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Old 04-01-2019, 11:00 PM   #3025
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Originally Posted by Bunsin View Post
Apparently I am now in this camp. At times the AFR is swinging wildly and I am getting hesitation at even throttle. It comes and goes (e.g car is fine for 15 min then after a hard pull goes to crap). The boost swings as well so I’m betting a vacuum leak in the actuator... there is definitely gunk on the metal rod just inside the housing. What threw me is it was just after switching back to E85 from 93 that it started so I was assuming bad gas. After Another fill up from a different station and getting to about 70% ETOH I’m still having issues.

Someone posted a pinch test on the vacuum line but I can’t find the post for the life of me
Pinch test for the bypass valve actuator vacuum hose is here by @BirdTRD:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368

I'm not leaking there. I've been doing a lot of searching on this and looks like 2 odd things that seem overlooked a lot could be causing this: low battery or bad PCV.

My issues got worse on E85 too. Have you been having issues starting, like it takes 2 crank attempts every time? I have and I think I've just about drained my OEM battery: my voltage is like 11.90v. I'm going to try a different one to see if anything changes.

For the PCV there are a couple posts around here where people have replaced the stock valve with one from a WRX/STI. Apparently, our stock one wasn't designed to see boost. These guys reported replacing the valve and their problems went away. The Jackson Racing kit bolsters the stock PCV with another series check valve.

The other observation is the DT tune v25.20 I'm on appears to be well behaved on the DW 700cc/min PIs, but appears to be having issues only when on DI only. I'm going to try to ask Bill to check it out.
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:50 AM   #3026
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Depends on how big the hole is in the diaphragm. This one just started so it's basically a small vacuum leak, the valve still operates but is leaking vacuum so the car stalls occasionally but I haven't logged anything yet. The original one developed a couple holes, one fairly large so I was seeing high fuel trims in the logs and smelling fuel due to it running super rich.
It's easy enough to test, just pinch off the vacuum supply hose going down to the bypass valve and if nothing changes, i.e. idle stays the same, no sound difference, the valve stays opened...then it's good, no leaks.


Gotcha, so you're noticing it at idle. The reason I asked is I have one of the original kits and recently my idle has started randomly going to shit. I was nearly stranded the other day because it would not idle at all, and when it did it was all over the place 700rpm to 3k rpm and all over in between. Small throttle inputs were also dramatic, felt like tip in was giving 80% throttle or something. I'll run this check to see if that's it, but since it goes away I'm thinking it something else. Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-02-2019, 11:58 AM   #3027
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Originally Posted by 86fun View Post
Gotcha, so you're noticing it at idle. The reason I asked is I have one of the original kits and recently my idle has started randomly going to shit. I was nearly stranded the other day because it would not idle at all, and when it did it was all over the place 700rpm to 3k rpm and all over in between. Small throttle inputs were also dramatic, felt like tip in was giving 80% throttle or something. I'll run this check to see if that's it, but since it goes away I'm thinking it something else. Thanks for the info.
Check the valve for sure but it sounds like you have something else going on there. Even when my bypass valve had large holes in it, I didn't have the symptoms you're seeing. Are you throwing any codes?
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Old 04-02-2019, 12:29 PM   #3028
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Gotcha, so you're noticing it at idle. The reason I asked is I have one of the original kits and recently my idle has started randomly going to shit. I was nearly stranded the other day because it would not idle at all, and when it did it was all over the place 700rpm to 3k rpm and all over in between. Small throttle inputs were also dramatic, felt like tip in was giving 80% throttle or something. I'll run this check to see if that's it, but since it goes away I'm thinking it something else. Thanks for the info.
I used silicone lines from the PCV to a radium catch can. I've never had issues with silicone and oil vapor before, but the other day my car was doing exactly what you describe and I found the silicone line cracked right open above the PCV, making a massive vacuum leak. I think a line popped off somewhere in your installation. To verify you can just turn on map access and look at the STFT - if it is a leak it will be pegged at +27%.
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Old 04-02-2019, 12:31 PM   #3029
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For the PCV there are a couple posts around here where people have replaced the stock valve with one from a WRX/STI. Apparently, our stock one wasn't designed to see boost. These guys reported replacing the valve and their problems went away. The Jackson Racing kit bolsters the stock PCV with another series check valve.
The stock PCV line will never see boost in an Edelbrock setup, the connection to the intake is upstream of the blower. This is one of the main reasons that a catch can is a good idea, PCV vapors will go through the rotors and the intercoolers.
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Old 04-02-2019, 05:45 PM   #3030
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Pinch test for the bypass valve actuator vacuum hose is here by @BirdTRD:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368

I'm not leaking there. I've been doing a lot of searching on this and looks like 2 odd things that seem overlooked a lot could be causing this: low battery or bad PCV.

My issues got worse on E85 too. Have you been having issues starting, like it takes 2 crank attempts every time? I have and I think I've just about drained my OEM battery: my voltage is like 11.90v. I'm going to try a different one to see if anything changes.

For the PCV there are a couple posts around here where people have replaced the stock valve with one from a WRX/STI. Apparently, our stock one wasn't designed to see boost. These guys reported replacing the valve and their problems went away. The Jackson Racing kit bolsters the stock PCV with another series check valve.

