Which Miata to buy?

[fourvalleys]

I agree with @strat61caster.

I think you should aim for something in good condition, straight with good paint and probably 100,000 miles or so. And a good soft top. You might pay $4000-$4500 for a NA that meets these criteria, but it will more than make up the difference from most $2000 NA's. For a little bit more, you can probably get an NB and I'd recommend the same criteria.

There's very little that you should "look for" specifically when shopping. Buy from someone who knows the maintenance history (especially timing belt/water pump), or be ready to do those jobs when you buy it if they don't know the history. The soft top is a major pain to change yourself (and will cost $300 in parts + $300 or more in installation for a decent one), but most other mechanical jobs are pretty straightforward and can be done in a weekend without too much swearing.

I miss my 96 M-Edition but unfortunately I didn't have any place to park it. I sold it for dirt cheap last month and miss it terribly.

[DarkSunrise]

When I was looking into convertibles, the conclusion I came to was that for a dual-purpose track/street car, you're better off going with a coupe. Only three exceptions to that:

1) You're willing to drive with a rollbar and no helmet on the street, potentially endangering yourself (and a passenger).

2) You pick a car that has an approved OEM rollbar (i.e., S2000 or Boxster) and you're short enough to clear broomstick.

3) You pick a car that has an approved OEM rollbar and can be fitted with an easily removeable rollbar extender (Boxster + BK rollbar extender).

And obviously if your local tracks/clubs don't allow convertibles, you'll have to stick with a coupe.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by fourvalleys

You might pay $4000-$4500 for a NA that meets these criteria, but it will more than make up the difference from most $2000 NA's. For a little bit more, you can probably get an NB and I'd recommend the same criteria.

I'm starting to notice that early NB's are starting to cross prices with early NA's when comparing equivalent quality cars, I've seen a couple '99-'01 Miata's around $4k with the worst feature being the paint or some needed maintenance.

But I completely agree, $2k can get you a car that might get you home but it could be a nightmare after that, it really isn't that expensive to pick one up that doesn't need very much other than routine maintenance.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by fourvalleys

The NA Miata (89-97) is one of the easiest cars out there to work on. It's well-designed and doesn't have a ton of crazy electronic bits to fail. It's light and a ton of fun to drive hard. Plus, it'll take the abuse and when it doesn't parts are abundant and cheap. They're easy to strip and quick at the track for what they are.

I prefer the 1.8L in the 94-97 models over the earlier 1.6L, but you have plenty of options with or without AC and Power Steering, power windows, or a Torsen LSD. The M-Edition models are especially well-optioned. Power windows are the one option I'd say to maybe avoid as the regulators fail and are about $80-100 each, but don't base your car decision off of this. Also don't get an automatic, obviously.

If you do get a 1.6L, watch out for the short-nose crank wobble. Some will already have it addressed, but I feel like for someone concerned about learning, that's an issue it's better to avoid altogether.

The NB (99-05) is almost as pleasant to work on, but it does have a few more electronic components. It's a great car.

The NC is nicer inside and somehow barely gained any size or weight. It's much more expensive and a bit less approachable for a novice, though. Also, that power hardtop... yum.

Can you get a hard top for any of them, though?

[Skurj]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

Can you get a hard top for any of them, though?

I believe you can buy a hardtop for all of them.

[tahdizzle]

I'd buy the one that looks like a Tic Tac

[fourvalleys]

Originally Posted by SirBrass

Can you get a hard top for any of them, though?

An OEM hardtop will fit both the NA and NB. They're pretty expensive - a good-condition OEM hardtop will go for about $1000 these days. They're very worth it if that's what you want, though. Aftermarket tops generally don't fit quite right (ask me how I know), and anything with broken glass is an awful idea (ask me how I know). Make sure you get locking side latches. Even though some are very expensive, $150-200 on locks will save someone from stealing your $1000 top in 15 seconds flat.

Personally, I think hardtops aren't worth it. They're not hard to take on and off, but it's not really a one-person job unless you have a pulley. I had one and I missed open-top driving a lot because I had no place to store the top if I took it off.

[Miniata]

I've had my '90 Miata (the NA with 1.6L) for eight years now. Love the thing. I've driven a couple of 1.8L NAs and an NB (and NC too) and it would be hard to go wrong with any of them. I've autocrossed mine quite a bit, but never done any track days with it, although I did sell my hard top to a friend so he could do track days with it. I think the sweet spot for price, modability, ease of working on it yourself, and performance potential is a '94-95 1.8L NA Miata. The 96-97 NA Miatas had OBDII which has some advantages and disadvantages.

[SirBrass]

Originally Posted by fourvalleys

An OEM hardtop will fit both the NA and NB. They're pretty expensive - a good-condition OEM hardtop will go for about $1000 these days. They're very worth it if that's what you want, though. Aftermarket tops generally don't fit quite right (ask me how I know), and anything with broken glass is an awful idea (ask me how I know). Make sure you get locking side latches. Even though some are very expensive, $150-200 on locks will save someone from stealing your $1000 top in 15 seconds flat.

