Turbo to Supercharger

[ROFL it's Waffle]

Originally Posted by j_ros94

I havent checked my afr on boost still need gauges. Didnt have time to get them during the summer

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

I'm asking because I don't know. Sounds like your car was tuned on a dyno in a shop. I guess I thought you would have an OFT in your possession (which would have all the information we're asking about), even just for the convenience if you need to change maps.

[HaXx]

im not even going to read all the posts, just the OP. get a JRSC c30. its what everyone has. watch speed academy videos on youtube if you wont take it from me.

and read this quick article if ur serious abt changing FI types, take the 60 seconds and read the dang thing: http://speed.academy/scion-frs-subar...install-guide/

[YamahaR86]

Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle

I'm asking because I don't know. Sounds like your car was tuned on a dyno in a shop. I guess I thought you would have an OFT in your possession (which would have all the information we're asking about), even just for the convenience if you need to change maps.

Usually OFT is for people who do E-Tuning without a Dyno Shop since most places aren't familiar with OFT. You also can't lock your tune with OFT either, which most tuners want to.

[j_ros94]

Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle

I'm asking because I don't know. Sounds like your car was tuned on a dyno in a shop. I guess I thought you would have an OFT in your possession (which would have all the information we're asking about), even just for the convenience if you need to change maps.

I have an oft i just gotta plug it later tonight to check and ill update

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

[toast]

Originally Posted by HaXx

im not even going to read all the posts, just the OP. get a JRSC c30. its what everyone has. watch speed academy videos on youtube if you wont take it from me.

and read this quick article if ur serious abt changing FI types, take the 60 seconds and read the dang thing: http://speed.academy/scion-frs-subar...install-guide/

Did you see his dyno plot? No way he's going to be happy with a JSRC after having that. There are certainly things that seem off about his setup, he should fix them before shelling out for an entirely new boost setup.

[j_ros94]

Originally Posted by toast

Did you see his dyno plot? No way he's going to be happy with a JSRC after having that. There are certainly things that seem off about his setup, he should fix them before shelling out for an entirely new boost setup.

Idk what it could be tbh

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

[tomm.brz]

i too think it s a downgrade going to supercharger, you would soon regret it
Also a sc maybe won't give you the extreme heat soak of the turbo, but it still suffer immensely the heat, like a huge torque/drop when the ambient temperature rise, and the car is always dead under 4k rpm

[Irace86.2.0]

I agree with others that a supercharger is a torque curve downgrade, and it is likely not necessary because your turbo issues should be fixable. People run turbos in far hotter conditions and climates. Either the AFR is way off or the turbo has damage to the fins/shaft or there is a melted cat causing an obstruction or the thermostat has failed. I don’t know, but this is fixable.

I just realized I never told you how to tell if the thermostat is stuck. One way is to remove it and replace it, but to confirm it is bad, you boil the thermostat in water and see if the copper plunger opens. If it maintains its size then it is old and frozen. A stuck thermostat usually causes an engine to run hot or run cool. If your engine is running hot, but your radiator cap is cool to the touch then that is a tell tale sign that the thermostat is stuck.

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I don’t think that is accurate. People run oil coolers, FMIC, trans coolers, etc in front of radiators all the time. I don’t believe the ambient air can extract enough heat to make a difference, meaning, if the ambient air is 20 degrees Celsius and the oil is 100 degrees Celsius then the air leaving the oil cooler isn’t even close to 100 degrees. Moreover, the oil cooler isn’t blocking much of the radiator.

I guess saturate was poor choice of wording. When I had an oil cooler in the very front I noticed that in traffic it contributed to not only raising my iat but also heated up the air in front of the rad.

When you're moving at speed I doubt it'd present an issue

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

I guess saturate was poor choice of wording. When I had an oil cooler in the very front I noticed that in traffic it contributed to not only raising my iat but also heated up the air in front of the rad.

