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Old 06-28-2020, 10:46 PM   #3641
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Originally Posted by jayjay06 View Post
Have you looked checked the banjo bolt surfaces themselves? Sometimes they have/get defects preventing the seal. *edit: if you find a defect you can try to polish it out with emery cloth or high grit sand paper.

Are you hitting the ridge, is it pushing the bolt up? If so when I was installing the banjo slipped when I was tightening and pushed up on the ridge. I loosened and turned ccw a smidge and locked it down.

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Missed your post.

I did not inspect the banjo bolt or the slave cylinder for defects. Since I was going as fast as i could. I will check when i take it off.

So if the bleeder is 6 oclock is yours at 4 or 5 so the shaft of the bolt doesn't touch the lip? Mine is likely touching the lip. That's a good point. Since it is leaking already I'll see if I can clock it a little further ccw to see if that helps. I'll go do that now.
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Old 06-28-2020, 10:51 PM   #3642
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Missed your post.



I did not inspect the banjo bolt or the slave cylinder for defects. Since I was going as fast as i could. I will check when i take it off.



So if the bleeder is 6 oclock is yours at 4 or 5 so the shaft of the bolt doesn't touch the lip? Mine is likely touching the lip. That's a good point. Since it is leaking already I'll see if I can clock it a little further ccw to see if that helps. I'll go do that now.
Probably at like 4:45, just barely not touching where the lip/Ridge is.

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Old 06-28-2020, 11:05 PM   #3643
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Yeah I was thinking of going to the dealership and getting OEM crush washers for the clutch line. Are those copper? They looked like it.

Do you know if the edelbrock banjo bolt for the fuel line would fit the same crush washers as the oem fuel banjo bolt? If so I might buy more of the oem ones to avoid the hassle.

Regarding thickness, do you know what thickness to buy if I don't go oem?
I dont have a manual, but copper you should be able to tell by the color unless its plated. If its silver color it might be aluminum but scratch a scrap one hard enough with a blade and see if the base metal is copper or aluminum color.

Yes, I am using the oem fuel line crush washer on the edelbrock banjo and bolt. Someone else in this thread was doing the same. I'll go measure a spare OEM thickness for you later tonight and reply.

If you go copper, you should get around the same thickness as what Edelbrock provides or around the OEM thickness. Dont think you're going to have too many choices here. Things to watch out for: washers which are too thin could leave more thread protruding which may bottom out the screw in the hole before the washers are compressed. Too thin could also place the banjo bolt fluid hole outside the banjo loop which could cause the washer to block the hole depending on the washer centering features of the bolt. Two thick can reduce thread engagememnt and strip threads. Usually these issues are caused by having the wrong banjo bolt and banjo combination so I really doubt you will have any issues. It always pays to be attentive to these kinds of details though
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Old 06-28-2020, 11:21 PM   #3644
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The OEM fuel line banjo crush washer is .040" (1mm) thick. Scratched through the silver coating and it looks like copper.
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Old 06-28-2020, 11:50 PM   #3645
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The OEM fuel line banjo crush washer is .040" (1mm) thick. Scratched through the silver coating and it looks like copper.
Awesome! Thanks! Glad to know the OEM part works on the Edelbrock banjo. That's probably the easiest path forward in case I leak. Thanks for your very helpful post above :-)
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Old 06-29-2020, 12:06 AM   #3646
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Probably at like 4:45, just barely not touching where the lip/Ridge is.

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You might be on to something...

I adjusted mine, took 2 to 3 tries because it kept slipping back to touch the ridge when torquing it down... finally got it at an angle I like.

First pic: top view. Left us where I was, right is where it is now. You can see the ridge it was resting on is a little scuffed (could be abrasion, could be corrosion from brake fluid)



Second pic. Side view, top is before, bottom is after. It does appear to rest on the lip before, almost seems slightly bent.



Pic 3: clutch line. This is after the adjustment. Before it was coiled to touch the transmission... now it does NOT touch the transmission, which is good because I don't know how hot that gets.



What's interesting if you clock the line at 6 oclock it will rest on that ridge, which seems like it will be an issue...

I rebled the clutch, and then had it pumped about 20 times. No visible leaks. Will check again in the morning, repump it about 20 times, check, etc.. hopefully this fixes it...

After bleeding the clutch (on the last bleed operation- 5 pumps, hold, bleed, release) pedal didn't come back by itself completely (had to be hand actuated about the last half of travel) but its fine now (comes back by itself) . Is that normal? Got a steady stream of fluid out of the bleeder each time, did it 4 or 5 times, so I don't know if there was even any air due to readjusting the clutch line.

Last edited by BR-ZED; 06-29-2020 at 12:09 AM. Reason: Clarify
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:23 PM   #3647
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You might be on to something...

I adjusted mine, took 2 to 3 tries because it kept slipping back to touch the ridge when torquing it down... finally got it at an angle I like.