Personally, I think hardtops aren't worth it. They're not hard to take on and off, but it's not really a one-person job unless you have a pulley. I had one and I missed open-top driving a lot because I had no place to store the top if I took it off.

For a dedicated track car that is street legal, sounds like it's worth it. For day to day driving and cruising with some occasional track, I'm keeping the BRZ.

[mx5 2nr]

Lots of great info on here from previous owners & I echo just about everything that's been said thus far...

Depending on how mechinically inclined you are - don't be scared off by the $2k Miata's. They are incredibly easy & cheap to work on. I have friends that have never done anything mechanical ever that have purchased beat up NA's. They are having no issues doing fixes themselves as they encounter them. There are so many detailed write up's on the 'net that you'd be hard pressed to not find what you need. But with all that said, try and find the cleanest car you can afford...

On the hardtop issue, I echo fourvalleys opinion... If you do happen to get a hardtop, definitely get the Beatrush side latches & look up RevLimiter's how-to on locking it up. As far as removing it - it's not difficult, and it's a one person operation for an average person.

[fourvalleys]

It's a one person operation to remove a hardtop by yourself if you have long arms and a strong chest. You're just taking a pretty huge risk of scratching your trunk if you do it by yourself. I have average length arms and a strong chest and I wasn't ever comfortable doing it myself. No problem carrying it or moving it on my own but the way you have to set it on the car or take it off was too awkward for me to even think about doing it alone.

And I agree on the $2k miatas, but if you're looking to go straight to the track, get something reliable so you don't have to worry as much about the little things. Just my opinion.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by mx5 2nr

Depending on how mechinically inclined you are - don't be scared off by the $2k Miata's. They are incredibly easy & cheap to work on. I have friends that have never done anything mechanical ever that have purchased beat up NA's. They are having no issues doing fixes themselves as they encounter them.

That's fair, but a $2k Miata probably has a decent to-do list before I'd feel safe pushing it or relying on it, belts, brakes, tires, full fluid flush, maybe a cracked windshield or some terrible paint, a leaky top, wrecked clutch, balky trans, garbage seats, an electrical gremlin, a bad bearing, water pump and any other number of things that can go bad on a car 20+ years old and you'd be well over the price of buying a clean one that was well maintained or low mileage.

Of course if it's a track rat you're not going to bother much but if you'd like to take a pretty lady on a weekend trip it might be worth considering spending the extra cash up front.

[mx5 2nr]

Originally Posted by fourvalleys

It's a one person operation to remove a hardtop by yourself if you have long arms and a strong chest. You're just taking a pretty huge risk of scratching your trunk if you do it by yourself. I have average length arms and a strong chest and I wasn't ever comfortable doing it myself. No problem carrying it or moving it on my own but the way you have to set it on the car or take it off was too awkward for me to even think about doing it alone.

That's a completely valid point, I am a bit bigger than most (6'2" with a 6'2" wingspan), so I could have an advantage over most in that regard.

Originally Posted by strat61caster

That's fair, but a $2k Miata probably has a decent to-do list before I'd feel safe pushing it or relying on it, belts, brakes, tires, full fluid flush, maybe a cracked windshield or some terrible paint, a leaky top, wrecked clutch, balky trans, garbage seats, an electrical gremlin, a bad bearing, water pump and any other number of things that can go bad on a car 20+ years old and you'd be well over the price of buying a clean one that was well maintained or low mileage.

Of course if it's a track rat you're not going to bother much but if you'd like to take a pretty lady on a weekend trip it might be worth considering spending the extra cash up front.

Great point as well, i was under the impression that the OP was looking for something more akin to building up for track days. I'd always say look for the nicest, cleanest car you can afford, but even then when looking at a used car (especially one that's 7+ years old) always be prepared to replace belts, hoses, fluids, brakes, etc; as they are probably not going to live up to expectations...

[fourvalleys]

Originally Posted by mx5 2nr

when looking at a used car (especially one that's 7+ years old) always be prepared to replace belts, hoses, fluids, brakes, etc; as they are probably not going to live up to expectations...

Agreed - If the previous owner of a Miata can't give you receipts or proof of work being done, I feel like at the minimum you should be replacing your timing belt, water pump, valve cover gasket, accessory belts, plugs/wires, ALL fluids, and brakes (if you're going to the track). You should also be inspecting the condition of any other wear parts such as tires and hoses. It'll cost you a few hundred bucks (maybe $500-$600) and a weekend of work, but the peace of mind is worth it. A good timing belt kit will usually include all of the gaskets and belts you need.

All of this is easy work, too. Like mentioned above, there are plenty of step-by-step guides (with photos!) online, or you could buy the Enthusiast's Manual (which is super helpful and written more informally).