ST Coilover Pics

[chanomatik]

Thanks! I was heavily considering Mach V lowering springs, but I'm thinking now that I want simple, yet quality coilovers just for more drop and to give the stock struts some relief. Throwing aftermarket springs on stock struts hasn't always been my favorite solution, especially since I already have over 30k miles on the car.

[continuecrushing]

Ill get some pics up soon, but for reference:

Stock I was 4.75" from fender to edge of wheel(rim), all 4.
After installing the st coilovers, they are set as such:
Front-which is 7 full turns(on the height adjustment collar) from the bottom has me at 3.5" from fender to wheel(rim)
Rear-which is 15 full turns from the bottom has me at 2.75" from fender to collar.

These measurements are after a day or two of sitting, and ill report back in a week if they've settled at all. I will be raising the rear up to match the front drop height, however.

[FT-86 SpeedFactory]

Best coils out there under $1000 no questions asked.

[Krispeee]

What's the spring rate on the ST?


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[Calavera]

ST out of the box.


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[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by Shutter

Ill get some pics up soon, but for reference:

Stock I was 4.75" from fender to edge of wheel(rim), all 4.
After installing the st coilovers, they are set as such:
Front-which is 7 full turns(on the height adjustment collar) from the bottom has me at 3.5" from fender to wheel(rim)
Rear-which is 15 full turns from the bottom has me at 2.75" from fender to collar.

These measurements are after a day or two of sitting, and ill report back in a week if they've settled at all. I will be raising the rear up to match the front drop height, however.

Originally Posted by Calavera

Attachment 60049Attachment 60050
ST out of the box.


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Thanks for providing the info I've been searching for for awhile! Looks like my Sportline drop so I'll keep the factory settings when I receive and install mine.

I guess the strut rod is allen keyed? Anyone know the size of the strut rod's keying (stock is 5mm and 6mm) and the strut top nut size? Curious if everything is "normal" and not unusually sized (like an oversized top nut or rod keyed beyond the range of my hex bit set) in which case I'd have to buy more hardware.

[continuecrushing]

The nuts on the st strut and the Allen/hex heads are different as well, but I believe it was just a standard vs metric size thing. No insanely weird size will be needed.

Make sure you have a pass through wrench set to make things a lot easier during install.

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by Shutter

The nuts on the st strut and the Allen/hex heads are different as well, but I believe it was just a standard vs metric size thing. No insanely weird size will be needed.

Make sure you have a pass through wrench set to make things a lot easier during install.

Yup, I've got a pass thru and allen key set. Just ordered long hex bit sockets which I'll be able to use w/ my torque wrench to [finally, for the first time in my life] torque top nuts to spec!

But my pass thru sockets, hex bit sockets, and allen key set are all metric. So you're saying the ST requires SAE (English, not metric) hardware? Weird, thought it was identical to the KW V1 which should be metric.

[continuecrushing]

Ill double check, but when I was doing the install 1/2 asleep(at 3am lol), I think the hex was a different size than the stock ones...however, it might have just been the front nuts of the st coilovers that were different(sae vs metric)

Ill check in a few minutes @switchlanez

[continuecrushing]

Okay, so here's the breakdown.

Bolts and nut for bottom of strut/knuckle are 19mm

Top of stock struts are 12mm(that hold the strut to the car)
The stock rear strut nut is 14mm
Front stock nut is 17mm
Stock hex is 6mm front
Stock rear hex is 5mm


The nut on the top of the ST front strut is 19mm or 3/4
ST allen/hex on the front ST strut is 5mm
ST allen/hex on the rear ST strut is 5mm
The top of the rear ST strut is 16mm


Never said "nut" so many times before lol. I didn't have a pass through wrench set, so I was ghetto and used vice grips with the right size socket for the the top of the strut+the proper Allen wrench. Not suggested by any means, but if you really want to get the install done lol.
The rear strut/spring wasn't under much tension, but the stock front strut/spring has a "pop" to it when it comes off. I had the strut on the ground with an old rug/towel on it so when the top hat comes off, nothing flew anywhere/destroyed anything. Once again, not suggested, but how I did it.
Lastly, the rear ST coilover is easy to get the top hat on, just lower the height collar all the way down, and there is little/no spring tension. For the front ST coilover/top hat, I suggest having another person help push down on the top hat while you get the nut threaded on the shaft a little bit. If you don't have someone else to help(I did not), you can get a chair and a piece of wood(2x4 is what I used). Place the chair in a safe location, and place the strut in front of the chair. Now, place the wood between the two(the edge of the wood is on the top hat), and sit on the wood. Your weight will help compress the spring, and you should be able to get the nut threaded on a bit. This certainly is the worst of my ghetto ideas, but it worked lol. Use with MUCH caution.

