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Old 10-29-2020, 12:18 PM   #29
ZDan
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What's keeping you from getting 225 (or 215) RE71R, A052, RT660, etc? That would make a bigger difference in grip and handling feel than 225 vs. 215 PS4S...

I really doubt there's a whole lot in it, either 225 or 215 will work on 7.5" wheel, personally I'd go 225 just based on 215s looking puny on 17x7.5"...

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So a little more information about my car... It's full bolt on E85 and I have the pp wheels wheels which are 7.5. I know if I wanted to get max performance for better times it would be best to get a separate set of wheels with some sticky RE71 or A052 etc... in 245 but for now I only want to have one set of wheels. I've done some research and it seems that having 0.5 narrower tread width than the wheel width is good for feedback/responsive. The Ps4s in stock size have a 6.8 tread width so that is 0.7 narrower than the wheel width. Should I go with the 225 which is a 7.5 tread width or just stick with the 215 which is also the same diameter as stock. How much more grip will I really gain by moving up to 225 and is it worth it in exchange for the driver response and feedback of the 215? Im thinking also that the 225 with take more advantage of the -2 camber I have because more contact patch.
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Old 10-29-2020, 12:27 PM   #30
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What's keeping you from getting 225 (or 215) RE71R, A052, RT660, etc? That would make a bigger difference in grip and handling feel than 225 vs. 215 PS4S...

I really doubt there's a whole lot in it, either 225 or 215 will work on 7.5" wheel, personally I'd go 225 just based on 215s looking puny on 17x7.5"...
I may have left this out but mainly because it's my daily and I do 90% of driving on the street. I do autocross at least once a month to really push and experience the limit of the car.

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Old 10-29-2020, 12:44 PM   #31
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I may have left this out but mainly because it's my daily and I do 90% of driving on the street. I do autocross at least once a month to really push and experience the limit of the car.

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I would save money and get a second set of wheels/tires for autox. Less compromises, but more money.

Either buy nicer rims for daily and use stockers for autox. Or buy used wheels for auto x to save money for the tires.
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Old 10-29-2020, 12:57 PM   #32
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I may have left this out but mainly because it's my daily and I do 90% of driving on the street. I do autocross at least once a month to really push and experience the limit of the car.

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With mostly street driving you need to be careful with too much negative camber as while great for track and AC it tends to wear the tires unevenly. If you just use camber bolts instead of plates you won't be able to get enough to be harmful.
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Old 10-29-2020, 01:03 PM   #33
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With mostly street driving you need to be careful with too much negative camber as while great for track and AC it tends to wear the tires unevenly. If you just use camber bolts instead of plates you won't be able to get enough to be harmful.
As long as you keep on top of your tires pressures it is not that big of an issue. I have been running between -3 to -3.4 in the front for years with fairly even wear. The rears at around -2.2 to -2.4 wear very evenly. I do rotate every oil change. I have been street driving my car an average of around 15K miles a year since I have owned it.
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Old 10-29-2020, 01:07 PM   #34
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As long as you keep on top of your tires pressures it is not that big of an issue. I have been running between -3 to -3.4 in the front for years with fairly even wear. The rears at around -2.2 to -2.4 wear very evenly. I do rotate every oil change. I have been street driving my car an average of around 15K miles a year since I have owned it.
You run much more than me I'm only at - 2 front and - 1.5 rear. Mostly street driving. What do you keep your pressures at?

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Old 10-29-2020, 01:11 PM   #35
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You run much more than me I'm only at - 2 front and - 1.5 rear. Mostly street driving. What do you keep your pressures at?

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Usually try to keep them 34-36 cold. I can get some pretty big temp differences in a short amount of time. Starting last week my TPMS light started coming on in the mornings but would be off in the day. So I tend to set them a bit higher in the winter. If I run them low it eats the insides quickly, I did that once
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Old 10-29-2020, 01:18 PM   #36
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I may have left this out but mainly because it's my daily and I do 90% of driving on the street. I do autocross at least once a month to really push and experience the limit of the car.
RE71R, A052, RT660, these are street tires, you can daily on them. I have dailied on such tires through track season for years. Also on some "R comp" tires like NT01. Honestly I wouldn't bother with PS4S
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Old 10-29-2020, 01:52 PM   #37
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With mostly street driving you need to be careful with too much negative camber as while great for track and AC it tends to wear the tires unevenly. If you just use camber bolts instead of plates you won't be able to get enough to be harmful.
I wouldn't worry about this. Any tracking you do is gonna even out the wear. At most I'd say set it to track setting for all of track season and then maybe reset to more modest camber for off-season.

