follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Delicious Tuning
Register Garage Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Engine, Exhaust, Transmission

Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-26-2020, 12:50 AM   #1
erebuswarrior
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Drives: 2015 Asphalt BRZ
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 17
Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Do I Have A Built FA20?

I'm looking for tips/info on how I might be able to check if my 2015 Limited BRZ, FA20 was built with forged internal's. I'm looking to go turbo soon and I have some suspicions my FA20 might have been built by previous owner, or it's just a really good engine/internals.

Last edited by erebuswarrior; 03-26-2020 at 02:01 AM.
erebuswarrior is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2020, 01:00 AM   #2
Spuds
The Dictater
 
Spuds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Drives: '13 Red Scion FRS
Location: MD, USA
Posts: 9,427
Thanks: 26,108
Thanked 12,430 Times in 6,146 Posts
Mentioned: 85 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Well, is if it runs it's probably been built by someone. I don't think engines work pre-assembly.


Why do you think your engine was modified by a previous owner?
Spuds is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Spuds For This Useful Post:
Dadhawk (03-26-2020), Sapphireho (03-26-2020), x808drifter (03-26-2020)
Old 03-26-2020, 01:23 AM   #3
humfrz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Drives: 2013 FR-S, white, MT
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 29,866
Thanks: 28,787
Thanked 31,813 Times in 16,424 Posts
Mentioned: 708 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by erebuswarrior View Post
I'm looking for tips/info on how I might be able to check if my FA20 was built. I'm looking to go turbo soon and I have some suspicions my FA20 might have been built by previous owner, or it's just a really good engine/internals.
Well, about the only way to tell is either tear the engine apart or contact the former owner(s).

OR, just boost the shit out of it and see it it flies apart -


humfrz
humfrz is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to humfrz For This Useful Post:
86TOYO2k17 (03-26-2020), B T (03-27-2020), SuperTom (03-27-2020), x808drifter (03-26-2020)
Old 03-26-2020, 01:37 AM   #4
erebuswarrior
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Drives: 2015 Asphalt BRZ
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 17
Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Haha. That's true. My first thought is because I wasn't paying attention to current RPM and downshifted from 3-2 and it overevved to +/- 8500RPM and took it like a boss. No weird noises, no knock, misfire etc and several weeks later of daily redline abuse still no issues. RPM Limiter in tune is set to 7600 btw. I've been under the car a lot and it came with a nice passenger side oil cover plate and all sealant looked fairly new/fresh when I got it. Considering the tuned daily redline abuse its had for the past 2 years 30k miles, I'm surprised my oil Analysis doesn't show more wear and that I haven't broken anything other then throw out bearing.
erebuswarrior is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2020, 01:58 AM   #5
Sapphireho
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Sapphireho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Drives: '15 ultramarine
Location: Idaho
Posts: 13,192
Thanks: 5,451
Thanked 18,240 Times in 8,609 Posts
Mentioned: 155 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Yes you do. I can feel it.
Sapphireho is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Sapphireho For This Useful Post:
Tokay444 (03-26-2020)
Old 03-26-2020, 02:13 AM   #6
Sapphireho
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 
Sapphireho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Drives: '15 ultramarine
Location: Idaho
Posts: 13,192
Thanks: 5,451
Thanked 18,240 Times in 8,609 Posts
Mentioned: 155 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
You mention prior red line abuse that is your guess. And your experience which is nothing. You are a stupid dumb shit. Please go away
Sapphireho is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Sapphireho For This Useful Post:
Tokay444 (03-26-2020), wbradley (03-26-2020)
Old 03-26-2020, 02:35 AM   #7
humfrz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Drives: 2013 FR-S, white, MT
Location: Puyallup, WA
Posts: 29,866
Thanks: 28,787
Thanked 31,813 Times in 16,424 Posts
Mentioned: 708 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sapphireho View Post
You mention prior red line abuse that is your guess. And your experience which is nothing. You are a stupid dumb shit. Please go away
OK, what did I miss -




humfrz
humfrz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2020, 02:39 AM   #8
86TOYO2k17
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Drives: 2017 toyota 86
Location: PNW
Posts: 2,131
Thanks: 336
Thanked 1,188 Times in 781 Posts
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by erebuswarrior View Post
Haha. That's true. My first thought is because I wasn't paying attention to current RPM and downshifted from 3-2 and it overevved to +/- 8500RPM and took it like a boss. No weird noises, no knock, misfire etc and several weeks later of daily redline abuse still no issues. RPM Limiter in tune is set to 7600 btw. I've been under the car a lot and it came with a nice passenger side oil cover plate and all sealant looked fairly new/fresh when I got it. Considering the tuned daily redline abuse its had for the past 2 years 30k miles, I'm surprised my oil Analysis doesn't show more wear and that I haven't broken anything other then throw out bearing.
None of this indicates it was built.

Everyone at minimum redlines multiple times a day, its what the car was built for.

Most manual drivers will downshift into high RPM by accident several times in an engines life with no real issues for 100k+ miles. Especially if you downshift to high rpm off throttle. Chances are an overrev will either cause a failure or not. Meaning it isn’t breaking something 10% and then after 10times its 100% failure. It is either not really doing anything or causing a complete failure so “handling it like a boss” just means nothing happened this time. Now a money shift WOT shift at redline in 3rd to 2nd instead of 4th and rev on throttle at 9500rpm+ is a different story.

