Correct process for coilovers/alignment installation

[VOSS]

I dont know if i'm overthinking this, but what is the correct process for the whole coilover, drop, alignment process?

- Install coilovers,
- Adjust height
- Wait a week to settle
- Align
- Install aftermarket wheels

or

- Install coilovers
- Wait a week to settle
- Adjust height if necessary
- Align
- Install aftermarket wheels

Thanks guys, first time doing this.

[i8ur911]

Install coilovers
Set ride height
Install wheels/tires
Alignment

No need to wait as coilover springs are typically much stiffer than standard springs and don't "settle" hardly at all.....not enough to hold off on getting an alignment.

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[VOSS]

Originally Posted by i8ur911

Install coilovers
Set ride height
Install wheels/tires
Alignment

No need to wait as coilover springs are typically much stiffer than standard springs and don't "settle" hardly at all.....not enough to hold off on getting an alignment.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Thanks. Is it best to wait for the alignment before installing the new wheels to avoid uneven wear?

[i8ur911]

I always highly recommend getting an alignment immediately after installing your new suspension. So ideally you should be able to install your wheels/tires at the same time as your suspension.

If you need to wait for your alignment, is drive the car as minimally as possible.

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[soundman98]

Originally Posted by VOSS

Thanks. Is it best to wait for the alignment before installing the new wheels to avoid uneven wear?

depends on your situation. certain new wheel sizes will clear coilovers but won't clear the stock struts.

[VOSS]

Originally Posted by i8ur911

I always highly recommend getting an alignment immediately after installing your new suspension. So ideally you should be able to install your wheels/tires at the same time as your suspension.

If you need to wait for your alignment, is drive the car as minimally as possible.

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Alright, sweet, thanks.

Originally Posted by soundman98

depends on your situation. certain new wheel sizes will clear coilovers but won't clear the stock struts.

Yeh, i'm not too worried about the stock struts as i'll be installing aftermarket coilovers before i install wheels.

[soundman98]

durr... it made sense in my head somehow... you wouldn't need an alignment just changing the wheels....

[Racecomp Engineering]

There's a difference between springs "taking a set" and springs sagging.

All springs take a set...even my swift coilover springs came down almost a 1/4 inch in a day. At the very least you should give the car a little drive around the block and shake it down. Installing suspension and driving directly onto an alignment rack isn't recommended.

- Andrew

[maslin]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

There's a difference between springs "taking a set" and springs sagging.

All springs take a set...even my swift coilover springs came down almost a 1/4 inch in a day. At the very least you should give the car a little drive around the block and shake it down. Installing suspension and driving directly onto an alignment rack isn't recommended.

- Andrew

Agreed. I won’t align a car immediately after it hits the ground, even if I didn’t touch the suspension. At least a lap around the block to settle things out before the heads go on.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

There's a difference between springs "taking a set" and springs sagging.

All springs take a set...even my swift coilover springs came down almost a 1/4 inch in a day. At the very least you should give the car a little drive around the block and shake it down. Installing suspension and driving directly onto an alignment rack isn't recommended.

- Andrew

Just to add a little... the spring rate of a spring also doesn't change how much or little it'll sag. You can have a very high quality, but low rate, spring that doesn't sag at all, and also have a cheap high rate spring sag a ton. Sag is more about the metal fatiguing than spring rate.

[KnightRyderx2]

Also install your new wheels before you get your alignment. This will allow the tech to compensate for the increased width and or low offset of the wheel. He can adjust the setting appropriately to fit whatever setup you have.

[RayRay88]

Originally Posted by KnightRyderx2

Also install your new wheels before you get your alignment. This will allow the tech to compensate for the increased width and or low offset of the wheel. He can adjust the setting appropriately to fit whatever setup you have.

Your wheel and tire width/size/offset has no effect on camber toe or caster. -3 degrees of camber and 0toe is the same on a 16x6 wheel as it is on a 17x9 wheel.

[maslin]

Originally Posted by KnightRyderx2

Also install your new wheels before you get your alignment. This will allow the tech to compensate for the increased width and or low offset of the wheel. He can adjust the setting appropriately to fit whatever setup you have.

Originally Posted by RayRay88

Your wheel and tire width/size/offset has no effect on camber toe or caster. -3 degrees of camber and 0toe is the same on a 16x6 wheel as it is on a 17x9 wheel.

He could be saying for that stance bro look you ignore actual alignment specs and set your wheels flush to your fenders.

That's a not an alignment, it's hard parking. But to each their own.

Or maybe you're planning on running a fairly aggressive wheel spec, minimum camber would be dictated by fender clearance. You may be forced to run -2.5* instead of the -1.8* you would like.

But then the heads will scratch you're shiny new wheels.

[KnightRyderx2]

Originally Posted by RayRay88

Your wheel and tire width/size/offset has no effect on camber toe or caster. -3 degrees of camber and 0toe is the same on a 16x6 wheel as it is on a 17x9 wheel.

Originally Posted by maslin

He could be saying for that stance bro look you ignore actual alignment specs and set your wheels flush to your fenders.

That's a not an alignment, it's hard parking. But to each their own.

Or maybe you're planning on running a fairly aggressive wheel spec, minimum camber would be dictated by fender clearance. You may be forced to run -2.5* instead of the -1.8* you would like.

But then the heads will scratch you're shiny new wheels.

Ray, when your running sizes like that you are right, you can just get a standard alignment.

I think Maslin gets what I'm trying to say here. Maybe dude is running a 18x9.5 +22(just an example), there is many setups for looks/function here. Your way of life is not someone else's way of life. At some point wheel/tire/fender engagement comes into question and you may have to compensate for it, its just a matter if his setup requires it.

If your running a more aggressive setup you may want to add a bit more camber so your tire and/or wheel will clear and not rub the fender. I mean its your choice in the end, run -1.5* and have your tire rub or run -2.3* and have it clear, its your choice.

If he has something that is not too aggressive he will be fine with whatever wheel for the alignment. On the other hand if his final wheel is on the aggressive side its a good idea to show up with that wheel. Maybe its just me but I would show up with my final wheel to the alignment just to be safe.