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Old 10-26-2012, 08:19 PM   #15
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This is a good writeup but I think you should be really careful with these "rules of thumb" about how other dynos read relative to your typical Dynojet 224x that a lot of shops have.

I have seen Dynapacks read low compared to a Dynojet, as much as 15% low. But they can also read higher. I'd be hesitant to give a % figure in either direction. I think most people would agree that Mustang Dynos and Dyno Dynamics dynos read lower than a Dynojet. Anywhere from 10-15% is probably a good ballpark range. I've certainly never seen a Mustand Dyno read higher than a Dynojet.

One thing you gotta remember is that there is no kind of standard equipment maintenance or calibration schedule that shops have to follow. So the condition can vary.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arghx7 View Post
I think most people would agree that Mustang Dynos and Dyno Dynamics dynos read lower than a Dynojet. Anywhere from 10-15% is probably a good ballpark range. I've certainly never seen a Mustand Dyno read higher than a Dynojet.
Those are dangerous assumptions too.

It comes down to how scrupulous the dyno operators are especially with older Mustangs and DynoJets. For the newer systems like I said, I've got very little variances and with even one shop here with an 18 year old dyno that's regularly calibrated, same minor differences.

Newer offerings from both companies now have real-time weather / sampling stations to keep us honest.

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Old 11-01-2012, 02:46 PM   #17
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People see dyno numbers from different tuners out there after installing their products and doesnt realize different dynos provide different results which will make their product not making enough hp and some read too high and this will hopefully iron out that issue. So if you seem a bit confused about the different types of dyno's and what numbers to expect out of them. So let's clear them up.

There are 3 types of chassis dyno's you'll run into in the USA. Dynojet, Dynapack, & Mustang. They all spit out slightly different HP/TQ numbers when you compare one brand to another (i.e. Dynojet vs Dynapack), but they are all 100% consistent if you stay on the same dyno every time. So if you are tracking your mods as you add them, go to the same shop every time.

95% of the shops in the USA are running one of these three dyno's:

1. Dynojet - most popular in the USA. Considered the "standard" here in the states since most shops utilize them. For our theoretical "car", the Dynojet will read 100 rwhp, & 100 ft/lbs of torque.

With this dyno you drive up to the rollers (single roller per wheel ; car sits on top of the roller), they strap the car down, and do a full throttle pass in 3rd or 4th gear. The dyno will calculate the power based on how fast the car will spin the rollers. This is called an inertia based dyno.

For WOT power passes that you can compare to each other on the internet, Dynojet's are perfect. They're everywhere! But most do not have any sort of load simulating capability. Since 2005 more and more Dynojet's sold have their eddy current loading device. So you can ID them, Dynojets are typically red or black.


I would like to provide a little clarification.

I own a Dynojet 424xLC2 with the LINX system. It is a 4 wheel drive dyno and has an inertial roller with a known mass and circumference and a speed sensor, but it also has load cells for use in crontrolling each of the 2 2000 ft. lb eddy brakes I have (one on each roller). It ALSO has the linx system - a giant belt that attaches the 2 rollers together when in use, that allows me to dyno a 2wd car without disabling the VSC or TRAC since it spins both rollers at the same speed. It also lets me dyno AWD cars with viscous center couplings (Like EVOs and Celica alltrac turbos) without straining or overheating the coupling.

The dyno has a real time weather station input that is NOT end user changeable, so the dyno keeps you honext and prevents correction factor trickery.

There is a cool timelapse photo thread of us getting is installed on our website that also gives you a good idea of how the in ground hardware goes together:

http://www.ddperformanceresearch.com...c.php?f=2&t=67

Last edited by Boosted2.0; 11-01-2012 at 03:01 PM.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:01 AM   #18
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We use a MAHA LPS 3000:
http://www.maha.de/cps/rde/xchg/SID-...eLocaleAttr=en

It's been upgraded over the years, with a better cooling system.
We integrated a water spray system, to keep turbo car temperatures constant, the software has been updated for OBD interfaces etc.

We also have a quite strict manitenance program, a MAHA technician comes every 3-4 months to test the system, check the precision etc.
We also clean the rollers as often as possible.

It's a "brake", or load cell dyno, good for up to 800 bhp, compatible with 4wd cars included viscous coupling etc (not problem at all testing Porsche turbos, Lambos, Audi Quattro, GTR etc).

It has showed to be very precise, both between different similar maha systems around the world and also from car to car.
The results are also very consistent at different times of the year, with the same car giving the same results in winter and summer.
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:25 PM   #19
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We use Mustang because we feel like its industry standard.

