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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 04-13-2021, 11:56 AM   #1
Jstyle
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Wow what an interesting weekend

So this weekend I sold my Hellcat and decided to upgrade my Twin. I went ahead and dumped my 15 FRS (which had a very VERY rough life prior to me as you can see from my earlier posts) and traded it up new 2020 stripped down 86 because not counting the trade in I got it for 25k.

So I have some money to play with for the track car... I still have the XP10's and XP8's I never installed on the FRS so those are gonna go on the 86. I'm also gonna get some 57CR's in 17x9 and Falken 660's. Maybe an Oil cooler as well. I'm also thinking about getting a front splitter and wing from Verus just because it'll give me a little more traction.

I'm gonna wait till my track game gets a little stronger before I start going too hard core on suspension.

I could care less about power or sound for at least the time being.

Anyone have any recommendations?
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Old 04-13-2021, 12:45 PM   #2
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Y not wait for the new twins?


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Old 04-13-2021, 02:12 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Jstyle View Post
So this weekend I sold my Hellcat and decided to upgrade my Twin. I went ahead and dumped my 15 FRS (which had a very VERY rough life prior to me as you can see from my earlier posts) and traded it up new 2020 stripped down 86 because not counting the trade in I got it for 25k.

So I have some money to play with for the track car... I still have the XP10's and XP8's I never installed on the FRS so those are gonna go on the 86. I'm also gonna get some 57CR's in 17x9 and Falken 660's. Maybe an Oil cooler as well. I'm also thinking about getting a front splitter and wing from Verus just because it'll give me a little more traction.

I'm gonna wait till my track game gets a little stronger before I start going too hard core on suspension.

I could care less about power or sound for at least the time being.

Anyone have any recommendations?
Sounds like a good plan: brakes, wheels/tires, oil cooler. However, I suggest suspension and alignment (more camber) before aero. My 2¢
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Old 04-13-2021, 02:18 PM   #4
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Y not wait for the new twins?
lol first year new engine design from Subaru in a track car? pass


Unfortunately won't be able to get much camber with the 17x9's without doing top hats, maybe the pedders and a cam bolt could get you over -2 though, it'll pay for itself by the second set of tires, rear LCA's will be desired eventually might as well only align it once.
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Old 04-13-2021, 06:40 PM   #5
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lol first year new engine design from Subaru in a track car? pass

Agreed... That’s why I didn’t wait. I’ll let other owners grenade their engines\trannies\whatever through the first year and look at it the second.

Unfortunately won't be able to get much camber with the 17x9's without doing top hats, maybe the pedders and a cam bolt could get you over -2 though, it'll pay for itself by the second set of tires, rear LCA's will be desired eventually might as well only align it once.
So I kinda understand the idea behind camber. The idea is you tilt the tops of the wheels in or give you better traction. I know cam bolts are literally 1/10 of the price of new camber plates.. what’s the big advantage to getting camber plates as opposed to just getting bolts? Why would I need whole new LCA’s?
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Old 04-13-2021, 06:41 PM   #6
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Also what are top hats?

Sorry for the newb questions... not new to racing... I am new to racing on 4 wheels.
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Old 04-13-2021, 07:30 PM   #7
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Depending on the tyres you're running an how aggressively you're driving, these things need well in excess of -3 degrees camber on the front not to absolutely ruin the edge of your tyres. With camber bolts you'll get maybe 1-1.5 degrees, then with top mounts you'll get that up to around 3-3.5 degrees depending on the mounts.

Adjustable top mounts are mounts for the top of the shock that can move where the top of the shock is located. This gives you additional camber and caster adjustment. They generally come with a set of coil over suspension, although you can just buy the top mounts by themselves.

If you want to go above 3.5 degrees, you'd need to get front lower control arms.

This is all in my experience with Whiteline camber bolts and shockworks coilovers/adjustable top mounts running z221 semis on the track with likely too aggressive a driving style.

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Old 04-13-2021, 07:41 PM   #8
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So I kinda understand the idea behind camber. The idea is you tilt the tops of the wheels in or give you better traction. I know cam bolts are literally 1/10 of the price of new camber plates.. what’s the big advantage to getting camber plates as opposed to just getting bolts? Why would I need whole new LCA’s?
Camber plates offer more range, as mentioned -3 is a nice starting point for the front, I'm at -4 right now which you can't get with just bolts, as above suspension choice dictates what you need to do to get an aggressive alignment, lcas aren't necessary to hit -5 if the struts are designed for it.
Also given your planned wheel choice you will be limited by wheel to spring perch clearance when using camber bolts, you will not be able to hit -3 without camber plates or a camber adding top hat like pedders.

The rear is not camber adjustable from the factory, you need adjustable lower control arms to align the rear properly on this car.
This does the job for most people:
https://www.spcalignment.com/compone...tion&pid=67660

Top hats are the plates that mount the damper to the chassis, just another name for them. Camber adjustable top hats might be more proper then camber plates but meh who cares.
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Old 04-13-2021, 07:42 PM   #9
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Old 04-13-2021, 08:15 PM   #10
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Here is what I would do to be honest in this order:

Oil Cooler
Coils with Camber: Look at RCE SS-1s or CSG Tien Flex A's(do it once and be done)
Rear LCA's
Track Alignment at a good shop (aim for -3 up front and -2 or -2.1 rear)
Wheel and tire Package 17x9 and a 235-245 size tire
Use Carbotech's for Track. Get second pair of rotors to swap with the pads so you can re-use stock pads on the street(quiet and dust free)
Brake Ducts

Don't mess with Aero yet.
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Old 04-13-2021, 08:38 PM   #11
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My 0.02: rear LCAs in my case were unnecessary. I'm at -2.7 rear camber at -1.25", pretty much right where I want to be.
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Old 04-14-2021, 08:18 AM   #12
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If you're going to run any sort of Aero package the stock suspension is not enough to handle the amount of downforce being generated. For camber, compression and rebound valving, spring rate...etc

With that being said, I think Aero is a pretty big step from a light track build to something a bit more serious.
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Old 04-14-2021, 09:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jflogerzi View Post
Here is what I would do to be honest in this order:

Oil Cooler
Coils with Camber: Look at RCE SS-1s or CSG Tien Flex A's(do it once and be done)
Rear LCA's
Track Alignment at a good shop (aim for -3 up front and -2 or -2.1 rear)
Wheel and tire Package 17x9 and a 235-245 size tire
Use Carbotech's for Track. Get second pair of rotors to swap with the pads so you can re-use stock pads on the street(quiet and dust free)
Brake Ducts

Don't mess with Aero yet.
If I go with the CSG Tien's and add LCA's... I don't need camber plates anymore then do I?
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Old 04-14-2021, 09:43 AM   #14
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If I go with the CSG Tien's and add LCA's... I don't need camber plates anymore then do I?
Yes correct because they already come with camber plates

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