Priming Oil System - Page 3 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

soundman98 · 09-07-2022, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Meh. There is enough residual sitting on all the oiled parts to last that few seconds.
I have pulled apart engines that have sat in a field for a decade or more that still had residual oil on everything critical.

of note though, all those motors didn't use the 0-20 mix.

that thin oil still concerns me...

Tcoat · 09-08-2022, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98

of note though, all those motors didn't use the 0-20 mix.

that thin oil still concerns me...

Still leaves a film. The engine is designed to tolerate it.

Matt93SE · 09-08-2022, 01:54 PM

Peanut gallery thought.. what about priming the system by pouring oil into the galley at the top of the block or thru the oil filter holes?
There's a farking yuge port on top of the block by the AC compressor- (16 or 18mm thread I forget now). You could easily stick a funnel on that thing and fill the engine with oil instead of the filler cap on the valve cover.

That's basically how you prime an old school water well pump-- pour a few gallons of water into the output end until there's a head built up, then fire up the pump and voila.

BUT.. that might also present the air evac problems mentioned before.. just thinking out loud.

When I put my last engine in, I certainly crossed my fingers, said a couple Hail Marys, and then counted Mississippis when I hit the ignition. the thing fired up for 1-2 seconds, clattered real bad, and shut off. I thought I broke something on the cam gears, then realized there was air in the fuel lines to be purged.
I cranked it again and after a few seconds it fired up and clattered until the cam thingies built oil pressure and it all ran smooth like buttah.

Plug and pray!

Ultramaroon · 09-08-2022, 03:05 PM

There are, for the sake of definition, several modes of lubrication. In this case we are concerned with the transition from thin film to hydrodynamic. We depend on thin film lubrication with every cold start. If the film stayed cool, we wouldn't even need the oil pump.

Stirring any fluid raises its temp. Viscosity drops as temp increases. (I know - duh) We're safe as long as the lubrication mode switches to hydrodynamic before the film gets too hot. That's it in a nutshell.

KillerBMotorsport · 09-08-2022, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt93SE

Peanut gallery thought.. what about priming the system by pouring oil into the galley at the top of the block or thru the oil filter holes?

Same premise as to why you don't want to fill a filter with oil beforehand. Anything that makes it harder for the pump to move the air out of the system and replace it with oil, is going to increase the time it takes to prime.

Priming is really done once the oil gets sucked into the pump and that first bit gets squeezed by the pump. After that point, the engine passages fill rapidly.

Capt Spaulding · 09-10-2022, 02:51 PM

I believe we sometimes overthink these things. I am certain I do.

Ultramaroon · 09-10-2022, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

I believe we sometimes overthink these things. I am certain I do.

Are you sure about that?

Capt Spaulding · 09-11-2022, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Are you sure about that?

humfrz · 09-11-2022, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

I believe we sometimes overthink these things. I am certain I do.

You may want to think about -

Tcoat · 09-12-2022, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

I believe we sometimes overthink these things. I am certain I do.

THIS ^

There are no instructions anyplace other than YouTube "experts" that say you should prefill the filter.

Even the filter does not say to prefill the filter!

DarkPira7e · 09-12-2022, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat

THIS ^

There are no instructions anyplace other than YouTube "experts" that say you should prefill the filter.

Even the filter does not say to prefill the filter!

It's like they think the manufacturer doesn't want the car to have as much reliability as possible. Some of the nonsense invented by enthusiasm is just...well, their heart is in the right place. Sometimes the best thing you can do is follow directions though.

Ultramaroon · 09-12-2022, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Even the filter does not say to prefill the filter!

Step-2 clearly shows the filter being filled with oil.

NoHaveMSG · 09-12-2022, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Step-2 clearly shows the filter being filled with oil.

Are you sure? It looks like they are lubing the forming die after cleaning.

Ultramaroon · 09-12-2022, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Are you sure? It looks like they are lubing the forming die after cleaning.

Dammit! I don't know. Maybe there's a youtube video that can help.

09-08-2022, 03:05 PM	#32
Ultramaroon 義理チョコ Join Date: Sep 2014 Drives: a 13 e8h frs Location: vantucky, wa Posts: 31,870 Thanks: 52,132 Thanked 36,520 Times in 18,921 Posts Mentioned: 1107 Post(s) Tagged: 9 Thread(s)	There are, for the sake of definition, several modes of lubrication. In this case we are concerned with the transition from thin film to hydrodynamic. We depend on thin film lubrication with every cold start. If the film stayed cool, we wouldn't even need the oil pump. Stirring any fluid raises its temp. Viscosity drops as temp increases. (I know - duh) We're safe as long as the lubrication mode switches to hydrodynamic before the film gets too hot. That's it in a nutshell. __________________ service manuals

09-10-2022, 02:51 PM	#34
Capt Spaulding Persona Non Grata Join Date: Nov 2015 Drives: '15 BRZ (WRB) Location: On the Border Posts: 1,882 Thanks: 2,016 Thanked 2,780 Times in 1,200 Posts Mentioned: 10 Post(s) Tagged: 1 Thread(s)	I believe we sometimes overthink these things. I am certain I do. __________________ Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast

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09-08-2022, 01:54 PM	#31
Matt93SE Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2020 Drives: 2013 FR-S, 2017 BRZ Location: Houston-ish Posts: 115 Thanks: 21 Thanked 108 Times in 59 Posts Mentioned: 2 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Peanut gallery thought.. what about priming the system by pouring oil into the galley at the top of the block or thru the oil filter holes? There's a farking yuge port on top of the block by the AC compressor- (16 or 18mm thread I forget now). You could easily stick a funnel on that thing and fill the engine with oil instead of the filler cap on the valve cover. That's basically how you prime an old school water well pump-- pour a few gallons of water into the output end until there's a head built up, then fire up the pump and voila. BUT.. that might also present the air evac problems mentioned before.. just thinking out loud. When I put my last engine in, I certainly crossed my fingers, said a couple Hail Marys, and then counted Mississippis when I hit the ignition. the thing fired up for 1-2 seconds, clattered real bad, and shut off. I thought I broke something on the cam gears, then realized there was air in the fuel lines to be purged. I cranked it again and after a few seconds it fired up and clattered until the cam thingies built oil pressure and it all ran smooth like buttah. Plug and pray!

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