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12-31-2020, 03:30 AM | #1 |
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Its a laundry list....
So I had a laundry list of CEL codes that came up
P0021 P0024 P0014 P0011 P0420 P0018 P0016 P000B P000D So after looking into it and going down the rabbit hole I switched the VVT solenoid around and it turns out I had 3/4 bad solenoids. Following what I have read on the forms and other sites I order 4/4 solenoids with new rings. If it goes away then it was all just bad VVT solenoids. Considering I was running 5W30 per turbo kit recommendation but also in very cold climate it seemed like that was going to be it. I install them and do an oil change clear the code and drive it around a little bit. Then the codes come up P0016 P219A I check the wiring to see if I can find heat damage or breakage and I don't see anything. I drive it around again and the code changes to just P0011 I can switch the vvts around again but this time they are all brand new. Or should I take the full engine harness out and go through it more thoroughly ? Is it possible to get a cam position reading without a subaru dealership level scan tool ? Or is my best bet after checking the harness to manually reset the timing ? From what I read that some people have replaced harness/engines and it is an issue. Some even replace the ECU and its still a problem. Now its a turbo kit that sits by the battery/firewall but I have pretty good heat shielding around all the wiring, the up pipe/down pipe, turbo blanket, the battery, wiring going to fused box, wiring going to high pressure injector controller and starter. I even have some extra heat shielding on that as well. |
12-31-2020, 10:59 AM | #2 | ||
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P0011 is a "mechanical" code, not an "electrical" code.
It is mechanical in that the diagnostic test can only run if the monitor for the electrical circuit passes. Quote:
Quote:
Chances are, if that doesn't fix it, you'll have to break the seal on that engine and go look inside. |
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12-31-2020, 11:53 AM | #3 |
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When I changed the oil I used a bottle of engine flush is that different ? Should I have used seafoam or ATF ? I also noticed that the spring ball valve in the middle was kind of crusty when I pushed in a couple of times on 3 of them and 1 was a lot more difficult. That was the pass intake cam. The cam that is throwing the code now iiuc.
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12-31-2020, 12:11 PM | #4 |
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Engine flush is the right thing, so it's safe to assume that step is taken care of.
If you've got an obvious difference in the oil control valves and the different one is the same that's throwing the code, it's not far fetched to assume you've got a failed sprocket. |
12-31-2020, 01:38 PM | #5 | ||
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Quote:
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The Following User Says Thank You to NoHaveMSG For This Useful Post: | irax (12-31-2020) |
01-04-2021, 06:51 PM | #6 |
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So.... the CEL went away before I could order the new cam sprocket and timing chain. It's now on full power again. And all I did was let it sit and then idle it. Maybe the solenoids I replaced was the fix and that I didnt let it idle long enough to clear out the oil. I'm going to baby it and keep an eye on it. I really appreciate the help!
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01-04-2021, 11:02 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
I too have replaced all four of those oil control solenoids with the updated parts on my FR-S due to the seals leaking, (you did make sure Subaru sold you the updated parts mentioned in the technical service bulletin, right?) See this link here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...01#post3367301 And If I were in your situation, I would now run it for a few hundred miles and then pull those solenoids back off to check those valve mechanisms for "springy-ness" again and to make sure the crusty build up is gone, then I would change the oil one more time using Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 ILSAC GF-6A made from natural gas. And since you're boosted, change the oil and filter at least every 2,500 miles from here on. There's nothing worse for modern engines than failure to properly change the oil, which is what causes that crusty buildup that you're experiencing, and when you add boost to an engine that wasn't originally designed for boost, always double the frequency of oil changes. I hope that solves your issues permanently. Keep us posted. |
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01-04-2021, 11:25 PM | #8 | |
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01-05-2021, 01:13 AM | #9 |
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So new development. When the car is cold it is still acting like vvt sensor is failing but not throwing a code. It still has power and is willing to rev but when I come to a stop is dies. But if the car is FULLY warmed up (mid point) it's perfectly fine. Still no code but maybe the cam sprocket is still bad?
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The Following User Says Thank You to irax For This Useful Post: | NoHaveMSG (01-05-2021) |
01-08-2021, 02:01 AM | #10 |
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So final update: I have rod knock after everything finally was good. Just fml
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The Following User Says Thank You to irax For This Useful Post: | DarkPira7e (01-08-2021) |
01-08-2021, 07:55 AM | #11 |
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Sorry to hear. Do not bother rebuilding this one. Get a used longblock. Trust me please
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Turbo FR-S Build - Build Thread
JDL EL Recirc manifold, Boostlab BL58x Turbo w/ T51R, 17x9 ARC-8, IAG block |
The Following User Says Thank You to DarkPira7e For This Useful Post: | irax (01-09-2021) |
01-08-2021, 12:19 PM | #12 |
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Damn that sucks.
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01-09-2021, 03:05 AM | #13 | |
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Half off... so I might as well. At least i can get financing lol. |
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01-09-2021, 09:17 AM | #14 | |
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I've looked at GCH before. They seemed a little too backyard for me to spend so much. They might be good, but something felt off when I was considering them
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Turbo FR-S Build - Build Thread
JDL EL Recirc manifold, Boostlab BL58x Turbo w/ T51R, 17x9 ARC-8, IAG block |
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