So Overall will it fit?

[tooslow4umayne]

Alright ladies and gentlemen of the FRS forum. Im getting ready to place an order for CCW Wheels on monday but right now I'm slightly torn between offsets. The car will be on 19 x 8.5 ET 38?in the front and 19 x 9.5 ET 38? in the rear. Im trying to get the car to be as flush as possible and get that wheel to tuck that quarter panel and come extremely close. DISCLAIMER: I HAVE READ THE WILL IT FIT FORUM AND SEARCHED ON FORUMS. But its hard to distinguish the difference between a car that has 19x8.5 ET 36 and ET 38 ET 40 because it looks the same from the pictures provided. Obviously its a big difference from 36-40. What i don't want is Poke. I don't want my wheels to be poking out of the fender. I wouldn't mind running -1 up to -2 degrees camber but thats max. Let me know what you guys think! et for the front and et for the rear.! Thanks!

[tooslow4umayne]

Side note I'm also about to order some Eibach sport line springs that give the car a 1.5 inch drop.

[gramicci101]

Both of those will fit without poking, with a little camber. So go ahead and budget for a way to adjust camber, at least in the front. Also, if you're trying to tuck your wheel, Sportlines springs aren't going to do it. Read through the aggressive wheel thread and see what solutions they've come up with.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25171

[tooslow4umayne]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Both of those will fit without poking, with a little camber. So go ahead and budget for a way to adjust camber, at least in the front. Also, if you're trying to tuck your wheel, Sportlines springs aren't going to do it. Read through the aggressive wheel thread and see what solutions they've come up with.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25171

by Budgeting do you mean purchasing LCAs?
And I wanted to do a 1 inch and 1/2 drop on the car cause I don't want it to look like a tractor trailer lol. I wanna buy the wheels tonight but still a little nervous if itll rub. What do you think?

[tooslow4umayne]

was also planning on going 255 35 rear and 225 35 in the front

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by tooslow4umayne

by Budgeting do you mean purchasing LCAs?
And I wanted to do a 1 inch and 1/2 drop on the car cause I don't want it to look like a tractor trailer lol. I wanna buy the wheels tonight but still a little nervous if itll rub. What do you think?

Allot money for a way to adjust camber. Either camber plates or camber bolts for the front. Or both; they adjust camber in different ways. For the back, I'd wait to see what your camber came out to after the drop before purchasing LCAs.

Originally Posted by tooslow4umayne

was also planning on going 255 35 rear and 225 35 in the front

Do 255/30 in the rear; it has the same outside diameter as the 225/35. Although a 225/35-19 will be somewhat stretched on an 8.5" wheel and a 255/30-19 will be pretty stretched on a 9.5" wheel, so you may want to go to 235/35 and 265/30.


Depending on where you are in NJ, I can very strongly recommend @AZP Installs for any work or alignment you need done. They're great people and really know their trade.

[tooslow4umayne]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Allot money for a way to adjust camber. Either camber plates or camber bolts for the front. Or both; they adjust camber in different ways. For the back, I'd wait to see what your camber came out to after the drop before purchasing LCAs.

Do 255/30 in the rear; it has the same outside diameter as the 225/35. Although a 225/35-19 will be somewhat stretched on an 8.5" wheel and a 255/30-19 will be pretty stretched on a 9.5" wheel, so you may want to go to 235/35 and 265/30.


Depending on where you are in NJ, I can very strongly recommend @AZP Installs for any work or alignment you need done. They're great people and really know their trade.

Do you think the rear will rub?? With a 265 and a 1 1/2 inch drop

[gramicci101]

Here's an 18x9.5+38 with a 255 on it.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1876
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1855


Here's a 265 on a different offset.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1796


They might rub, because of the +38 offset. It seems like low 40's works best for a 9.5. You need to post in the meaty tire thread (the above links) and the aggressive wheel thread and ask them.

[gramicci101]

Here's a post from the resident expert at fitting wide tires under small cars that may help you.

