Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by Urmyson

Any chance you have this in the 93 oct map?

The only difference is Base timing B. You can just copy from another 93 Octane OFT tune into this tune and save to make it 93 Octane. If not, send me a PM with your email and CAL ID.

[fenton]

Originally Posted by bikecarbfred

Is alternator size crucial?

Is 70amp alternator size good enough?

The FRS is 130A and it is good enough.

Normal recharge is 25A....With the aux charger it goes up to about 50A.

THanks,

[silent runner]

On my little old (22years) Camry, my 80amp. alternater has been more than adequate for the last 19months of running/testing, so far with just the first basic system. Recharges very fast as well. I think I might put in a 120amp alternater, if this one ever gives out, but at 365K, Km. , it's never had a new one yet!

[stevo585]

Originally Posted by fenton

21v-22v on load is completely normal and will happen every time you engage full boost. This is nothing to worry about at all. The batteries cannot hold 24-27v with the amount we are drawing from them.

When it is winter here where i am i can even see 19 to 20v, the cold makes the v drop faster.

If you ever see 16 to 17 that usually means something is not connected correctly.

There is actually no maintenance required, the turbine has such a low RPM(relative to a traditional turbo) that we will never have to service it. Rob has been runing the same controller in his truck for over three years, it is filthy dirty and still works like a charm.

Depending on your location your battery posts could get corroded, cleaning them once a year could be a good idea. If you have a early gen kit it will be important to make sure that the battery posts remain tightened down good. Checking these every couple months is more than enough.

Doesn't this voltage drop mean power is being left on the table? If I ever get my kit I think I'll run some super capacitor batteries.

[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by stevo585

Doesn't this voltage drop mean power is being left on the table? If I ever get my kit I think I'll run some super capacitor batteries.

How so? If you're talking about the motor not getting driven 100% then no, the voltage drop means the motor is drawing the max amount of power and that's what causes the batteries to be drained.


If you mean you want more uptime on the batteries, the AUX charger can help with that. Not sure if super capacitor battery banks will really make much of a difference in this case.

[KoolBRZ]

You could add capacity by putting two higher capacity batteries in place of the three. Then relocate the starter battery to the trunk. The problem is space. You can't get more capacity without using bigger batteries, and that means relocating the starter battery. The other question is how long the controller can handle that much more capacity before it overloads. So, to really add capacity, sit the controller in a cold oil bath container, run the oil through a cooler, squeeze two 700 amp 12 volt batteries side-by-side in the battery tray, relocate the starter battery to the trunk, relocate the ESC to the front bumper, feed it into an FMIC, route to a new blow-through-MAF pipe, and see where that gets you.

[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

and see where that gets you.

Baby, you've got a stew going.


With the new compressor Rob was talking about, efforts like the above might be required though. We're kind of getting away with a good balance of performance for the price due to how its a sweet spot of not requiring major hardware changes like a more beefy FI setup does.

[KoolBRZ]

Consider though, the temperature difference between what the MAF sees and what the temperature actually is at the throttle body. On an NA car these temperatures are the same. On an ESC equipped car they are from 10 to 30 degrees off. I would like to use a blow-through, inter-cooled, MAF setup simply because I could keep the temps down all the way into the manifold.

[Urmyson]

Koolbrz,

Would changes you made to the map carry over to the E85 map? It would be awesome to get better milage out of E85.

[mythhelios1]

I just ran into a problem, that first start in every morning the car die immediately, but at the second start the car idle and run perfectly, I had this problem for 3 days, any advise would help ? and btw i'm running on E85 with OFT tune for ESC

[Sojhinn]

Mix a gallon of 9 1-93 with e85. That will help with the cold starts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mythhelios1]

But it actually not cold here in Tucson, in only like 70F in the past 2 days

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by mythhelios1

But it actually not cold here in Tucson, in only like 70F in the past 2 days

Yeah same here in San Diego. Still needs it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Mix a gallon of 91-93 with e85. That will help with the cold starts.

@mythhelios1

This fixes the problem right up. 1 gal pump gas and the rest e85. Starts will be smooth. Don't worry if you put in a little more than 1 gal pump gas. Up to 2 gals is ok (with the rest being e85) without seeing any performance degradation.