When you're moving at speed I doubt it'd present an issue

Normally, in traffic, for any car, IATs would increase, as well as, oil temps and water temps, but you are saying after adding an oil cooler that these temps increased even more in traffic? That sounds odd. With the fans blowing, the increased thermal surface area would definitely dissipate heat, and if the fans weren’t blowing then there isn’t much heat exchange happening anyways, as air is a poor conductor, which is why it is used as insulation. Regardless, there isn’t more heat in the system by adding an oil cooler, so much as, moving heat from the engine to the exchanger, so what hurts one thing says you, I would say benefits another thing. Even if there is heat in the air in front of the exchanger that you can feel, heat flows across a temperature gradient, so as long as the oil or air was hotter, heat would be lost to the environment. Obviously the delta would be less, so the rate of exchange would be less, but this seems very negligible, again, especially considering the size difference between the radiator and oil cooler. Just saying.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Normally, in traffic, for any car, IATs would increase, as well as, oil temps and water temps, but you are saying after adding an oil cooler that these temps increased even more in traffic? That sounds odd. With the fans blowing, the increased thermal surface area would definitely dissipate heat, and if the fans weren’t blowing then there isn’t much heat exchange happening anyways, as air is a poor conductor, which is why it is used as insulation. Regardless, there isn’t more heat in the system by adding an oil cooler, so much as, moving heat from the engine to the exchanger, so what hurts one thing says you, I would say benefits another thing. Even if there is heat in the air in front of the exchanger that you can feel, heat flows across a temperature gradient, so as long as the oil or air was hotter, heat would be lost to the environment. Obviously the delta would be less, so the rate of exchange would be less, but this seems very negligible, again, especially considering the size difference between the radiator and oil cooler. Just saying.

alot of people report worse IATs and issues in stop and go with traffic with Turbo setups, FMICs and oil cooler rad stack in front.... One thing you could try as well is getting the JR Dual Rad which is and oil cooler and bigger radiator in one. Its not suited for heavy track work but street, Canyon, and light track duty its fine. As with other don't down grade. Just eliminate each potential issue 1 by 1. But welcome to modified twin life. Our engine bay stock is an oven, now add in more power, a hot turbo

[Grady]

I am with most everyone else. The heat issue is fixable. Also going supercharger is a downgrade in reliability. The heat needs to stay inside the exhaust. This can be done with ceramic coating and/or wrapping. Turbo blanket is a must. Everything should be covered up to the turbo. Since you are having heat issues you will probably want to cover after turbo all the way to the over pipe. You will probably need to add some hood vents also to get heat out. I went with 2 of the Versus large vents. My setup is similar to yours. Intercooler, oil cooler, radiator. I have the AVO kit. The design is better for heat control. My inlet was moved fwd of the intercooler with the Greedy intake. I sit in Dallas traffic in 100+ deg weather with the A/C on and do not have heat issues. Hottest track day I have done is in the 70’s and did not have a heat issue.

Cliff note version.
I believe wrap will cure your issue, vent just to be sure.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

alot of people report worse IATs and issues in stop and go with traffic with Turbo setups, FMICs and oil cooler rad stack in front.... One thing you could try as well is getting the JR Dual Rad which is and oil cooler and bigger radiator in one. Its not suited for heavy track work but street, Canyon, and light track duty its fine. As with other don't down grade. Just eliminate each potential issue 1 by 1. But welcome to modified twin life. Our engine bay stock is an oven, now add in more power, a hot turbo

Again, you are saying what people did was add an oil cooler to the front of their car, presumably in front of their FMIC, and the heat that was pulled from the engine’s core, from the engine’s oil, that was moved to the oil cooler, made its way back to the engine in the form of significantly (enough to notice) higher IATs via ambient air dissipation (air conduction)? To reiterate, IATs already go up in these conditions, but after the oil cooler, it was obvious that they had gone up more? I would love to see the data on that because that seems impossible.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by j_ros94

I guess reliability and heat issues. Cant seem to run ac in the summer without causing my car to overheat and even with the ac on it only blows hot air.

Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

What fans are you running? Why did you get slim fans? Stock fans are better than aftermarket super slim fans. Did you get a shroud with the fans? Can you go back to stock fans?

It seems to me your only problem here is the fans are not pulling the amount of air needed in stop and go traffic to cool your engine down.

That or you have issues with your cooling system, air bubble/leak/stuck thermostat/bad water pump among others.