Built engine cost?

[Sportsguy83]

I haven't had one built, but to get a built block and heads from Fullblown (or MAP Performance or similar) is just about $6K, + shipping cost + cost of removing your engine and sending it as a core (plus the money you lost because you didn't sell it), plus shipping again, plus whatever money is added to assembling the built engine, it all adds up to close to $10K.

After that, you're still left to deal with the glass trans, whose packages to build start at $6K (only to be rated at 350 tq), and can go as high as $20+K, or need to buy a T56 or similar plus the fab work to get it mated to this motor, plus custom driveshaft, custom mount, etc... add another minimum $6K....

Basically, you add all of that money, plus the money you can get selling your your motor, trans and other mods you have bought that work, and you can swap an LS or any other motor to the car and make more power and have it more reliable...

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by x808drifter

If money was no object and you wanted NA....

http://www.junauto.co.jp/sale/jun-sy.../index.en.html

I'd buy this thing in a heart beat if money was no object.

[celek]

Originally Posted by jsimon7777

Cool story, Tom Celek.

As it was said in jest your Selleck reference shows impressive cognitive accuracy ,dating yourself.

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by celek

As it was said in jest your Selleck reference shows impressive cognitive accuracy ,dating yourself.

via Imgflip Meme Generator

[celek]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

via Imgflip Meme Generator

Too much but thats not the point

[Dadhawk]

Originally Posted by celek

Too much but thats not the point

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Xoxdr0m2os"]Burt Reynolds Mustache.3gp - YouTube[/ame]

[choi0706]

Originally Posted by wise345

Say just rods and Pistons. I'm more curious as to labor costs. Part costs are easy to find out

ask DD performance research,they're in tx.

[kch]

Originally Posted by wise345

Say just rods and Pistons. I'm more curious as to labor costs. Part costs are easy to find out

Originally Posted by choi0706

ask DD performance research,they're in tx.

Or PRT Performance in Dallas (Lewisville). They're much closer to him, and have done several FA20s.

[CounterSpace Garage]

Pretty inexpensive if using basic forged components and simply labor. It gets more expensive if you are looking for more experienced builders and better parts.

[xkalelx]

Originally Posted by moto-mike

As long as you keep a short block clean, QC all the parts, and take your time--they are actually pretty easy to do. Not the first time, but once you've done a few it is very routine. Clean, inspect, assemble, disassemble and check clearances, file rings, then reassemble. Really straight forward. Doing a flat 4 long block involves many alignment pins, two timing chains, head/lash clearances, resealing what must be about a hundred yards of silicone, then the tally of the multiple o-rings, VVT filters, pesky rear main seals, making sure all machine work is 100%...it's a lot more work. There's a reason most shops don't do whole long blocks--its much more liability.

Excited to be sending you 2 blocks after Christmas (well, one and a half lol). I havent been following motor data on the forums lately, are there any updates on fixing the rocker axles that can slide out and punch holes in rocker covers? Do you guys currently do anything to modify them?

TIA

Sam

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by CounterSpace Garage

Pretty inexpensive if using basic forged components and simply labor. It gets more expensive if you are looking for more experienced builders and better parts.

Can you do a pessimist guess how much would cost? Asking because i want to build an engine capable of 8k-9k rpms reliable and use it daily. Im not looking crazy hp's

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by Teseo

Can you do a pessimist guess how much would cost? Asking because i want to build an engine capable of 8k-9k rpms reliable and use it daily. Im not looking crazy hp's

You can't push this engine past 8200 reliably.

Oil pressure is the bottleneck, and can't be solved without a major redesign.

If you're not looking for more than 300-350 whp leave the engine stock. Do your clutch.

If you have a rocker failure at those RPM's, replace with a '14 or later engine.

You need boost or the powerband fails hard after 7400. Even then it's gonna be downhill after 7k.

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by xkalelx

Excited to be sending you 2 blocks after Christmas (well, one and a half lol). I havent been following motor data on the forums lately, are there any updates on fixing the rocker axles that can slide out and punch holes in rocker covers? Do you guys currently do anything to modify them?

TIA

Sam

Awesome! We just finished up our new engine room so we can keep up with the demand.

As for the rocker axles, we have never seen that happen. What we've seen is rockers being ejected completely intact. This is a result of valve float and not anything deficient with the rocker assembly. When the valve spring cannot keep up you end up getting a large amount of valve lash and the rocker is no longer held in place. Then if you get unlucky it will be ejected. In theory if that happens enough the rocker axle may start to walk out of the rocker itself, which is maybe what happened in that isolated case we keep hearing about on the internet. But the solution is to use adequate spring pressure, and not necessarily do anything to the rocker.

[xkalelx]

Outstanding @moto-mike. Will definitely be selecting good springs to upgrade to as well as the oil pump as you mentioned earlier in the thread.