Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

Without the head on the screw, just the act of drilling the pilot hole for an easy out may just drive it thru. You may even be able to get to the bolt from the back side if enough threads has poked thru and grab it with vice grip and "un-screw" it. Otherwise, time for some easy outs.

Got it! Actually I thought about what you said. But the hole is tapped in a solid piece of aluminum, so there is no place to grab the threads from behind.

Went to Advance Auto. Guy working there was probably the most useful guy I've ever met at an auto parts store. Asked me what I was looking for. About 5 minutes later I had a handful of tools/parts and a ton of advice on how to attack the problem. Though he did say it sounded like a tough place to be.

Ended up using a center punch and hammer to mark the center. Bolted in the other 3 bolts to avoid excessive movement when I did this. Then used a 5/64 reverse drill bit. Unfortunately that didn't bring it out, probably because I suck at drilling straight. Then tapped in the easy out broke it free, then it came right out. First time doing that, the confidence and experience I've gained was worth it!

[Decep]

Nice. If the auto parts store has those surveys on the receipt, fill one out for that guy.

[BirdTRD]

For those of you who have uninstalled the SC for whatever reason. I have mine to a point with everything disconnected, ready to pull except for the coolant lines. What's the easiest, least messy way to do this? I was going to pull the bumper and drain the coolant then disconnect the hoses from the back of the SC, but I was wondering if there is an easier way to do it without pulling the bumper and not making a huge mess.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

For those of you who have uninstalled the SC for whatever reason. I have mine to a point with everything disconnected, ready to pull except for the coolant lines. What's the easiest, least messy way to do this? I was going to pull the bumper and drain the coolant then disconnect the hoses from the back of the SC, but I was wondering if there is an easier way to do it without pulling the bumper and not making a huge mess.

That's a really good point and something I was wondering about today since there is no obvious drain point. My only thought would be to take off the lowest hose in the system (lowest point on the LTR) and draining it from there. But I doubt you can do that with the bumper on. I know that's not helpful (not like I know what I'm doing, I haven't even finished my install lol.

[BR-ZED]

Decided to make a video for how to install the revised bypass valve. Hope this helps some of you.

When in doubt call Edelbrock. This is just what I did, I assume no liability for the advice I provide.

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

That's a really good point and something I was wondering about today since there is no obvious drain point. My only thought would be to take off the lowest hose in the system (lowest point on the LTR) and draining it from there. But I doubt you can do that with the bumper on. I know that's not helpful (not like I know what I'm doing, I haven't even finished my install lol.

Well your'e exactly right. I just removed the 2 black plastic covers/trays in the center under the LTR which gave me access to that lower LTR hose.

[rixon]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Decided to make a video for how to install the revised bypass valve. Hope this helps some of you.

When in doubt call Edelbrock. This is just what I did, I assume no liability for the advice I provide.

Nice Video. Could you do the same thing by using a micrometer to measure the distance from the bracket to the lever on the old install and then set the same spacing on the new install.

Another thought just install the new part and back the screw all the way out until butterfly value is closed then adjust the screw until it moves the recommended amount defined by the manufacture.


Micrometers are cheap nowadays ~ $30 for an OK one.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by rixon

Nice Video. Could you do the same thing by using a micrometer to measure the distance from the bracket to the lever on the old install and then set the same spacing on the new install.

Another thought just install the new part and back the screw all the way out until butterfly value is closed then adjust the screw until it moves the recommended amount defined by the manufacture.


Micrometers are cheap nowadays ~ $30 for an OK one.

No. Because the bracket can move back and forth. So any measurement relative to the bracket doesn't mean anything.

That's why you have to measure relative to the adjustment lever. Essentially you are measuring position A of the adjustment lever (fully closed) vs position B of the adjustment lever (resting against the set screw)

Hope that makes sense.

[BR-ZED]

Ugh. This install continues to kick my ass.

Test fit the SC with the help of a friend. Mostly to see how the process would go (no gaskets). I made the assessment that the way I clocked the clutch cable would make it really hard to bleed the clutch down the road without uninstalling the SC. So we removed the SC and repositioned the clutch cable (Edelbrock technical support said it should be fine to do this with existing crush washers).

Bled the clutch. But now have noticed the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder is leaking. Not a ton. A friend (mechanic) suggested I tighten it a bit more than the 13 ft lbs. Did that... maybe an 1/8 to 1/4 turn more. After a few hours there were no leaks. Pumped the clutch about 20 times. Then checked again to see a slight leak.

