08-31-2021, 11:20 AM | #239 |
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Cheaper then I thought it would be. I'd personally just go with the electronics and the 86 Race package which would put me at 8345 before the K motor and other ancillary items.
Decisions, decisions. I had already decided I was sticking with the FA but this has really made it tempting.
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08-31-2021, 11:27 AM | #240 |
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Here is the full package. Price is $10k for everything. I don't need everything, so I think I will be just piecing the kit together from their menu of individual packages, and I am still debating whether I will be using the stock transmission. I might do a CD009 or ZF swap. I didn't want to do that now, but I am considering it, especially because this is just for preorders, as the kits won't ship for 45-60 days, so I have time to sort things out.
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08-31-2021, 12:15 PM | #241 |
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Ordered mine with everything but the haltech stuff and clutch.
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08-31-2021, 12:17 PM | #242 | |
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Then, I still need to source the rest of the components they omitted like the coolant return and feed hoses to the radiator and whatever else. I still need to buy AN lines, IC pipes and the rest of my downpipe, and then I need to get the car tuned, so there is quite a bit more that will put things near the $10k mark, which isn't bad considering I sold my header, supercharger, etc, so I probably will be $5k into the swap components, excluding the price of the turbo setup. They say this is preorders and things won't ship for 45-60 days, but I'm sure that could get pushed back. I might hold off on ordering until people start getting their kits shipped. I might have to bail from this project if they take forever. I'm seeing a lot of Instagram comments of delays on their Miata kits. Unfortunately, I was going off the idea that this kit would be released for preorders in mid Jun not the end of August/start of September, and I was told it would be shipping mid July, which would have given me plenty of time to install this before nursing school started, but now that I am in deep in nursing school, and this will be delayed for another two months (probably more), I honestly don't know what I will do. I might wait to buy things because I won't really have time off until winter break, but I am also borrowing my parents 4th vehicle, which they don't need back, yet I don't feel good using it. My options are to purchase a car in the meantime and to slowly gather parts to finish this project this winter, or I can just sell everything, but I really don't want to sell the car because of everything I have put into it. Decisions, decisions.
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08-31-2021, 12:19 PM | #243 |
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You mean you didn't get the wiring harness or ECU or other electronics? What is your plan?
I had almost sold my stock ECU because they said I wouldn't need it in an email due to the Haltech, but again, they changed things up and we need the stock ECU.
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08-31-2021, 12:25 PM | #244 |
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I was thinking about that too. Just going to a manual rack and living without ABS and running it off Hondata. I just......like abs
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08-31-2021, 12:32 PM | #245 | |
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I would want all systems and stuff.
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08-31-2021, 12:35 PM | #246 | |
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Yeah, it would be no canbus. Would need to mod the engine harness and probably order the ecu from Hondata. I think they are 7-800. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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08-31-2021, 12:59 PM | #247 |
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They said their full kit includes 1.25'' to 1.5'' barbed adapters and that they would be making silicone hoses in the future. I believe they are visible in this larger picture.
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08-31-2021, 01:00 PM | #248 | |
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My abs is already deleted, I order the kpower harness and jump box thing, but I have a hookup at turn14 so I can get the haltech stuff at cost. Plus I want to runt he haltech dash
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08-31-2021, 01:23 PM | #249 |
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I'm considering the CD009 instead. This wasn't my initial plan, but considering I'm delayed then I might as well piece the rest of it together instead of doing it in stages, as I always wanted to do the CD009 eventually. The gearing is pretty close, and it is super strong, so it was my first choice. I've heard bad things about the BMW shifters being sloppy and long, so I don't know how I feel about the ZF option. My transmission has a grinding 5th gear, and is weak for the power I want to make, especially for the torque of a turbo, so maybe it is just best I do this now. Buy once, cry once.
Kpower wants $2,198 for everything, and since I sold my folk and pivot, I would need to buy those, since this doesn't include a hydraulic TOB like they said. I would likely also need to upgrade my clutch because I don't think it will handle the torque, and the transmission might go at any time. I can get a CD009 to K24 adapter, flywheel and driveshaft from TFworks for $1658. I will need to source a CD009, and then I will need to figure out the shifter and transmission mounts. I kind of feel like I could cut and weld on the stock carrier shorter or add to its length, and I think I can weld up some mounts, so that shouldn't be the hard part. I just need to source everything.
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08-31-2021, 01:26 PM | #250 |
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On a side note, does anyone know why aftermarket driveshafts are one piece for the center section and not two piece? Like if someone has a driveshaft that is two pieces then wouldn't it be easer to separate the halves and just make the half to the new transmission? Wouldn't that eliminate a lot of potential high speed vibrations?
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08-31-2021, 01:40 PM | #251 | |
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08-31-2021, 02:17 PM | #252 |
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I actually sold my driveshaft, so if I wanted to use the rear section then I would have to buy it, which isn't worth it unless it was truly better for vibration. There aren't a whole lot of single piece driveshafts out there, so I would imagine vibration reduction is why manufactures prefer two piece designs. I just hear that high speed vibration is common. Obviously it is more expensive to build a two piece unit, which is why I mentioned linking it to a back section. I might call. More curious about opinions.
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