How do I remove a camber plate from an MCS coilover?

[colobrio]

Howdy. Last winter, I picked up a '13 BRZ with MCS coilovers (2-way non-remote) and Vorshlag camber plates. I love the suspension, but it rattles quite a bit. I figured out the problem is the front springs have an OEM internal diameter, but the perches on the coilovers are smaller diameter. So, I'd like to replace the front springs with some the proper diameter. I've got the strut assemblies removed, but cannot figure out how to remove the adjuster knob and camber plates, so that I can replace the springs. I sure it's obvious to those of you that have been doing this longer, but I'm still pretty new to doing my own wrenching, and am stumped. Any help appreciated.

[Joon525]

My guess is that there's a allen key'd grub screw in the hole I just pointed to in the attached photo.
If there is, loosen/remove it and I bet the green knob slides off with a little effort.

Then proceed with the standard way of disassembly for the unit (removing the 2 nuts under the green knob after releasing tension on the spring).

By the way, your picture shows the tension is released on the spring. Maybe you did this before taking the picture but in case you did NOT do this....this could be reason for the rattling you hear.

[e1_griego]

There is a set screw that holds the green adjuster knob to the shock. Remove that set screw an pull the knob off.

After that, you need to undo those two nuts on the top of the shock shaft and then you can pull the camber plate up and off.

[colobrio]

Originally Posted by e1_griego

There is a set screw that holds the green adjuster knob to the shock. Remove that set screw an pull the knob off.

After that, you need to undo those two nuts on the top of the shock shaft and then you can pull the camber plate up and off.

Awesome, thanks! I'll get back to this afternoon.

[e1_griego]

The early remote doubles were said to be a little noisier. My rear shocks (MCS 2WR) do make a bit of noise here and there.

You can add a zero rate spring to just take up the slack between the spring and the tophat, too

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=1878

[ls1ac]

As said above, if you did not take the load off the springs , that could be the problem. Put a slight load on the springs and see if the noise goes away. If yes , live with the slightly higher stance. Or get some "helper" springs yo hold them under slight pressure.

[strat61caster]

Disagree that loose springs at full droop (totally irrelevant when the car is on the ground) OR the spring ID being larger than the perch will do anything at all for the noise. Once you're on the ground those springs ain't moving around except to do their job of going boing boing boing. I've had both conditions on two different damper sets and three different top hats, it's never been the culprit of any noise. Spring noises are usually a popping and ringing as the shift into a new position, they never rattle unless you've got a wheel in the air, and even then the swaybar can help keep the spring captured.

My guesses;
Worn spherical bearing in the top hat, most likely imho, an annoying fix but cheaper then a damper rebuild and Vorshlag should be able to send a replacement iirc.

As above, some MCS's had internal noise, you could send them to home base for a rebuild, but pricey and inconvenient and not a guaranteed fix unless you have a replacement damper set to confirm that's the issue. And I've read somewhere that they still came back rattling at least once so, not guaranteed even if it is the issue.

Plain old worn parts/loose nuts/bolts issue, endlinks and swaybar are most likely unless the car has a ton of miles on it and other bearings/bushings could be suspect.