Ohlins Road & Track for FRS/BRZ suspension install/review thread

[ajc209]

On my MI20, you need to put an allen key into the top of the threaded shaft to hold it from turning and use a spanner to tighten the big bolt.

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[oppiee]

Turns back instantly.

Originally Posted by wparsons

Turn back instantly, or works loose over time?

You should be able to get a strap wrench in even with the coilovers in the car, might need a helper to hold it (or use the torque wrench at the top).

I've got this set, worked great for me on the v3's (off the car).

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en//pdp/m...-0588335p.html

[wbradley]

QUESTION: the adjustment knobs, which direction is harder and which is softer?

Is it the opposite on the fronts since they are inverted?

Tracking this Sunday, wish I was sure!

[ajc209]

Clockwise is full firm

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[Scracho]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

If I had the BRZ tS, then I would definitely change the suspension. I cannot stand the wheel gap.


Give us an update when you have the Ohlins installed.

I greatly dislike the wheel gap also

[Scracho]

Originally Posted by new2subaru

What spring rates are you thinking about? I'm curious as to how the car would feel.

Getting some advice now but likely close to MI20 kit

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by Scracho

Getting some advice now but likely close to MI20 kit

I won't pretend I have a clue lol

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by oppiee

Turns back instantly.

Are the upper mounts properly aligned on the shaft, and fully seated? If they're not lined up right they'll feel tight, but can still wobble around on the shaft. It's not super easy to get it right by yourself unless you take all the spring pressure off the upper mount and see if seat properly. You an do it fighting the spring, it's just a lot harder.

[wbradley]

Originally Posted by ajc209

Clockwise is full firm

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Thanks, and do you recall it that would be the opposite or not for the front dampers due to the knob being on the bottom?

[ajc209]

Originally Posted by wbradley

Thanks, and do you recall it that would be the opposite or not for the front dampers due to the knob being on the bottom?

Well depends how you look at it. All 4 dampers on the table you turn them clock wise looking down at the adjuster. You'll soon know if you got it wrong!!!!!

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[mav1178]

Originally Posted by wbradley

QUESTION: the adjustment knobs, which direction is harder and which is softer?

Is it the opposite on the fronts since they are inverted?

Tracking this Sunday, wish I was sure!

Full clockwise looking at the knob from the top (or bottom) is full firm.

Or, just follow the usual "righty tighty" rule for reference. Same thing.

Invert does not affect direction in which knob turns if you think of it this way: inverted simply means just means the shock is flipped upside down.

[Scracho]

Parts are in... Stay tuned!

[oppiee]

Originally Posted by wparsons

Are the upper mounts properly aligned on the shaft, and fully seated? If they're not lined up right they'll feel tight, but can still wobble around on the shaft. It's not super easy to get it right by yourself unless you take all the spring pressure off the upper mount and see if seat properly. You an do it fighting the spring, it's just a lot harder.

I'm going to give the strap a try. It looks all mounted flush. I'm using ground control top mount.

My front end mainly makes a light clunky noise at slower speeds. It's more prounced over rapid little bumps like backing out of the driveway. At high speeds there is no clunk at all.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by oppiee

I'm going to give the strap a try. It looks all mounted flush. I'm using ground control top mount.

My front end mainly makes a light clunky noise at slower speeds. It's more prounced over rapid little bumps like backing out of the driveway. At high speeds there is no clunk at all.

The shaft is stepped, and it's possible to get it hung up on the first step instead of fully seating.

If it's a light clunk, it could be the spherical bearing in the upper mount, or also an end link.