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Old 09-04-2019, 01:48 AM   #15
Phoenix_gts86
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Originally Posted by solidsnake11 View Post
I have a standalone, emissions testing keeps me from using it.


What PnP do you have?


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Old 09-04-2019, 02:01 AM   #16
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What PnP do you have?


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Its not plug and play. Its an old AEM not for sure it could run the cams or DI.
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by stefodrom View Post
Hi Buddy! Thanks for sharing your instructions.
Can you upload a video for us? i can't find something on yt.

Is the Bee R only using Cylinder 2 for ignition cut? Why especcially cylinder 2?

Thanks!
The bee is using cylinder 2 only for rpms, 180 degree signal, the crankshaft is the 1 degree signal.
It modifys the crank signal for the rev limit.

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Old 09-09-2019, 09:53 PM   #18
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So I hooked a bee*r up today and light flashes cuts small amount of spark. I used coil 1 so that was pin 21 for 180 degree.

I bought it off ebay so that is probably the problem.

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Old 09-09-2019, 11:36 PM   #19
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So I hooked a bee*r up today and light flashes cuts small amount of spark. I used coil 1 so that was pin 21 for 1 degree.



I bought it off ebay so that is probably the problem.


Cool no problem Iíll pm you as there are a few things to check as well


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Old 09-10-2019, 08:15 PM   #20
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So i rewired the yellow wire to tach wire, unfortunately still does not work a35 15 gr red = yellow.
I'm done with this cheap clone, waiting on the real one now, from Japan.

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Old 09-10-2019, 08:16 PM   #21
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So i rewired the yellow wire to tach wire, unfortunately still does not work a35 15 gr red = yellow.

I'm done with this cheap clone, waiting on the real one now.


I have pmd you


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Old 09-16-2019, 03:15 PM   #22
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Dear


Can u plz attached some pictures for wireing and location of each wire
This could help as alot



2morrow I'll get my bee rev

So I need some help with it


MT turbo FRS



Thnx again
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Old 09-16-2019, 05:42 PM   #23
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Dear


Can u plz attached some pictures for wireing and location of each wire
This could help as alot



2morrow I'll get my bee rev

So I need some help with it


MT turbo FRS



Thnx again
If your bee*r is fake it will not work unless you use 4 diodes and hook it to all 4 igt coil wires. Even at that I'm not sure it will work correctly.
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Old 10-20-2019, 03:49 PM   #24
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I got a genuine bee*r straight from japan. Wired it as the instructions from neugen. Didn't work, wired the yellow wire to both rpm signals one at a time, one on the ecm and the other on the authentication module. Then tried yellow wire to the igt signal that didn't work either, so I thought it was a bad unit, sent it back and received a replacement two weeks later. Wired it up and bam same thing. So I decided to wire the yellow wire to the cam sensor. It works with the dip switches 1 on, 234 off. So about 4 weeks later it finally
works.!!!!

Earlier in the thread I said the rpm was used for the 1 degree signal and the crank was the 180. This is incorrect. rpm(cam) is used for the 180, engine fires 2 cylinders per 360 so one rpm(cam) signal is 180 `Crank is the 1 degree signal. I corrected my post.

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Old 01-28-2020, 04:17 AM   #25
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Hey bud, could you send a video to GT86_Ryan on Instagram please

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix_gts86 View Post
ADMIN PLEASE STICKY

Bee*R 25th Anniversary Power Module Type B - Toyota GTS86 SMART ENTRY

Tools you will need:
-Wire Stripper (a must)
-Electrical Tape (a must)
-Heat Shrink (not a must)
-Soldering Iron (a must)
-Solder (a must)
-Newspaper (a must)
-Heat Gun/Cigarette Lighter (not a must)

-Once your Bee*R arrives, ignore the Wiring Diagram instructions for the Smart Entry 86 System and follow my Guide.

-My guide is what works for me AFTER trying for about 10 weeks to get my Bee*R working because the Wiring Diagram and instructions that were given for the install did NOT at all work for me. Mind you.. when i say 10 weeks,
I tried many ideas, this and that and I can honestly say my guide is what works, at least for me (Smart Entry).

-I had asked a fair few amount of people for help and I got people where they didn't know what Bee*R was and people where they knew about them or had one themselves but the Bee*R wouldn't operate properly like it should or it didn't operate at all.

The Official Steps in order to make your Toyota GTS Smart Entry - SHOOT 4 FOOT FLAMES!!!

IMPORTANT NOTES:

-It's important that you DO NOT fix your Bee*R to a position/location until you have tried and tested your Bee*R.

1. We need to locate the 5 wires coming from our Bee*R onto our
-Yellow - IGNITION. CYLINDER 2.OUTPUT
-Grey - Launch Control Handbrake/Clutch
-Red - 12v+
-Black - Ground
-Green - NE+ Engine Speed/Crankshaft Angle Position Sensor

-These wires coming from the Bee*R will come already stripped for your convenience.

2. We need to locate the 5 wires that i previous said earlier in step 1, onto the ECU behind the Glove Box, our ECU has 4 plugs.

We will be using only 2 of these plugs and they are:

A36 plug 34 pinouts:
-Black Wire - Pin 4
-Yellow Wire - Pin 31

A34 plug 35 pinouts:
-Green Wire - Pin 16
-Red Wire - Pin 6

Wiring Diagram link for the ECU Pinouts:
-http://www.ft86club.com/files/BRZwiringi.pdf on Page 389

-The Grey wire we use as our Launch Control - You can utilise your launch control for either:
-Your handbrake signal wire or for your clutch signal wire.
-By having your Grey Wire Launch Control wire going to the Clutch
signal wire you wont need to lift up between gears, this will engage FFS=Flat Foot Shifting.
-In Boosted applications this is specially helpful while this keeps us in the positive boost areas.

Good To Know:
Switches on the side:
-Switch 1: OFF
-Switch 2: OFF
-Switch 3: OFF
-Switch 4: ON

Dials on the front:
-Rev 1: Redline (Left Dial)
-Rev 2: Launch Control (Middle Dial)
-GAIN: Fast and Slow frequency of spark/ignition cut 1-F (Right Dial)
-1 Being the fastest spark/ignition cut = Bapapapapap
-F being the slowest spark ignition cut = BANG BANG BANG
-For some.. the sweet spot is 9, for some the sweet spot is on a later GAIN.
Have a play.

-Between all 3 DIALS you will need to find that sweet spot for you and your car, and what you plan to perform with your Bee*R, whether its for show, or a perfect launch etc.

Throwing CEL Codes?
-No codes should show but if they do, make sure you have an OBD-II port device Code Reader to clear the thrown codes
and try a different GAIN.
-Codes also may throw from operating the Bee*R too often at one given time or perhaps in quick intervals.
-In all honesty I think the Bee*R is mainly great for pleasing an audience of flames.

-If you're reading this and you have your Bee*R working or know a friend or someone who has their Bee*R working on a NON-SMART ENTRY 86 system, please pm me or message me here and I'll add the instructions here and give you credit, just so all the information is in one place.

-Or If you're a person who has a Bee*R and you're a NON-SMART ENTRY System 86 and the unit doesn't operate, I may have a wiring Diagram for you that is untested but could just work but at your own risk but hey life is full of taking risks.

-I am not held responsible for anything that blows, this is my guide that safely works for me, use at your own risk.

-Pictures can be provided if a written explanation is not clear enough.

Have Questions?

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Old 02-04-2020, 07:31 PM   #26
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I was going to use the bee r for anti lag but it would work for a few seconds and then stall the engine. Launch control with the $10 antilag mod worked way better.
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