KPower Industries K24 swap

[Kelse92]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

This is what the unrestricted pump 91 tune made on a dynojet with the nasa smoothing

What does this unrestricted number turn out to in avg whp?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by Kelse92

What does this unrestricted number turn out to in avg whp?

I don't have the dyno files for that run but I would guess in the 215-218whp area.

I need to add a 2x 25lb weights to the car and probably run 3/4 tank plus to be safe this weekend, ughhh.

[Kelse92]

Sweet, that's kinda what I was thinking, stoked to hopefully get my parts in soon this is right where I want to be!

[hedtrip]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

TB to adapter

They sheer where the adapter mates to the rubber gasket.
I'm no engineer but it is my assumption that the lack of manifold bracing, rubber gasket, phenolic washers, stick size M6 with not really enough thread length / ability to get decent clamping force, and an inline 4 known for vibration allow the TB to walk back and forth until bolts sheer.

I Dont remember if i posted it here or not. but last summer i trimmed around the Radiator support where the Intake goes through & Added rubber isolators to where it mounts so the intake moves with the engine. I haven't snapped a bolt since.

The Kswapped s2k dont seem to have these promblems.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by hedtrip

I Dont remember if i posted it here or not. but last summer i trimmed around the Radiator support where the Intake goes through & Added rubber isolators to where it mounts so the intake moves with the engine. I haven't snapped a bolt since.

The Kswapped s2k dont seem to have these promblems.

What did you end up using for the isolator? I tried a rubber isolator thing with a stud on each side but McMaster failed me.

I suspect the Bosch TB will have fewer issues since there is a much, much larger gap taken up by the silicone coupler compared to the BRZ TB. I will say to make sure to tie your harnesses down so nothing flexes as the car drives, my MAP sensor repair broke again after an hour of track time, fixed it by using longer pigtails and making sure there is no stress on the wires.

semi related
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/superk/

“We had issues with throttle bodies falling apart, sensors failing and intake manifolds cracking,” says Smedegard. “With the K24 having a longer stroke, it made a lot of harmonics, especially the higher you rev it. Most places that make intake manifolds don’t set their manifolds to be braced back to the engine–you just mount it to the mounting flange, and that’s it. We braced the intake manifold, which greatly reduced a lot of the harmonics that the throttle body sees and the sensors mounted on the intake manifold.”

[RedReplicant]

Heard a couple of interesting things today, ASM doesn't run oil coolers on the GLTC K cars, they use the stock rear vent on the valve covers instead of different ports, and they weld a tab to the header so it can be supported by one of the transmission bolts.

[redlined600]

This matches up with what Andy told me. Just to add a bit more detail, they also use the expanded capacity oil pans.
I'm not sure if they are welding a different tab on, but the the oem s2 config also has a support bracket to the header.

[RedReplicant]

The one I saw had a tab welded on and it connected to the second bellhousing bolt from the bottom right.

You have any more nuggets you're willing to share? Finding info on their cars is difficult, haha.

[captain awesome]

Any idea what weight oil they are running without the coolers? Pretty sure they are running Unit2 oil pans which are 9 liters based on the web description. I think the k power pan is around 7?



Also curious about the exhaust tab. If you guys see any pics worth sharing it would be appreciated.



Intake and exhaust brace are at the top of my to do list now besides finally drilling my dip stick hole correctly.....

[RedReplicant]

I don't know what the official kpower capacity is, but unless you fill it to the twist in the stick you're going to get oil pressure drops on track anyway.

[captain awesome]

My dipstick is shortened to the top dot currently since it was a pain to get it to seat with the kpower dipstick hole blunder. Unfortunately I didn't catch this until the engine was already in the car. I wonder if pulling the pan is worth the trouble if I need to keep it above that point anyway. That means I could do head/cams in situ which would be a bit less work overall.

[funkjaw]

Welp, had to get a tow home last night...

Started my car up after getting McDonalds, drove about a block, then car just died. Started it back up, it would idle (although struggle), but not take any throttle input without dying. Eventually I gave up trying to get it to run and had it towed home.

This morning trying to start it it cranks but won't start at all.

Here are the codes it was reporting.


I had a Bosch 74mm TB that I have been meaning to install, so I went ahead and threw it in using the Kpower adapter plate and harness. Calibrated, confirmed it works, but still same thing: crank, no start.

Any ideas? I'm stumped. Checked all connectors around the car, everything is plugged in, nothing looks loose or damaged...

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Any ideas? I'm stumped. Checked all connectors around the car, everything is plugged in, nothing looks loose or damaged...

What is your MAP sensor reading at rest with the car just in ACC mode or whatever? Also, the KPower 74mm adapter rubber gasket only has like .5mm in two spots, so make sure it is actually sealed if your MAP is reading a sane value.



Also, here are some header brace pictures

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Welp, had to get a tow home last night...

Started my car up after getting McDonalds, drove about a block, then car just died. Started it back up, it would idle (although struggle), but not take any throttle input without dying. Eventually I gave up trying to get it to run and had it towed home.

This morning trying to start it it cranks but won't start at all.

Here are the codes it was reporting.


I had a Bosch 74mm TB that I have been meaning to install, so I went ahead and threw it in using the Kpower adapter plate and harness. Calibrated, confirmed it works, but still same thing: crank, no start.

Any ideas? I'm stumped. Checked all connectors around the car, everything is plugged in, nothing looks loose or damaged...

Figured out the issue:
The Kpower fuel pump ECU bypass connector is warped on the pin for the red wire due to excessive heat. This was causing the power to the fuel pump to be intermittent as the male and female pins were losing connection due to the heat warp.




I'll email Kpower to see what they say, but I will likely just permanently solder the wires together or maybe put in a delfi connector as they are a lot more robust than the Kpower connector.

As for the TPS codes I'm not really sure why there were present, but to be safe I threw in my Bosch 74mm TB anyways.