KPower Industries K24 swap

[Jdmjunkie]

Originally Posted by Ebush

Luckily I tightened my bolt before installing the pan. Kpower sent me an email and said they went through and checked all the pans at the shop and none of them are welded at the corner of the pan like mine. He is sending me a slim drain bolt to try. Unfortunately if it isn’t here by Thursday then I won’t be testing it until maybe March when I change the oil. If you feel like your drain is as far towards the corner as possible maybe have Kpower send you this bolt. Here is a link to it.

https://www.belmetric.com/m14x15-plu...ug-p-6044.html

So if I understand this correctly, you have a oil pan with a manufactures defect and their answer is to send you a bolt, not a new pan that has been correctly welded together? Did you not want a new pan?

[captain awesome]

So I was looking into wiring a flex fuel sensor into the Haltech using the harness provided. Since you'd have to trace the jumper board pin out to see what's what I decided to drop Kpower a line in hopes to skip all that.



This is what they said

Good news! We've already made the provisions to run a flex fuel sensor quickly and easily. The Flex Fuel sensor signal is run off connector B, pin 8 on the Haltech ECU. All you need to do is go into the main setup on the ESP software, and set the Flex Fuel Composition Input to pin B8 (SPI1). From there, you'll have to set up the edge and sensor type according to which sensor you have. Once you have that setup, the rest is easy. Find the 8 pin connector (AC2) that runs right next to the main 54 pin connector that you'll plug the engine harness into. Everything you need is in the 8 pin connector. On that 8 pin connector, the 3 wires you'll need are as follows:


Pin 1 (light green/red stripe): 12V power
Pin 2 (white): Ground
Pin 3 (red/ green stripe): flex fuel sensor signal


We will be offering a complete plug and play option for this in the near future, with an 8 pin connector that plugs right into AC2 and runs directly to a 3 pin connector that plugs right onto the GM flex fuel sensor. Fuel lines will also be provided in that kit. If this is something you need to get going right away, you can splice into the wires provided above.

So looks like all I need to source at this point is a male 8 pin connector which is basically the same as the BRZ headlight connector. I've already purchased the fittings, fuel line, sensor, and pigtail. Still deciding what injectors to go with but will get those soon enough.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by Jdmjunkie

So if I understand this correctly, you have a oil pan with a manufactures defect and their answer is to send you a bolt, not a new pan that has been correctly welded together? Did you not want a new pan?

If a $2 bolt fixes the issue then that’s a win for everyone. I don’t know about you, but I sure as hell don’t feel like pulling the engine out and replacing the pan. If the bolt doesn’t fix the issue and they want to send me a new pan, I still won’t be pulling the engine right now to replace it. I’m ready to drive my car, I can worry about how to get the oil out later on.

[Ebush]

Talked with Kpower today and they are going to try a bunch of different starters to find out what doesn’t fit. They were able to find one other k20 starter so far that doesn’t fit for them so they plan on enlarging the opening on future adapter plates.

I installed my IRP shifter today, 5th/6th gear are a bit tougher than normal to get in. I believe if your using the stock shifter and Kpower shifter plate it moves the pickup point down about an inch. So I’m guessing the IRP shifter being in the oem location is putting a slight bind on the shifter rod.

I have an Invidia N2 catback on the car. The large resonator on it nearly touches the driveshaft. Might be about 3/8”
Clearance. This can be solved by deleting the resonator. I’ll probably just end up selling the catback if it does make contact and then I can just make my own 3” setup.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by Ebush

If a $2 bolt fixes the issue then that’s a win for everyone. I don’t know about you, but I sure as hell don’t feel like pulling the engine out and replacing the pan. If the bolt doesn’t fix the issue and they want to send me a new pan, I still won’t be pulling the engine right now to replace it. I’m ready to drive my car, I can worry about how to get the oil out later on.

Did you move the engine to the left like the instructions say? Is that the left of the car like the driver’s side or the left of the engine bay when looking at the engine bay? I would think when anyone says the left that they mean the driver’s side. It also seems like going too far would just make the fitment potentially worse if you didn’t move it over, and if you did then maybe you need to not have it over so far.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

So I was looking into wiring a flex fuel sensor into the Haltech using the harness provided. Since you'd have to trace the jumper board pin out to see what's what I decided to drop Kpower a line in hopes to skip all that.

This is what they said
.

I have a Haltech flex fuel sensor and EBC that needs wiring. It is good to hear they made provisions for the flex fuel. I wonder if they made any others. If you have a link to buy stuff, please post it. The problem I have is there is practically zero tutorials online for this type of thing. What is worse, there are a million different harness and pin standards. I don’t know if Haltech sells more pins or what. I wonder when Kpower will release the flex fuel setup. Probably not for a while.

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Did you move the engine to the left like the instructions say? Is that the left of the car like the driver’s side or the left of the engine bay when looking at the engine bay? I would think when anyone says the left that they mean the driver’s side. It also seems like going too far would just make the fitment potentially worse if you didn’t move it over, and if you did then maybe you need to not have it over so far.

Yes left is the driver side. Per the instructions mine is as far to the left as possible. When I attempt to remove the drain bolt tomorrow to swap in the new one I will probably move my engine as close to center as possible. My IRP shifter is giving me a little more effort than I like for 6th gear so maybe if I center the engine it will work better. And just to be clear my drain bolt issue isn’t because I moved the engine too far, it’s just welded in the wrong spot.

[Irace86.2.0]

Does the drain bolt line up with the oil change access hole in the skid plate?

[Ebush]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Does the drain bolt line up with the oil change access hole in the skid plate?

No idea, my splitter goes back to the subframe

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I have a Haltech flex fuel sensor and EBC that needs wiring. It is good to hear they made provisions for the flex fuel. I wonder if they made any others. If you have a link to buy stuff, please post it. The problem I have is there is practically zero tutorials online for this type of thing. What is worse, there are a million different harness and pin standards. I don’t know if Haltech sells more pins or what. I wonder when Kpower will release the flex fuel setup. Probably not for a while.

They didn't mention any other options but I did see there is one pin on the jumper harness open for the Haltech DPO1 pin 18 on the 34 pin connector, which can be used for a boost control solenoid. Unfortunately without knowing what they pinned it's hard to say if it's already there just laying dormant. I "think" when you connect to the 1500 via their software you can see what is active? To me it sounds like they pre-planned future upgrades for expansion packs. Pure speculation, but the flex fuel situation kinda points that direction.



Almost forgot, I also asked if the ETA on steel flywheels has changed any.

David said:

Also, the steel flywheels just arrived today, so the wait for your swap shouldn't be too much longer!

Wahoooo!!!!

[ML]

This is the IO report for the 1500 on their base map. I also have a pinout of their harness I figured out on my own but I cannot disclose that per their request.

[captain awesome]

So looks like the only DPO spot left is A18 and it's not pre-pinned on the jumper. So for a boost control solenoid it will need to be pinned directly to the Haltech.


I need to connect my Haltech back up and take a poke around. I've been wavering on how I want to mount it and the wideband. Above the glovebox like Ebush did is so much tighter than expected so I'm probably abandoning that idea.

[Ebush]

I received the new drain bolt from kpower a little bit ago and was able to install it pretty easily. Just had to loosen all mounts and put a bottle jack between the driver frame rail and engine mount to push the engine towards the passenger side. Once the new bolt was installed I removed the bottle jack and tightened the mounts back down where they were previously, the bolt is accessible and able to come all the way out. I posted a video on my Instagram @ ebush86 showing the new bolt and accessibility.

[captain awesome]

Just got tracking for the steel flywheel so others should be getting similar as well.