First pic: top view. Left us where I was, right is where it is now. You can see the ridge it was resting on is a little scuffed (could be abrasion, could be corrosion from brake fluid)



Second pic. Side view, top is before, bottom is after. It does appear to rest on the lip before, almost seems slightly bent.



Pic 3: clutch line. This is after the adjustment. Before it was coiled to touch the transmission... now it does NOT touch the transmission, which is good because I don't know how hot that gets.



What's interesting if you clock the line at 6 oclock it will rest on that ridge, which seems like it will be an issue...

I rebled the clutch, and then had it pumped about 20 times. No visible leaks. Will check again in the morning, repump it about 20 times, check, etc.. hopefully this fixes it...

After bleeding the clutch (on the last bleed operation- 5 pumps, hold, bleed, release) pedal didn't come back by itself completely (had to be hand actuated about the last half of travel) but its fine now (comes back by itself) . Is that normal? Got a steady stream of fluid out of the bleeder each time, did it 4 or 5 times, so I don't know if there was even any air due to readjusting the clutch line.
Yes my pedal did same thing, had to pull back with hand after open/close of bleeder.

Clutch is working fine for me currently, although I'm on stock clutch and also did Delicious flex fuel, so getting some clutch slip I think (haven't really launched it too hard yet). I'm also on stock tires so taking bets on which one I have to replace first haha!

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Old 06-29-2020, 04:48 PM   #3648
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Got my tune and that made a huge difference.
Only two problems.

1.) Keep getting an off P24B9 code, but everything runs perfect.
UPDATE: Resolved P24B9 code by uninstalling D-Box. Reason for code still unknown.

2.) Still want more power. Guess its time to start looking into upgrading fuel system and slightly smaller pulley.

Curious if anyone knows if these cars respond well to reworked heads or if that is a waste with the FI rout.

Last edited by Glitch; 04-23-2021 at 11:32 AM.
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Old 06-29-2020, 08:12 PM   #3649
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Edelbrock SC MAP sensor re-locator. Nylon block with nylon fittings. All you need to do is build your harness and buy a second TMAP sensor. @BR-ZED and @phen8tk have claimed the first 2 so I have 2 left. Made from the left over material I had after making the prototype, which is currently installed on my bypass hose and performing flawlessly (now that I have a new style bypass valve installed). They have all been vacuum tested to -20 psi.
$10 (to cover material cost) + shipping (Ichi approved)
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Old 06-29-2020, 08:35 PM   #3650
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Edelbrock SC MAP sensor re-locator. Nylon block with nylon fittings. All you need to do is build you're harness and buy a second TMAP sensor. @BR-ZED and @phen8tk have claimed the first 2 so I have 2 left. Made from the left over material I had after making the prototype, which is currently installed on my bypass hose and performing flawlessly (now that I have a new style bypass valve installed). They have all been vacuum tested to -20 psi.
$10 (to cover material cost) + shipping (Ichi approved)
Thanks! Looks like you beat me in getting that installed. Still need to get the SC on the car.

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Yes my pedal did same thing, had to pull back with hand after open/close of bleeder.

Clutch is working fine for me currently, although I'm on stock clutch and also did Delicious flex fuel, so getting some clutch slip I think (haven't really launched it too hard yet). I'm also on stock tires so taking bets on which one I have to replace first haha!

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Ow wow, yikes. I'm also stock clutch but I have sticky 255/40 autocross tires on the car
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Old 06-29-2020, 08:47 PM   #3651
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Thanks! Looks like you beat me in getting that installed. Still need to get the SC on the car.
Yeah, I was going to try your method of backing out the adjustment screw, counting turns and measuring the gap...but the screw snapped so I had to do it the Edelbrock way.
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Old 06-29-2020, 09:13 PM   #3652
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Yeah, I was going to try your method of backing out the adjustment screw, counting turns and measuring the gap...but the screw snapped so I had to do it the Edelbrock way.
Oh wow, i guess you cut a feeler gauge and inserted it that way?

What screw snapped? The original set screw when you tried to loosen it?
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Old 06-29-2020, 09:36 PM   #3653
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Oh wow, i guess you cut a feeler gauge and inserted it that way?

What screw snapped? The original set screw when you tried to loosen it?

Nope, just took the feeler gauge out of the set, it's screwed together.


Yes, the set screw, looks like it had a stress fracture to begin with since there was rust inside where the break occurred.
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Old 06-29-2020, 10:48 PM   #3654
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Originally Posted by BirdTRD View Post
Edelbrock SC MAP sensor re-locator. Nylon block with nylon fittings. All you need to do is build you're harness and buy a second TMAP sensor. @BR-ZED and @phen8tk have claimed the first 2 so I have 2 left. Made from the left over material I had after making the prototype, which is currently installed on my bypass hose and performing flawlessly (now that I have a new style bypass valve installed). They have all been vacuum tested to -20 psi.
$10 (to cover material cost) + shipping (Ichi approved)
I'm interested, if you still have one left. Pm me your PayPal info
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