Aftermarket front end links

[Bach415]

Long story short, I got whiteline adjustable front end links to replace my current end links due to rubbing on the inner wall. The whiteline bushings seems to be a lot thicker than OEM and the hks ones I had. It's the upper part of the end links connecting to the coilover that is just barely touching the wall. I am wondering is there another adjustable low profile bushing end links anyone can recommend?

The options I know I have after researching are:
1. Raise the car
2. Run less camber
3. Cut OEM end links to make it shorter
4. Find an alternative end links

[FirstWinter]

Regarding aftermarket front endlinks for this platform you don't have many options. I would love if SPL had some, but from what I've seen most people use Whiteline/Perrin. You have any pics of the clearance? How much camber are you running? How much did you lower the car?

I had no issues running the Whiteline endlinks with coilovers with over -3 camber on the front & at ~-1.5" drop.

[strat61caster]

The only ones that look lower profile off the shelf off the top of my head are Racer X

I DIY'ed my rear links with parts from OSH, I want to do the front with a through-bolt as access to the Whiteline links suck and if you can't change sway bar positions quickly it kind of defeats the purpose of an adjustable sway bar imo. I also seem to need to re-tighten them about 3-4x per year which kind of entirely defeats the purpose of those beefy hard to access end links.

Here's an old post from Miata.net about DIY'ing parts from McMaster Carr, Grainger has parts as well and should be a few bucks cheaper.
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=243833
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...&highlight=DIY


there was someone else who made their own endlinks, maybe in the stx thread but I can't find it right now

[Bach415]

Originally Posted by FirstWinter

Regarding aftermarket front endlinks for this platform you don't have many options. I would love if SPL had some, but from what I've seen most people use Whiteline/Perrin. You have any pics of the clearance? How much camber are you running? How much did you lower the car?

I had no issues running the Whiteline endlinks with coilovers with over -3 camber on the front & at ~-1.5" drop.

The clearance for th passenger side is a good amount. It's the driver side that has less than 1/4" of clearance. The camber right now for the driver side is unknown cause I had to unbolt the camber just to even fit in the whiteline. Before it was at 2.8 and it still rubbed the side wall with that little clearance. Car has about half an inch gap between fender and tire.

Originally Posted by strat61caster

The only ones that look lower profile off the shelf off the top of my head are Racer X

I DIY'ed my rear links with parts from OSH, I want to do the front with a through-bolt as access to the Whiteline links suck and if you can't change sway bar positions quickly it kind of defeats the purpose of an adjustable sway bar imo. I also seem to need to re-tighten them about 3-4x per year which kind of entirely defeats the purpose of those beefy hard to access end links.

Here's an old post from Miata.net about DIY'ing parts from McMaster Carr, Grainger has parts as well and should be a few bucks cheaper.
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=243833
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthrea...&highlight=DIY


there was someone else who made their own endlinks, maybe in the stx thread but I can't find it right now

Would it be worth it to diy front end links? I went with whiteline cause every goes with it. And I haven't really seen much people having rubbing issues unless they are really low. I think I'ma raise the car first and see what happens before I actually return it.

[solidONE]

You can always "clearance" the point that makes contact with the endlinks with a ball peen hammer if there is not other solution. "Clearance" as in hammer and put a big enough dent in the area that makes contact then paint it over for rust prevention.

[Jonsey]

I understand SPL is working on a set that should be released soon.

[Clipdat]

SuperPro an option?

[JazzleSAURUS]

I wish kartboy would make their dogbone style/shape front endlinks for this car.

[JazzleSAURUS]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

SuperPro an option?

If superpro could offer that with a bolt-through design that would be great. Those look like nice endlinks. As a resident of New England, I consider endlinks disposable. They get so hard to remove/reinstall if they aren't a bolt-through design, or the hardware isn't really nice. They just require too much work considering nice hardware, or a poly/bolt through design solves all the issues and removes complexity imo.

Example below...

[Pat]

Do they need to be adjustable? If not, have you seen the Perrin option? I think I'll be ordering those in the next day or two.

[FirstWinter]

Originally Posted by Jonsey

I understand SPL is working on a set that should be released soon.

Read about that from late last year supposedly to come out in spring this year but so far nothing

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by JazzleSAURUS

If superpro could offer that with a bolt-through design that would be great. Those look like nice endlinks. As a resident of New England, I consider endlinks disposable. They get so hard to remove/reinstall if they aren't a bolt-through design, or the hardware isn't really nice. They just require too much work considering nice hardware, or a poly/bolt through design solves all the issues and removes complexity imo.

All you need are spherical rod ends and an aluminum tube that's tapped to the right thread, plain nuts from a hardware store, you'd probably be better off DIY'ing yours.

iirc the fronts are 10mm...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/q...0aAhowEALw_wcB

Putting a left thread and a right thread on the rod means you can adjust without unbolting one end, but if it's a 'set it and forget it' type application you could probably save a few bucks just doing right hand threads on both ends...

[JazzleSAURUS]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

All you need are spherical rod ends and an aluminum tube that's tapped to the right thread, plain nuts from a hardware store, you'd probably be better off DIY'ing yours.

iirc the fronts are 10mm...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/q...0aAhowEALw_wcB

Putting a left thread and a right thread on the rod means you can adjust without unbolting one end, but if it's a 'set it and forget it' type application you could probably save a few bucks just doing right hand threads on both ends...

I'm into this...

Good thinking.

[solidONE]

I've actually a set of lower profile endlinks I ran with coilovers with camber plates + slotted lower mounts. Even with the camber adjustment at maximum at the lower mounts (-1.5* est.) at about 25mm of drop and just -2.8* front camber the endlink still made contact. The way I got around this was to raise the front ride height a few mm's and reduce the front camber a bit. It's more of a compromise than a solution.

The best way I've found to avoid contact and still maintain camber setting without having to raise ride height is to maximize the amount of camber from the lower mounts via slotting or camber bolts then do your fine adjustments using the camber plates. The more adjustment you use from camber plates the closer the endlink ends up relative to the frame. If there is a better solution I'm all ears.

Another way, I suppose, is to cut the mounting tab off the strut and weld in a potion where it sits further from the body.. I dont think anybody would want to do that.