The other observation is the DT tune v25.20 I'm on appears to be well behaved on the DW 700cc/min PIs, but appears to be having issues only when on DI only. I'm going to try to ask Bill to check it out.

No issues starting (in fact idle is pretty good but a little high). When I did the pinch test last night there was a change in the idle RPM so I'm dead certain it is the actuator. It got entirely worse this morning during the aborted drive to work as it finally lit up the dash. The car was not behaving well at all so I suspect that the tear in the diaphragm got worse. Part is being warrantied by Edelbrock so I'm just in it for rush shipping... Hopefully that is the only leak and I'm not chasing down other things. I should get some of this sorted and then see if Zach can move me up to the latest tune.

Shout out to the guys in the tech center at Edelbrock for the rapid response.

EDIT: Just checked and it threw a P0171 so just as expected

Last edited by Bunsin; 04-02-2019 at 06:15 PM. Reason: Add engine code
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:16 PM   #3031
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The stock PCV line will never see boost in an Edelbrock setup, the connection to the intake is upstream of the blower. This is one of the main reasons that a catch can is a good idea, PCV vapors will go through the rotors and the intercoolers.
Ok, ideally no boost. However, if the bypass valve is partially opened letting compressed air from the blower and uncompressed air from the throttle into the engine, doesn't that also allow boosted pressure back to the PCV? If so, then a check valve in line with the PCV would get us the ideal no boost config at the PCV.

Here's another question: if there is blow by pressurizing the crankcase, and it blows out through the PCV into the blower, isn't that unmetered air getting back into the intake after the MAF? If so, a vent to air path for the PCV would solve the problem (like others have reported), right? Would routing the PCV to the same CCV port on the air box also work?

Last edited by Mr_Eyo; 04-02-2019 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 04-02-2019, 10:45 PM   #3032
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If that was how the bypass valve worked it would never be bypassing anything. If the rotors moved so much air that they could pressurized not only the plenum but also the air volume upstream of the rotors you would always read boost pressure when logging and never see vacuum.

Blow by is caused by combustion - the air for combustion has already been metered, you aren't introducing any new air into the system. The PCV outlet enters the supercharger snout downstream of the MAF.

You seem to want to fix a problem by introducing new measures that could add new problems. The edelbrock kit as spec'd works fine (when the bypass actuator isn't leaking). If yours doesn't you should look at install errors, bad hose connections or things that aren't part of the kit.
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Old 04-02-2019, 10:51 PM   #3033
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My Eyo, I just looked back at your last post. If you have 25% STFT you have a large vacuum leak or a sensor is giving your ECU ridiculous readings. Your tuner should look at your logs and be able to tell you very quickly if it is a sensor reading strangely.
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Old 04-03-2019, 01:25 AM   #3034
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If that was how the bypass valve worked it would never be bypassing anything. If the rotors moved so much air that they could pressurized not only the plenum but also the air volume upstream of the rotors you would always read boost pressure when logging and never see vacuum.

Blow by is caused by combustion - the air for combustion has already been metered, you aren't introducing any new air into the system. The PCV outlet enters the supercharger snout downstream of the MAF.

You seem to want to fix a problem by introducing new measures that could add new problems. The edelbrock kit as spec'd works fine (when the bypass actuator isn't leaking). If yours doesn't you should look at install errors, bad hose connections or things that aren't part of the kit.
Thanks for the sanity check.

I'm just concerned that there's something unique about my hardware (not the Edelbrock kit) that I might have to work around. I don't don't want to be like some of the others that had continual issues with the kit and ended up getting rid of it -- I'd be willing to add workarounds if needed.

I'm still waiting for an appointment to bring the car into the garage to check it for leaks; hopefully that leads to actually fixing the root of the issue.
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Old 04-03-2019, 05:17 PM   #3035
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Drove it today and got a few codes, P0171, P015a and P015b. Guess the hole in the diaphragm's gotten bigger. Hopefully the new bypass valve will be here tomorrow.
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Old 04-03-2019, 09:08 PM   #3036
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Drove it today and got a few codes, P0171, P015a and P015b. Guess the hole in the diaphragm's gotten bigger. Hopefully the new bypass valve will be here tomorrow.
Just installed my actuator today, but I'm still having issues at WOT from a start (massive hesitation at WOT from a dead stop). The actuator now holds a vacuum but I'm not sure is behaving the same as the old one that I did the initial tune on. Logs are going to Bill to see if he can tell me if I have an issue or just enough stuff has changed I need a refresh on the tune (I had the recall work done so who knows if they jacked something up).
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Old 04-04-2019, 01:10 PM   #3037
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Have you tried pulling power from the ecu or reflashing? If not, it's still holding the learned short and long term fuel trims.
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Old 04-04-2019, 03:08 PM   #3038
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Got a dinky V1 surge tank? Not quite ready to spend money on the V2 tank from Jegs? Want the bits to upgrade your V1 surge tank to Bird's V1.5?
All yours for the cost of shipping! First come, first served.
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