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Old 09-10-2020, 11:54 AM   #3865
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I've got a D-Box to get rid of if anyone wants it
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Old 09-10-2020, 12:52 PM   #3866
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You can hook up a pressure regulator to the line coming from the tank fuel pump.
For the injectors I said easy as I was thinking the port injectors. @ 160k the direct injectors could also be an issue I'd think.. so I'd have to look into how to change these. If they're not new I wouldn't bother checking them.. I'd just replace which is why I said easy, because the port injectors are easy to change.

PCV valve.. if you are going to change and you get your hands on the STI WRX then ok. I think it's better in this application. But test first. Just disconnect and plug temporarily at the SC conn, hose and port on the SC. You should be able to start and idle to see if that improves. Don't drive it around like that.

I have a Dbox, but not sure it's worth it. Mike from Couterspace has noted they're kind of pointless since the problem they attempt to resolve can be tuned out now. But I've also seen my logs compared to those without it and my high rpm MAP voltage flutter is a lot less.

You've done a lot of the other.. my main concern would be injectors and their seals. Least my first thing.
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Old 09-10-2020, 05:53 PM   #3867
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I would not, just wondering if you did because the harness for the Dbox goes to the MAP sensor and people have had issues with it.

Can you get a log?

Yea here is a log its pretty short though and I missed checking off a few parameters. I did hit the clutch so ignore that input to.


https://datazap.me/u/brandonblt2/rou...&data=28-31-43


Here is another log the next day with a cold start. Seemed to run fine here.


https://datazap.me/u/brandonblt2/idl...?log=0&data=31
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Old 09-11-2020, 03:03 PM   #3868
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I'm attempting to tune it out map fluctuations with them right now, D-Box is our next step
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Old 09-11-2020, 05:43 PM   #3869
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Brandon I've looked at the first log.. keep in mind I'm not a cert mechanic or ecutek tuner and some other guys who are people like Mike and even Steven may could tell you more.

The first is 18 sec startup in warm up mode. It looks like you have Racerom Ecutek map switching with the flat foot shifting, blips, and other features available. So my first question is if it runs long enough after start up and goes into closed loop mode does it get better or still do this? Everything looks fairly normal VVT enables, fuel rail pressure mpa is over 10 which is certainly high enough curious if this would drop in closed loop. MAF voltage looks good. Battery voltage drops to 12 but that might fix itself in closed loop. Must of been hot when you did this but temps look ok but warmer than ambient temp and may have just run before this. Until I look at AFR is where I see something. Look at actual compared to target.. super rich when rpms start to rise and fall What would cause this.. well fuel injectors not working right would.. but I will have to look at the other log for a bit. This one is not enough to make that point but it does hint toward it.. I'll look at the other. Notice its start to rise at 14.7 which is fine and most of the tunes in cold start will raise the rpms .. but as yours starts to raise it goes to around 10 and holds even in the rpm oscillation as they come down, which these cars are notorious for going lean not rich when coming off throttle.. like to around 20 but not here.. stays quite a bit rich.

2nd log:

Over 2 minute idle.. engine goes through warm up into closed loop. CL status stays below 30 .. not sure that matters if the tuner isn't using Racerom for full load closed loop fuel correction. Also when when you go WOT this probably changes. See this link for info https://ecutek.zendesk.com/hc/articl...%20RaceROM.pdf

Fuel pressure mpa do come down in closed loop still I think tiny bit high but I don't think it's too much certainly not a lack of pressure and so fuel pumps shouldn't be an issue at the moment. I can see short term FT now in closed loop and guess what consistently for rich to nearl -18.. which is over -10 and more than you'd generally like to see but there's also a tuner aspect to that. But AFR should be able to be maintained in some way and here it is being maintained and the computer is correcting. In this case there is not RPM oscillation in warm up or in the closed loop section, go figure as this looks pretty good and seems to have fixed itself. If it is the injectors then apparently after some running and the computer does some compensating it works itself out. I don't want my computer to have short term fuel trim of -18 to fix this problem unless it is by tuner design (and I'm not sure that is in this case).

I don't like throwing a part at a problem without some data.. but you do have some here.. Deatschworks OEM port injectors can be had for $300 for 4. Probably require another retune but maybe not with OEM spec flow. Even if the direct injectors are worn good port injectors still might help it. It's a gamble and I would run all this by your tuner as well.. see what they think. I'm surprised you haven't run it by them yet, but it's also not a huge investment in the scheme to keep this thing running decent and it won't hurt it replacing 160k mile injectors on a car that is clearly running rich for some reason at idle.

Last edited by AKITA; 09-11-2020 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 09-11-2020, 11:54 PM   #3870
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Brandon I've looked at the first log.. keep in mind I'm not a cert mechanic or ecutek tuner and some other guys who are people like Mike and even Steven may could tell you more.

The first is 18 sec startup in warm up mode. It looks like you have Racerom Ecutek map switching with the flat foot shifting, blips, and other features available. So my first question is if it runs long enough after start up and goes into closed loop mode does it get better or still do this? Everything looks fairly normal VVT enables, fuel rail pressure mpa is over 10 which is certainly high enough curious if this would drop in closed loop. MAF voltage looks good. Battery voltage drops to 12 but that might fix itself in closed loop. Must of been hot when you did this but temps look ok but warmer than ambient temp and may have just run before this. Until I look at AFR is where I see something. Look at actual compared to target.. super rich when rpms start to rise and fall What would cause this.. well fuel injectors not working right would.. but I will have to look at the other log for a bit. This one is not enough to make that point but it does hint toward it.. I'll look at the other. Notice its start to rise at 14.7 which is fine and most of the tunes in cold start will raise the rpms .. but as yours starts to raise it goes to around 10 and holds even in the rpm oscillation as they come down, which these cars are notorious for going lean not rich when coming off throttle.. like to around 20 but not here.. stays quite a bit rich.