[switchlanez]

Originally Posted by Shutter

Okay, so here's the breakdown.

Bolts and nut for bottom of strut/knuckle are 19mm

Top of stock struts are 12mm(that hold the strut to the car)
The stock rear strut nut is 14mm
Front stock nut is 17mm
Stock hex is 6mm front
Stock rear hex is 5mm


The nut on the top of the ST front strut is 19mm or 3/4
ST allen/hex on the front ST strut is 5mm
ST allen/hex on the rear ST strut is 5mm
The top of the rear ST strut is 16mm


Never said "nut" so many times before lol. I didn't have a pass through wrench set, so I was ghetto and used vice grips with the right size socket for the the top of the strut+the proper Allen wrench. Not suggested by any means, but if you really want to get the install done lol.
The rear strut/spring wasn't under much tension, but the stock front strut/spring has a "pop" to it when it comes off. I had the strut on the ground with an old rug/towel on it so when the top hat comes off, nothing flew anywhere/destroyed anything. Once again, not suggested, but how I did it.
Lastly, the rear ST coilover is easy to get the top hat on, just lower the height collar all the way down, and there is little/no spring tension. For the front ST coilover/top hat, I suggest having another person help push down on the top hat while you get the nut threaded on the shaft a little bit. If you don't have someone else to help(I did not), you can get a chair and a piece of wood(2x4 is what I used). Place the chair in a safe location, and place the strut in front of the chair. Now, place the wood between the two(the edge of the wood is on the top hat), and sit on the wood. Your weight will help compress the spring, and you should be able to get the nut threaded on a bit. This certainly is the worst of my ghetto ideas, but it worked lol. Use with MUCH caution.

And interesting ghetto tips lol. I may just rent a spring compressor, NBD.

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by switchlanez

And interesting ghetto tips lol. I may just rent a spring compressor, NBD.

That, or I saw someone mention undoing the nut while the car is on the ground so that nothing flies off/uncompress's quickly. Doesn't help too much with the install on the ST however.

As a side note, I raised the rear coilover collar's 5 turns(so my rear are now 20 turns from the lowest setting) and my rear ride height matches the front...3.5" from fender to edge of wheel/rim

[armythug]

Are camber plates needed if you had 18x9.5 +38 all around? I might go ahead and pull the trigger on these. And if so, which plates would you guys recommend? Or could I just get away with crash bolts?

Thanks

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by armythug

Are camber plates needed if you had 18x9.5 +38 all around? I might go ahead and pull the trigger on these. And if so, which plates would you guys recommend? Or could I just get away with crash bolts?

Thanks

Camber plates are not needed. I am currently running 18x9 +40 with 245/40/18, and I now have PLENTY of room between the tire/wheel and coilover. I haven't done my alignment yet, but I'm expecting to have between -1.5 and -2 camber up front with just the ST coilovers). Camber plates are used when you're trying to get lots of negative camber, or to ensure that you can dial in the exact alignment settings you want. For a dd, you will be fine without camber plates. What's best? If later down the road you want to get camber plates, they'll be a simple bolt on/addition to the ST's. As far as crash bolts go, they work, but I'm not really a fan of them...just a personal opinion.
Hit up Jurrian @ModBargains.com for ordering(great price, AND a forum vendor)

What are your ultimate goals as far as camber are concerned? Unless you need lots of adjustment, you'll probably be fine with the slotted front struts. As far as the rear camber adjustment, you'll need the whiteline rear camber kit or adjustable rear lower control arms(usually the preferred method-and made by many different vendors;stance, whiteline, cusco spc etc). Once again, the rear control arms/camber adjustment won't be needed with the ST's(or any other coilover)...but they would be a nice addition. Again, what are your overall goals for the car? How much do you want to lower it etc etc...