Not much, but there is no way this clutch line can be serviced without pulling the SC, so in need to resolve this now.

Any thoughts on alternatives to Edelbrock crush washers? OEM? Will the OEM washer give enough clearance to the banjo bolt shaft and the ridge on the slave cylinder? OEM placement had the bolt above a little groove in the metal for the shaft of the bolt, but the new placement suggests a position where the bolt shaft goes over the ridge on the slave cylinder.

First pic: If the bleeder is 6 oclock, mine is at about 5oclock. This wasn't entirely intentional but it gives the most access to the bleeder valve in this config by my judgement (if SC is in place). Note the ridge I refer to is there for both 5 oclock and 6 oclock positions, and comes very close to the banjo bolt shaft.

Picture 2 (other side) shows the original channel machined into slave cylinder for banjo bolt shaft.

[jayjay06]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Ugh. This install continues to kick my ass.



Test fit the SC with the help of a friend. Mostly to see how the process would go (no gaskets). I made the assessment that the way I clocked the clutch cable would make it really hard to bleed the clutch down the road without uninstalling the SC. So we removed the SC and repositioned the clutch cable (Edelbrock technical support said it should be fine to do this with existing crush washers).



Bled the clutch. But now have noticed the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder is leaking. Not a ton. A friend (mechanic) suggested I tighten it a bit more than the 13 ft lbs. Did that... maybe an 1/8 to 1/4 turn more. After a few hours there were no leaks. Pumped the clutch about 20 times. Then checked again to see a slight leak.



Not much, but there is no way this clutch line can be serviced without pulling the SC, so in need to resolve this now.



Any thoughts on alternatives to Edelbrock crush washers? OEM? Will the OEM washer give enough clearance to the banjo bolt shaft and the ridge on the slave cylinder? OEM placement had the bolt above a little groove in the metal for the shaft of the bolt, but the new placement suggests a position where the bolt shaft goes over the ridge on the slave cylinder.



First pic: If the bleeder is 6 oclock, mine is at about 5oclock. This wasn't entirely intentional but it gives the most access to the bleeder valve in this config by my judgement (if SC is in place). Note the ridge I refer to is there for both 5 oclock and 6 oclock positions, and comes very close to the banjo bolt shaft.



Picture 2 (other side) shows the original channel machined into slave cylinder for banjo bolt shaft.

Have you looked checked the banjo bolt surfaces themselves? Sometimes they have/get defects preventing the seal. *edit: if you find a defect you can try to polish it out with emery cloth or high grit sand paper.

Are you hitting the ridge, is it pushing the bolt up? If so when I was installing the banjo slipped when I was tightening and pushed up on the ridge. I loosened and turned ccw a smidge and locked it down.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[toast]

I replaced my slave cylinder with the SC in place. It's annoying but doable with a 14mm stubby wrench.

[BR-ZED]

Originally Posted by toast

I replaced my slave cylinder with the SC in place. It's annoying but doable with a 14mm stubby wrench.

Did you replace the entire slave cylinder or remove the banjo bolt? Cause the bolt is directly underneath the SC, that seems really hard to take out. It seems it would not have enough clearance to come out.

Now that is a good point... maybe the entire slave cylinder can be removed, banjo replaced, then slave cylinder reattached?

Seems really hard.

[Z06ZN6]

Originally Posted by BR-ZED

Ugh. This install continues to kick my ass.

Any thoughts on alternatives to Edelbrock crush washers? OEM? Will the OEM washer give enough clearance to the banjo bolt shaft and the ridge on the slave cylinder? OEM placement had the bolt above a little groove in the metal for the shaft of the bolt, but the new placement suggests a position where the bolt shaft goes over the ridge on the slave cylinder.

As I mentioned before, Edelbrock aluminum crush washers are a problem to seal. Go to the parts store and buy some copper ones or buy an assortment kit online. The copper ones I have in my spares are have two thicknesses, approximately .033" and .065" thick. The OEM gas line crush washer is su003-00347. 1 per car. I keep a few on hand.

[BR-ZED]

Yeah I was thinking of going to the dealership and getting OEM crush washers for the clutch line. Are those copper? They looked like it.

Do you know if the edelbrock banjo bolt for the fuel line would fit the same crush washers as the oem fuel banjo bolt? If so I might buy more of the oem ones to avoid the hassle.

Regarding thickness, do you know what thickness to buy if I don't go oem?