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01-23-2013, 11:44 AM | #1 |
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JL C5-653 mid and tweeter
Planning to keep my system simple, no visible changes for onlookers to notice (keeping factory stereo).
Here is the gear: AudioControl LC7i JL Audio XD500/3 JL Audio C5-653 JL Audio Stealthbox So the biggest unknown for me was installing the 4" midrange drivers in the dash. These things are pretty burly and are .5" bigger than the stock mids. I wanted them mounted, I wanted isolation between the front-wave and the rear-wave coming off the driver and I wanted to make sure I could put the stock system back together (doubt I ever will but). The mids come with these mounting rings, that got me thinking. Did a quick little test fit and everything appeared to fit. First I notched out room for the screws to sit flush in the mounting rings and then I epoxied the #8-32X1/2" screws in place. Once the epoxy was set I taped off the grill from the inside, carefully trimming the tape so it only covered to the edge of the grill opening and glued the mounting ring in place. First pass I just used some glue (shoe goo) at each corner and set the speaker on top to apply some pressure and make sure the ring was set perfectly. Once that was set I went around the entire mounting ring sealing it to the grill. Once that was dry (let it sit for a few days) I trimmed the excess that had ran on to the tape and peeled the tape back. Here is the mid and tweeter mounted up. For the tweeter, the surface mount bracket diameter matches the factory tweeter perfectly. I made 3 little notches in the tweeter bracket similar to the factory tweeter and the JL tweeter just snapped in to place. First test fit in the dash. I was surprised at how close it was to snapping in (after I turned the mid's mounting terminals to the front of the car). I thought for sure it was hitting the hvac duct. I put some blue tape on the duct and around the edges where the factory mid mounts to see where the speaker was rubbing. I did about 3 test fits, trimming off as little as possible each time until the speaker grill properly snapped in to place. You can see highlighted in yellow where I removed the material. It didn't take much and the mounting points for the factory mid are still intact. The hvac duct did not need to be modified. So there it is. I wouldn't expect this to be popular installation style but I figured I'd share. And I know, shoe goo. I used it in a pinch one time fixing some stuff around the house and it seemed to be a perfect fit for this. It is extremely strong, bonds to anything and when it dries it is not 100% rigid. The only drawback is the smell, had the grills out of my car for about a week and a half which was no big deal. I haven't played the system yet, taking my time with the installation and trying to do everything as close to perfect as possible. Only a few hours every other night so it is coming along and should be done by next weekend (waiting for the sub of course). |
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01-23-2013, 12:55 PM | #2 |
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Awesome! I was planning on getting the C5-653 but didn't think I would be able to fit the mid and tweeter in the stock location without major modification. I'm glad they fit because I was thinking I would have to get the C5-650. Thanks for the tutorial.
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01-28-2013, 04:18 PM | #3 |
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01-28-2013, 04:42 PM | #5 |
NASA SpecE30 Racer
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I look forward to seeing your entire build and how the sound quality comes out using the AudioControl LC7i as that is almost exactly the build I want to do on my BRZ.
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01-28-2013, 05:28 PM | #6 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
you need there except for leads from the rear speakers but you don't have to go far for those. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to sure74 For This Useful Post: | tripjammer (02-11-2013) |
01-29-2013, 12:00 PM | #7 |
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Subscribed.
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01-29-2013, 08:21 PM | #8 |
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So how does it sound? And what do you think is from the drivers vs the different amps?
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02-08-2013, 09:42 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
I am waiting for nicer weather (not likely) or use of a garage so I can get that done. On the plus side everything else is wired up. Tapping the rear speakers with 16 Gauge. Passenger side. I tried to follow the factory wiring as neatly as possible. Drivers side speaker wire tap, along with the wires running up front. 12 Gauge for the C5-653 set, RJ-11 wire for the amplifier's remote level control and the video wire for the reverse camera. The XD500/3, opposite the factory amp location. It is grounded to one of the rear seat bolts, paint removed and in direct contact with the chassis. The power wire runs through what was formally the noise generator and down the passenger side to the amplifier. The 4 Gauge wire fit perfectly and I maintained the factory seal on the firewall. Also, I ran a new 4 Gauge ground from the battery to the chassis. That wire is about 12" long. There is a nice little channel that allowed just enough room to run the wires across the back of the car. Nice and neat. The crossovers are pretty big for the C5-653 set. The left side crossover fit above the driver side kick panel pretty well. The right side crossover had no chance of fitting above the passenger side kick so it lives behind/under the stereo. I'll take pictures of the doors when I get to wire them up. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to sure74 For This Useful Post: | tripjammer (02-11-2013) |
02-08-2013, 02:58 PM | #10 |
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Nice looking setup, hope we can get that Stealthbox for you pretty soon!
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02-11-2013, 11:38 AM | #11 |
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02-22-2013, 04:00 PM | #14 |
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Yeah bro, did you get everything done to it yet?
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The Following User Says Thank You to tripjammer For This Useful Post: | TouchMyHonda (04-08-2013) |
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