Originally Posted by Jive Turkey

running a 9.5 in the front with a meaty tire on stock struts is just more hassle than its worth and as you saw from king tuts post on the first page, the clearance is incredibly tight and to make it work you really gotta pull that strut in and have a really low yet stiff spring. This is why those going to springs should really stick with the 17x9 +35-ish formula with a 245 tires. That is a spot on fit for htese cars and is more than plenty of tire for the car given you run something decent and not nakangs or other garbage.

if you're asking about 2mm difference, you've got some reading to do man. read and comprehend what people are telling you and what others wrote in here. if you're already on coilovers you will be fine. you may rub on hard dips and like i said in my first post YOU WILL RUB ON THE REAR BUMPER COVER TABS so dremel that shit off or let the tire do it for you.

what kind of 255 tire are you going to run? not all tires are created equal.

if you don't want to roll rear to run minimal camber go to -2.2 front and -2 rear if you can even adjust the rear. make sure who ever does the alignment toes in the rear. Total toe in .18 roughly. Keep in mind that your rear is not adjustable camber factory so you will need an LCA if you want to fix that because as you lower the rear it will camber in-i highly suggest SPC, but if you want to spend money then go SPL. Those are my only two recommendations just because i've seen so many and know how pain in the fucking ass it is to adjust arms like the cusco for example.

i dont think alignment stuff was posted in detail in this thread before so here is a quick explanation of how things basically work on this car and generally on all cars in terms of geometry. Keep in mind we have McPherson strut front and double wishbones rear. i'll explain why i talk about more camber up front, less camber in rear and toe in rear, toe out front. i should probably copy this into the OP.

so camber...basically in order to maximize cornering force from your tires, the tire must be square on the road during a corner to achieve max grip. If your car had zero camber (all tires square to the road when driving straight), as soon as you turn, the body will roll to the outside, and the outer tires will roll only on the outsides of the tires. Thats why if you ever drove a car with stock alignment hard in turns, you'll see the outsides of the tires worn.

Because of the twin's suspension geometry. Simply put, as the car rolls in a turn, the outside wheels' suspension compresses (makes sense right?). The rear suspension was designed to gain negative camber as it compresses. So as the body rolls, the tire does not roll over as much as the car's body roll, maximizing the tire's contact patch. The front suspension is different, it does not gain significant negative camber as it compresses (during body roll in a corner), and therefore allows the tire to roll over to the outside edge, minimizing traction. This is why you must give the front end more negative camber to begin with. (Another very popular BRZ trick is to run a stiff front sway bar, to limit the front body roll and maximize tire contact).

now toe..Toe-in will stabilize the car, making it track straight and not want to change direction. Toe out does the opposite, makes it twitchy, and want to change direction quickly. A car is more responsive with toe out, but significantly less stable. Just a basic definition.

FRONT Of CAR - Toe-out in the front lets the car turn in nicely, but may "tramline" down the road (finding grooves and irregularities and following them). Toe-in front makes the car hard to turn and want to "push" or understeer. I suggest going with total toe out front of -0.1 (so about -.05 per side)

REAR OF CAR - Toe-out in the rear is pretty dangerous for RWD cars, makes the car want to spin, especially under hard braking. Toe-in rear will keep the rear stable, and (here is the key) allow for you to put power down as early and as hard as possible without wheel spin. More is not always better, racers will always adjust these settings till they get it just right. For the street, the suggested settings will let you set-it-and-forget-it. Negative camber does not kill tires. Negative camber plus excessive toe (in or out) causes inner tire wear. Toe (in or out) in effect forces the car to "drag" the tire down the road, where 0 toe lets the tire roll down the road. Make sense? Negative camber will cause the tire to roll on the inside of the tire, but negative camber plus excessive toe will drag the inside of the tire down the road causing bad inner tire wear.


TLDR: yes 255/35/18 on 18x9.5 +38 will fit just fine with coilovers. i now have no wheel gap all around and i'm perfectly fine. no rub no drama. But i'm rolled in rear and did alot of triming to rear bumper. If anyone is in NJ drop by @AZP Installs and i'd be happy to show you around the car.

-Ivan