I've just run my cars with 3-4 front and 2-3 rear camber all year and not worried about it.

This kind of camber, with modest near-zero toe, might reduce tire life on the street by ~15%. If you track any at all it will even the wear out a lot.

Toe is the real tire-destroyer...
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Old 10-29-2020, 02:20 PM   #38
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With mostly street driving you need to be careful with too much negative camber as while great for track and AC it tends to wear the tires unevenly. If you just use camber bolts instead of plates you won't be able to get enough to be harmful.
I would disagree. Good non-tracked tires for many last for eg. 3 seasons. Five+ trackdays can wear down set. So if tire set due tracking might not last even whole summer, who cares if daily driven at that time that set may see uneven extra 5% wear vs wear you see on track? Despite incomparably longer DD mileage, sedate driving wears little, even on not optimal for such driving alignment. Also people may care for most speed/grip on track with all that competitiveness, and easily give up/compromise during "normal driving". And then there is extra hassle and spending on doing several alignments .. i'm not surprised seeing many driving their dual-used cars on track-oriented alignment just fine on street. I myself switch between alignments .. but only in autumn and spring, it's more for me summer+track vs winter snow/ice alignments, not track vs street.
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Old 02-09-2021, 01:13 PM   #39
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I'll put my 2 cents in.


225/45/17 on a 17x7.5 wheel is going to be completely square for most 225's.

If you've seen the stock Michelin in 215 off the wheel, you'll see the sidewall is flat. When it's on the wheel, it's stretched on the wheel. For whatever reason, Subaru or Toyota decided they wanted stretched tires, possibly for less grip, like how they explained they went with the Primacy HP as the tire choice.

No, it's not "too big" and you won't feel any real change in feedback, given you use the same tire in comparison. Anyone claiming 215's are crisper are probably comparing a stiffer sidewall tire to a less still 225.

Now, if you pinched a 245 on a 7.5", yes you will give up some responsiveness and even have some rollover that might not be great for the track/autocross... but, at least for autocross, nearly 10/10 times the wider tire is faster. Track times might be different based on feedback and how hard you push.

225 is a no brainer on a 7.5" wheel with a +48 offset on these cars. I'd even say 225 is a great on the 7 inch non-PP wheels too.
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Old 02-12-2021, 02:13 PM   #40
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I just upgraded from my stock Turanza EL400 215/45/17 (trash tire) to a Pilot Sport AS4 225/45/17. I wanted to get the Pilot Sports in 215, but 225 was as close as I could get with the sizing they have available right now.

Honestly, I think the 225 looks better. That extra 10mm filled out the wheel wells more, which is essential if you want 17s to look good. I’m not sensitive enough to notice a handling difference between 215 and 225, and I doubt 95% of this forum is either.

I kept the stock wheels btw. TRD 17x7.5 +43.
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Old 02-12-2021, 08:08 PM   #41
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If you've seen the stock Michelin in 215 off the wheel, you'll see the sidewall is flat. When it's on the wheel, it's stretched on the wheel. For whatever reason, Subaru or Toyota decided they wanted stretched tires, possibly for less grip, like how they explained they went with the Primacy HP as the tire choice
In all fairness, the Primacy runs narrow for a 215, I would consider it a 205 in reality. It also uses a weird, almost cantilevered type sidewall, when I measured the bead-to-bead distance on an unmounted Primacy it was something like 6.5 inches. The bead-to-bead on the identically sized PS4S I replaced it with was around 7.5 inches. Measuring various 225/45s I had around work put them all closer to 8". So I would consider most high performance 215s to be square on a 7.5 and most 225s to be slightly pinched. Does it matter in the real world? I'm not going to argue that point, other than to say I'm going to stick with 215s on my daily driver wheels for no reason other than keeping the rolling diameter down.
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Old 02-12-2021, 09:06 PM   #42
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Common reason to decide on 225/45 might be for it often being more common and thus cheaper sizing then 215/45, grip/width/handling aside.
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