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Old 11-15-2012, 02:36 PM   #20
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Oh - this is the 424xLC2 that we have, Minus the linx:



This is the Linx system:


Here are some pics we took while assembling it:





Cover plates on fully extended:


Cover plates on fully retracted:
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:09 PM   #21
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Also keep in mindthat different dyno's can use different SAE corrections, eg:
http://www.evolutionoz.net/forums/in...howtopic=51394
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Old 05-31-2013, 05:29 AM   #22
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Mustang vs Dynojet

Found this while looking for other things, good read too :

Ref : http://houstonperformancetrucks.com/...o-vs-Dyno-Jet&

"The most important thing to remember is that a dyno is a testing tool. If the numbers keep increasing, then you’re doing the right thing. We try to look over at NET gain, instead of Peak HP numbers. A 30rwhp increase is a 30rwhp increase regardless of what dyno it is on."

"For comparing dyno plots to determine losses or gains, don't focus on the peak values but take a visual average by comparing the before and after curves on the same graph. If you can't see a marked improvement on the dyno, you probably won't see a performance improvement on the street. Also, realize that both the Dynojet and Mustang chassis dynamometers are useful tools that have excellent repeatability. Both dynos measure the correct horsepower and torque for the load that they apply. Both dynos will show losses or gains from modifications. It is recommended that you pick a dyno for your baseline testing and stick with that dyno type and dyno location (and dyno operator) for subsequent testing."

Cheers,


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Old 06-28-2013, 12:33 PM   #23
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Personlaly, as a tuner.....as long as its repeatable. I can tune on it. But I really dislike dynojets. First, they were intentionally fudged to read engine hp. There is an article of an interview with Dobek, Dynojets creator where it explains the whole fiasco. They seem to have lowered their numbers a bit since.... but they still read high.

Second, they often produce graphs with spikes and bumps that make it hard to see what is going on. Top right of the sheet, you will see most graphs say 'smoothing' 3 or 5. This is heavy and can mask actual bumps that the car is making.

My favourite for tuning, and I do a lot of real time steady state tuning.... is the Aussie dynos like dynodynamics or mainline. Their rollers are very small and very light. This lets you hit very low load points in your map. Also a heavy drum or flywheel acts as a buffer or damper and can mask small fluctuations in output. If I see a bump in a graph. ... I know it's real.

They are all tools, and the skill and knowledge of the operator is probably more important than the dyno.
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Old 06-28-2013, 02:50 PM   #24
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From the NASA time trials rules:
"Dynamometer tests must be conducted on a Dynojet Model for front and rear wheel drive vehicles, and on a Dynojet, Mustang, Dyno Dynamics, or Dynapack for AWD cars, in a commercial facility that offers dynamometer testing as part of their business and is open to the public. All (AWD) Dyno test results using a Mustang or Dyno Dynamics dynamometer will have 10% added to the maximum horsepower reading to obtain the number that will be used to calculate the “Adjusted Weight/Power Ratio”

For what it's worth, NASA doesn't appear to think it's a myth.
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:02 PM   #25
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Dynocom is another one to add, although I don't think it's that common. It's what my brother's WRX was tuned on.
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:20 PM   #26
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From the NASA time trials rules:
"Dynamometer tests must be conducted on a Dynojet Model for front and rear wheel drive vehicles, and on a Dynojet, Mustang, Dyno Dynamics, or Dynapack for AWD cars, in a commercial facility that offers dynamometer testing as part of their business and is open to the public. All (AWD) Dyno test results using a Mustang or Dyno Dynamics dynamometer will have 10% added to the maximum horsepower reading to obtain the number that will be used to calculate the “Adjusted Weight/Power Ratio”

For what it's worth, NASA doesn't appear to think it's a myth.
Definately not a myth. But some caution is in order. All dyno numbers can be fudged. About 13 years ago, my first dyno was a Mustang md250. About 80 percent of owners fudged something to try and simulate dynojet numbers. Customers were not as informed. The internet was newish etc. So bigger hp was a selling feature. I never bumped mine. But it was very common.

Some shops do it even today. Even the world famous Westech had their Superflow chassis dyno bumped to simulate dynojet.

Dynojet is probably most difficult to fudge. So for all its flaws, the numbers are more consistent dyno to dyno and location to location.
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:23 PM   #27
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Dynocom is another one to add, although I don't think it's that common. It's what my brother's WRX was tuned on.
It's getting common due to its very low price and dyno virgins everywhere are buying them. They seem to vary model to model over the years. Ive seen numbers much lower than dynojet for early models to actually higher than dynojet on newer ones.
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:26 PM   #28
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It's getting common due to its very low price and dyno virgins everywhere are buying them. They seem to vary model to model over the years. Ive seen numbers much lower than dynojet for early models to actually higher than dynojet on newer ones.
I think it depends on what they're calibrated to. Since they're not super well known or "industry standard" the one my brother's car was tuned on was calibrated to approximate at Mustang Dyno's numbers. His stage 2 setup with a protune put out 230whp on it. Stock STi's run 205hp/220tq, stock 2.5L WRX 185hp.

Cheers
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