Also most built engines have more “issues” then none built oem stock engines, the fact you haven’t had any issues is an indicator it is NOT built.
86TOYO2k17 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to 86TOYO2k17 For This Useful Post:
erebuswarrior (03-26-2020), Lantanafrs2 (03-26-2020), PulsarBeeerz (03-26-2020)
Old 03-26-2020, 03:17 AM   #9
erebuswarrior
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Drives: 2015 Asphalt BRZ
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 17
Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sapphireho View Post
You mention prior red line abuse that is your guess. And your experience which is nothing. You are a stupid dumb shit. Please go away
Someone's an angry drunk lol. Why reply with a degenerate comment showing little intelligence, instead of supplying facts. I simply wanted to know if there's an easy way to tell if it's a built with forged internal's engine. Do you build FA20's? Probably not. I definitely don't, hence why I asked instead of assuming someone has "experience which is nothing." Good luck in the apocalypse with that attitude.
erebuswarrior is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2020, 03:26 AM   #10
erebuswarrior
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Drives: 2015 Asphalt BRZ
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 17
Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17 View Post
None of this indicates it was built.

Everyone at minimum redlines multiple times a day, its what the car was built for.

Most manual drivers will downshift into high RPM by accident several times in an engines life with no real issues for 100k+ miles. Especially if you downshift to high rpm off throttle. Chances are an overrev will either cause a failure or not. Meaning it isn’t breaking something 10% and then after 10times its 100% failure. It is either not really doing anything or causing a complete failure so “handling it like a boss” just means nothing happened this time. Now a money shift WOT shift at redline in 3rd to 2nd instead of 4th and rev on throttle at 9500rpm+ is a different story.

Also most built engines have more “issues” then none built oem stock engines, the fact you haven’t had any issues is an indicator it is NOT built.
Thanks man. I was just curious as to what a forged internal's FA20 might look/perform like before I throw a turbo kit on and get it dyno tuned. I've never accidentally overevved an engine, and after 2+ years owning my BRZ I finally managed to do it on accident. I'm proactive on general maintenance to be on the safe side. However, I've seen people break engines doing less so Planning on 91 6-8psi, E85 with 6 PSI for daily map, E85 8-10 psi for safe power racing (360-380whp), and maybe 4th map as valet in case I need that.
erebuswarrior is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2020, 03:50 AM   #11
Decep
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2017
Drives: 2013 FR-S Series 10
Location: CA
Posts: 1,073
Thanks: 172
Thanked 497 Times in 326 Posts
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Hmmm.. not sure. Try moneyshifting it again. If you only did it once last time, do it twice the next. The next time, do it three times. If you reach 100 moneyshifts without any failures, then, and only then do you have a truly BUILT engine.
__________________
2013 FR-S 10 Series ~75k (SOLD)
RCE SS-1 Coilovers
Corsa Catback
Edelbrock Supercharger installed @ 50k
Decep is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Decep For This Useful Post:
chas3wba0 (03-26-2020), radroach (03-26-2020), Tokay444 (03-26-2020)
Old 03-26-2020, 08:12 AM   #12
86MLR
Senior Member
 
86MLR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Drives: 2002 VX Commodore SS LS1 Auto
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,203
Thanks: 500
Thanked 2,185 Times in 1,111 Posts
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Buy an endoscope on have a look.

Or, yes, from my seatbin the interwebs here in AU I can tell your engine is built and can handle 500 crank hp.

Add more boost now.
__________________
Disclaimer: This post represents the official views of the voices in my head at the time of posting.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=133311
I'm only here for the biscuits
86MLR is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 86MLR For This Useful Post:
NoHaveMSG (03-26-2020)
Old 03-26-2020, 09:50 AM   #13
DarkPira7e
Rust bucket enthusiast
 
DarkPira7e's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Drives: 2013 Turbo Firestorm FRS
Location: Vermont
Posts: 3,932
Thanks: 3,198
Thanked 4,095 Times in 2,045 Posts
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Your best shop is finding old registration records and contacting the previous owner. It costs so much to rebuild an engine with stronger internals that it's not likely someone would just absent mindedly forget to include in any sales pitch.

How often do you see Craigslist adds for a WRX that has a boost controller advertised as "BUILT 400WHP RACE TUNE WRX NEW CLUTCH $3,800OBO"
For a rotting pile of untuned garbage?

Your car is and will have a stock engine for a long time to come, and that's a very good thing.
DarkPira7e is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to DarkPira7e For This Useful Post:
Spuds (03-26-2020)
Old 03-26-2020, 09:52 AM   #14
Tokay444
Anti stance.
 
Tokay444's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Drives: 17 White 860. RCE Tarmac 2. RE-71RS
Location: Not Canada
Posts: 1,629
Thanks: 897
Thanked 956 Times in 546 Posts
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by erebuswarrior View Post
Haha. That's true. My first thought is because I wasn't paying attention to current RPM and downshifted from 3-2 and it overevved to +/- 8500RPM and took it like a boss. No weird noises, no knock, misfire etc and several weeks later of daily redline abuse still no issues. RPM Limiter in tune is set to 7600 btw. I've been under the car a lot and it came with a nice passenger side oil cover plate and all sealant looked fairly new/fresh when I got it. Considering the tuned daily redline abuse its had for the past 2 years 30k miles, I'm surprised my oil Analysis doesn't show more wear and that I haven't broken anything other then throw out bearing.
Oh dear god...:facepalm:
How would you ever get -8500rpm? Negative revs are not a thing.
Tokay444 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Tokay444 For This Useful Post:
Tcoat (03-26-2020)
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
VEX Calgary built an fa20 for me and here are the results olsonpg CANADA 4 11-19-2019 01:09 PM
Built FA20 by Outfront motorsports? rixter145 Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 15 10-20-2019 04:43 PM
Built FA20 by DSport? StraightOuttaCanadaEh Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 26 08-31-2017 04:41 PM
What do you wish was built/available for the FA20 platform but is not? themajesticone Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum 14 07-14-2015 09:36 PM
what oil for BUILT MOTOR BOOSTED FA20 charged86 Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 7 02-19-2014 02:25 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.