2nd log:

Over 2 minute idle.. engine goes through warm up into closed loop. CL status stays below 30 .. not sure that matters if the tuner isn't using Racerom for full load closed loop fuel correction. Also when when you go WOT this probably changes. See this link for info https://ecutek.zendesk.com/hc/articl...%20RaceROM.pdf

Fuel pressure mpa do come down in closed loop still I think tiny bit high but I don't think it's too much certainly not a lack of pressure and so fuel pumps shouldn't be an issue at the moment. I can see short term FT now in closed loop and guess what consistently for rich to nearl -18.. which is over -10 and more than you'd generally like to see but there's also a tuner aspect to that. But AFR should be able to be maintained in some way and here it is being maintained and the computer is correcting. In this case there is not RPM oscillation in warm up or in the closed loop section, go figure as this looks pretty good and seems to have fixed itself. If it is the injectors then apparently after some running and the computer does some compensating it works itself out. I don't want my computer to have short term fuel trim of -18 to fix this problem unless it is by tuner design (and I'm not sure that is in this case).

I don't like throwing a part at a problem without some data.. but you do have some here.. Deatschworks OEM port injectors can be had for $300 for 4. Probably require another retune but maybe not with OEM spec flow. Even if the direct injectors are worn good port injectors still might help it. It's a gamble and I would run all this by your tuner as well.. see what they think. I'm surprised you haven't run it by them yet, but it's also not a huge investment in the scheme to keep this thing running decent and it won't hurt it replacing 160k mile injectors on a car that is clearly running rich for some reason at idle.
Thanks for the analysis. Really helpful. It might be running rich because I did just reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery when I was poking around the engine. I had only driven about 20 miles or so when I took those logs so the ecu may have still been learning fuel trims. I actually like when it runs richer there is less throttle lag and the car feels peppier and quicker off the line. After a few more miles the throttle does dull so I'm guessing it stops running as rich. One thing I did notice is even after letting the car warmup for say 2 minutes of idle. Turning it off and restarting it engine rpms started around 1500 rpm and held there far longer than when it used to. I'm going to run a few test this weekend to checkout a few things before dropping money on parts.
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Old 09-12-2020, 12:09 PM   #3871
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details.. cool... I'd put 200 miles on it .. relog the idle see if STFT improves , I would do a 10 min cruise log too (although cooler ambient temps will affect results).. if it does.. like to to the range -10 to 0 , then you know it's headed in the right direction. I agree on 93 oct probably good to be a little rich but -18 seems a little much
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Old 09-12-2020, 02:57 PM   #3872
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details.. cool... I'd put 200 miles on it .. relog the idle see if STFT improves , I would do a 10 min cruise log too (although cooler ambient temps will affect results).. if it does.. like to to the range -10 to 0 , then you know it's headed in the right direction. I agree on 93 oct probably good to be a little rich but -18 seems a little much
I did forget to mention that I do have an occasional CEL along with the traction control light popping on because of my clockspring. I removed the steering wheel to recover it right before I started having this major idle issues. Is anything related to the clockspring that could possibly lead to a rougher idle? I'm going to replace it regardless since I've somehow damaged it even tho I was extremely careful with it. 😓
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Old 09-12-2020, 03:42 PM   #3873
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check the codes and post em or look em up
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Old 09-13-2020, 12:22 AM   #3874
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PSA:

if you're getting weird negative LTFTs check the screws on the air filter housing.. All of mine were loose and one was missing.

Replaced the one and tightened the rest and the issue went away.
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Old 09-13-2020, 01:01 AM   #3875
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check the codes and post em or look em up

Its just a B1801 code which is directly related to an airbag short/ clockspring short.
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Old 09-13-2020, 11:40 AM   #3876
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Yea here is a log its pretty short though and I missed checking off a few parameters. I did hit the clutch so ignore that input to.


https://datazap.me/u/brandonblt2/rou...&data=28-31-43


Here is another log the next day with a cold start. Seemed to run fine here.


https://datazap.me/u/brandonblt2/idl...?log=0&data=31
You're running really rich when port injectors are on.

Tag me if you need support next time, or it's really just a matter of luck if I see your post or not.

Are you on stock injectors + Edelbrock tune?
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Old 09-14-2020, 08:24 AM   #3877
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You're running really rich when port injectors are on.

Tag me if you need support next time, or it's really just a matter of luck if I see your post or not.

Are you on stock injectors + Edelbrock tune?
Yea I'm on stock injectors and I'm actually tuned by Delicious Tuning. Not sure if you saw my other post but I did recently reset the ecu because I was messing around with the clockspring and unplugged the battery. So I'm pretty sure the car is still learning fuel trims when I took those logs. Looking at my old logs it's normally around -10. Here is my log from when the car was running smoothly after learning fuel trims. https://datazap.me/u/brandonblt2/idl...?log=0&data=31
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Old 09-14-2020, 05:04 PM   #3878
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Yea I'm on stock injectors and I'm actually tuned by Delicious Tuning. Not sure if you saw my other post but I did recently reset the ecu because I was messing around with the clockspring and unplugged the battery. So I'm pretty sure the car is still learning fuel trims when I took those logs. Looking at my old logs it's normally around -10. Here is my log from when the car was running smoothly after learning fuel trims. https://datazap.me/u/brandonblt2/idl...?log=0&data=31
Can you get me a log of your car cruising in 3rd gear at about 30mph for about 30 seconds? Nice and steady cruise.
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