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Old 05-07-2020, 03:52 PM   #21841
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I'm stumped
I certainly wish I could remove this wheel speed sensor bolt stump.



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You could take a nut, and weld the end of the broken bolt to the inside of the nut. Then take your time freeing it up.

Disconnect your battery before welding.
Unfortunately I don't have a welder. Was thinking if I could some how hammer in an indent big enough for a flathead to go into (of course I could end up damaging the threads in this case).


Are there any bolt extractor tools small enough to reach in?
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Old 05-07-2020, 03:59 PM   #21842
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Originally Posted by KR-S 86 View Post
I certainly wish I could remove this wheel speed sensor bolt stump.




Unfortunately I don't have a welder. Was thinking if I could some how hammer in an indent big enough for a flathead to go into (of course I could end up damaging the threads in this case).


Are there any bolt extractor tools small enough to reach in?
Can you get a Dremel tool in there with a cut off wheel and cut a slot for a flat head screwdriver?
They do make small screw extractors.
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Old 05-07-2020, 05:56 PM   #21843
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The "put a slot in it" trick can be a gamble. The metal near the break is twisted up and weak, so sometimes the bolt material just breaks away. Then your next option is drilling it out, but you just put a slot in the bolt which will make it difficult to keep the drill bit centered.

If you have enough bolt material to flatten it out again in the event the slot trick doesn't work, it's not a big deal.

If you're gonna try the slot trick spray repeatedly with PB Blaster and allow plenty of time to soak in to give you the best chance for success. Not WD-40, PB Blaster. It's the best.
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Old 05-07-2020, 06:54 PM   #21844
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Originally Posted by KR-S 86 View Post
So I'm in the middle of reinstalling the brake caliper bracket but I keep noticing that the rotor is rubbing up against the inside of the bracket. I doubt that's normal so I figure I'm doing something wrong, but the bolts seem to be going in correctly. I'm not about to drive the car with the rotors rubbing up against the bracket; anything I'm doing wrong here?
Picture?
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Old 05-07-2020, 07:20 PM   #21845
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Originally Posted by ActionMaxon View Post
The "put a slot in it" trick can be a gamble. The metal near the break is twisted up and weak, so sometimes the bolt material just breaks away. Then your next option is drilling it out, but you just put a slot in the bolt which will make it difficult to keep the drill bit centered.

If you have enough bolt material to flatten it out again in the event the slot trick doesn't work, it's not a big deal.

If you're gonna try the slot trick spray repeatedly with PB Blaster and allow plenty of time to soak in to give you the best chance for success. Not WD-40, PB Blaster. It's the best.
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Picture?
Yeah, pics would be great, tough to make a good, workable suggestion without putting eyes on it.
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Old 05-07-2020, 07:24 PM   #21846
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Dimple with center punch before drilling.
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Old 05-07-2020, 09:19 PM   #21847
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If you have open nuts, you can tighten to see if really touches the bracket or not. Or you already done that & still touches. Make sure bracket bolts are install correctly.
So yeah I just took the car for a small drive around the neighborhood (<20 MPH) and no grinding that I can hear whatsoever. The rotor was just fucking with my mind.

Gonna take pictures of the broken stud in a bit.
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Old 05-08-2020, 01:27 AM   #21848
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Nice. Got any pics of your LEDs? I replaced every bulb in my FR-S with LEDs (minus the headlights since they are HIDs from the factory, and I don't want to cut and redo the wiring to run LEDs
Sorry I'm responding late to this. I do have some pics, not the greatest, but they ought to get the job done. My phone's camera is pretty crappy at night, so the nighttime pictures look very starburst-y. It even makes my stock low beams look bad. The lights are not blindingly bright at all like some of the pics would make you think. (Don't know why one of the side marker pics got rotated 90 degrees)

Also, to note before I forget, I didn't get the fancy pants tap-turn relay with all the cool features, I got the very basic one that is just built to eliminate hyperflash and provide a 3-flash tap-turn. Wouldn't mind one that gave me something more like 5 flashes, but it's better than nothing. Also-also, swapping that relay was the most difficult and time consuming part of this entire process, lol. Second hardest I would say was probably dealing with removing the rather stubborn stock side markers. But all worth it.
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Old 05-08-2020, 01:29 AM   #21849
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And one more, since I hit my limit on the last post:
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Old 05-08-2020, 03:54 AM   #21850
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And one more, since I hit my limit on the last post:
Definitely brighter! I consider them safety items for our cars since they're rather short/low, so the more brighter the turn signals, the better.

Did you cut yourself when replacing flasher relay? I did when I did mine. lol
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Old 05-08-2020, 11:56 AM   #21851
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Changed my pads a few days ago. Got some Brembo pads from Autozone.

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No complaints.
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Old 05-08-2020, 12:19 PM   #21852
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KR-S 86 View Post
The rotor was just fucking with my mind.

Gonna take pictures of the broken stud in a bit.
LOL I should go out and take a picture of thousands of them lined up in rows and rows of skids and give you nightmares!
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Old 05-08-2020, 05:41 PM   #21853
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Trunk lid for OEM spoiler delete + TRD spoiler install arrived today and dropped off at body shop for paint

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Old 05-08-2020, 07:33 PM   #21854
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Did you cut yourself when replacing flasher relay? I did when I did mine. lol
Never got myself bloody, but I definitely broke the skin on my hands in about a half dozen places. I wore gloves doing everything else, but couldn't work in that space without removing them, otherwise I'd have avoided getting any nicks.
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