Also, it is the best OEM style Integration. I have to say that this solution worked perfect and flawlessly for me.



Great post!


I'll keep my options open in regards to the ECU and wiring harness, i'm no mechanic personally, ironically i'm a computer nerd which is probably why i have zero interest in actually learning eletronics, etc. I can do very basic things but the idea of splicing apart a whole wiring harness just sounds like a nightmare to me and I don't really have an inclination to learn it as it sounds far too much like work, just one of those things i suppose!


In regards to headers i'd just end up keeping it easy and using Sikky's headers as well, as you say their kit is made with both RHD and LHD and i'm lead to believe they have various transmissions in mind from the T56, TR6060 and CD009 in mind so i'd like to just keep everything simple in that regard.





The CD009 is pretty strong, very common, much easier to buy clutches for and has nicer ratio's I believe unlike the T56 with its double overdrive but in the grand scheme of things by the time you buy a CD009 and the conversion kit i'd only have saved $500 or so over buying a T56 but that's a much easier pill to swallow for me than the 3-3.5k that a T56 costs, just in my case i'm 28, trying to get my first house so bit of a silly game to be playing but at the same time I'll definitely get it done even if it just takes a year or so to save alongside silly things like a mortgage
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Old 12-12-2020, 04:03 PM   #72
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Hmm, dont underestimate the double overdrive. I have already a very long ratio diff. Pretty much the smallest ratio I know about for the OEM diff. The wheel diameter of the 86 is pretty small, so you need high axle rpm to make use of the possible Vmax. Same time this engine has plenty of torque. So a 1st gear ending at 60 or 70 kph is completely useless. You pretty much Lose this gear. It will make you slower instead of faster if you Start in 1st. My ratio for 1st is ending some where at 85 kph and this is a pretty good point as I learned. I was very concerned in the beginning if this long 1st is maybe not a good idea. But now I have to say it was the best thing to do. 1st is still in a range where you can spin tires even on a good grip level with warm rubber. Second gear ends close to 130kph and, at good grip level, doesnt slip. This helps with effective speed and drivability of the car.

Sure, you can chose a shorter ratio and have a Show of easily spinning gears in 2nd or 3rd, but thats what it is, show of. Not more.

What you said about the clutch is not realy correct. You buy the clutch for the clutch and engine combination, true, but you buy it much more for the engine than for the tranny. The clutch needs to fit the LS at first. I dont know how the pilot can be fitted to the input shaft of the CD009, put for the T56 there are OEM solutions out there. For a combination of LS to CD009 there will at least be less possible clutch options since its not a OEM combination. With an Tremec trans you can use anything between an OEM LS3/7 clutch and a multi disc racing clutch. Sure, there will be far than more options for an LS with CD009. But I would guess definately less than for a LS/T56 combination.

Concerning wiring, again, its not that hard to do if you are able to understand a DC circuit and you have the circuit diagramms available. But of course, you shouldnt touch things you are not feeling comfortable with. But I've read thru your thread of the biuld you've done and I realy have to say that I think you are more than able to do this wiring on your own. As well if you are on a budget and want to save money with the CD009 (and I think you already understood that I'm not under the impression that this will come true in the end) I definately would not go out and spend money for someone doing a job you could do yourselfe.

But please never mind, Im just making suggestion, you have to decide on your own what you feel comfortable with.
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Old 12-31-2020, 10:10 AM   #73
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Paint work done and Facelift steering wheel and cluster also completely installed and working:





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Old 01-08-2021, 12:35 PM   #74
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Hi there, excellent work on your build! I've been following along with the hopes of completing a similar swap myself. That's beginning to look feasible so I thought I'd register and dive deeper into my research.

I'm wondering what size tires you are currently running, and if you are using the Magnum-F with the 2.66 first gear ratio. I have some excel sheets put together for comparing rear end ratios, transmission ratios along with tire size. I'm trying to determine the best setup possible. Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-12-2021, 06:07 PM   #75
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Hi there, excellent work on your build! I've been following along with the hopes of completing a similar swap myself. That's beginning to look feasible so I thought I'd register and dive deeper into my research.

I'm wondering what size tires you are currently running, and if you are using the Magnum-F with the 2.66 first gear ratio. I have some excel sheets put together for comparing rear end ratios, transmission ratios along with tire size. I'm trying to determine the best setup possible. Thanks in advance!
I'm using the close ratio, so yes, 2.66. You can find my gear vs speed table in Post #1. I use a 3.58 axel. I strongly recommend this ratio. I was unsure in the beginning because of the long 1st, but Im absolutely satisfied.
Many swappers (and also shops) seem to use stock axel and/or wide transmission ratio. In my book this is pointless. You pretty much lose 1st gear. Even with the long ratio tires are spinning in 1st without clutch kick and under good grip conditions.

Tires are 245/35R18 Federal RS-R on a 9.5J ET35 square. So diameter is identical to Stock.

The long 1st gear might be more challanging if you Plan to run on a hot cam. (I have LS3 stock cam, so 550rpm idle) But I tend to say that even a 1000rpm idle would be absolutely driveable and streetable. If you run a bad ass cam which needs 1500 idle I think streetable is nothing you are looking for, so it still should be fine.

In short, I cant find any reason to use a shorter 1st or axel ratio. Only thing this would be good for is ruining your 0-60 times.
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