Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[peaches]

Originally Posted by ICauseCalamity

I think that would be a great place for me to start. 325 sounds like a lot of fun. So if I were to want to achieve 325 I should look at the JRSC Kit and their Oil cooler as well as larger injectors and an upgraded fuel pump? Have you had any issues with the stock clutch? Any other mods you might recommend? The reliability factor is a big for me as I want this to be a daily (in the 300ish range ofc, if I ever decide to go bigger no doubt it would be a weekend only car).

If you're still planning to go over 400 at some point, upgrade the radiator while you're at it. I have an ACT stage 3 clutch, did that long before the SC in preparation. I have hood louvers on mine, but I live in FL and I beat the shit out of it on track (it gets REALLY HOT).

It might be obvious, but you'll need a full exhaust system if you want to get to 325. Make sure the header is ceramic coated and suited for FI, I love the CSG catback.

Like Mike said, go for the 300 fuel pump. I have 1,200 cc injectors, would like to forge the engine at some point but I don't have the money yet. An AOS\catch can could be a good thing, that might be the next thing I do.

You're going to have to spend some time making sure trim pieces are in place so the cores get the proper airflow, it took me a few weeks and some custom work to dial that in.

You don't need to upgrade your brakes unless it's a track car, but make sure they're in proper working order. The last thing you want is to be having fun anywhere and not be able to stop properly.

I have a tune from Delicious but in hindsight, I should have gone with CSG. They are a great vendor and source of knowledge.

[jim985]

Just had my new C38 kit tuned today.

Seem to be getting a bit under the standard result.

Running full exhaust with catless header and 98 RON (Australia)

This Dyno reads a stock BRZ as 136 lb.ft and 148 HP

peak boost measured as 8.7 psi. So I got no idea why its not making more power and torque

[tomm.brz]

Steve said many times that 98ron fuel is a bit shitty Down under

Torque curve doesn't look so bad, you can probably be just knock limited

Why don't you upgrade to flex fuel since you have high quality e85 there ?

[ML]

sorry if I missed it but what pulley do you have?

[jim985]

9 psi pulley. E85 is not super easy to get where I live, and a proper flex fuel kit is a bit out of my reach right now.

[peaches]

That seems spot on, I believe there's a claimed "close to 100 whp gain" somewhere. Without a smaller pulley or E-85 it's very close to that.

[Matt93SE]

So update on my problems.. I hope I found the (only) issue.
I kept digging and never saw anything wrong on the car. engine was re-tuned and no issues on the dyno.

I entered for a race at COTA last weekend and since I hadn't been there with this car, I did the practice day. Glad I did since the car completely shredded another belt while on track. While looking at the pulleys (for the 10000th time!), I could finally see some misalignment between the S/C and the A/C compressor pulleys. before it was invisible even with straightedge, etc..

I could also grab the top of the S/C and move it a little-- not normal. So I pulled the whole thing off and started digging deeper. I finally flipped the S/C over in the engine bay while I was trying to find a place to rest it without disconnecting the oil lines. Then I noticed this...

Faaak. plain ol' fatigue crack that I never noticed until it was bad enough to permanently deform the bracket. Looking at the design of the bracket itself, it only mounts to the lower three bolts on the S/C, which is supported by standoff rods holding everything away from the block several inches. these are ideal conditions for vibration and fatigue.

I called JR and they had replacement brackets in stock, but it was Friday afternoon-- even if I forked up the money for Next Day Air, Saturday Early AM delivery, the part found its way to COTA on time and I found where they delivered it to the track, I'd still miss qualifying and have to start in the back of a >50 car field while the pole in my class was qualified 12th overall.

I just wasn't in the mood to thrash all weekend and deal with fighting 40 cars to get to the front (I would have to fight my way through all the mid-pack Larrys with tons of power and no skillz!!), so I put the car in the trailer and came home.

The replacement mounting bracket should arrive in the mail today, and I'm going to find a way to triangulate some bracing on the top over to the A/C compressor or some other way to support the S/C and reduce the vibration so I can hopefully prevent future fatigue cracks...

[ML]

Originally Posted by Matt93SE

So update on my problems.. I hope I found the (only) issue.
I kept digging and never saw anything wrong on the car. engine was re-tuned and no issues on the dyno.

I entered for a race at COTA last weekend and since I hadn't been there with this car, I did the practice day. Glad I did since the car completely shredded another belt while on track. While looking at the pulleys (for the 10000th time!), I could finally see some misalignment between the S/C and the A/C compressor pulleys. before it was invisible even with straightedge, etc..

I could also grab the top of the S/C and move it a little-- not normal. So I pulled the whole thing off and started digging deeper. I finally flipped the S/C over in the engine bay while I was trying to find a place to rest it without disconnecting the oil lines. Then I noticed this...

Faaak. plain ol' fatigue crack that I never noticed until it was bad enough to permanently deform the bracket. Looking at the design of the bracket itself, it only mounts to the lower three bolts on the S/C, which is supported by standoff rods holding everything away from the block several inches. these are ideal conditions for vibration and fatigue.

I called JR and they had replacement brackets in stock, but it was Friday afternoon-- even if I forked up the money for Next Day Air, Saturday Early AM delivery, the part found its way to COTA on time and I found where they delivered it to the track, I'd still miss qualifying and have to start in the back of a >50 car field while the pole in my class was qualified 12th overall.

I just wasn't in the mood to thrash all weekend and deal with fighting 40 cars to get to the front (I would have to fight my way through all the mid-pack Larrys with tons of power and no skillz!!), so I put the car in the trailer and came home.

The replacement mounting bracket should arrive in the mail today, and I'm going to find a way to triangulate some bracing on the top over to the A/C compressor or some other way to support the S/C and reduce the vibration so I can hopefully prevent future fatigue cracks...

that's some terrible luck! I would be interested to see how you are able to add a support to it though.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by jim985

Just had my new C38 kit tuned today.

Seem to be getting a bit under the standard result.

Running full exhaust with catless header and 98 RON (Australia)

This Dyno reads a stock BRZ as 136 lb.ft and 148 HP

peak boost measured as 8.7 psi. So I got no idea why its not making more power and torque

148whp -> 239whp is a ~61% gain. That's the same as 170whp -> 273whp.

Seems like your results are spot on.

Remember, this is why absolute numbers have zero meaning. % gain is what matters.

Anyone can flex a high WHP number on a generously reading or altered dyno, and folks frequently do.


It's no different from 700whp MKIV supra owners getting sour when they lose to 500whp MKV supras. Does the number really matter when you're going faster?

[Matt93SE]

Originally Posted by ML

that's some terrible luck! I would be interested to see how you are able to add a support to it though.

I'll post a pic when I come up with something. next week or so maybe. my next race isn't until april, unless I want to drive ~13hrs 1-way to Road Atlanta. (want? yes! afford? no)

Since I don't have A/C anymore and just using the compressor for an idler pulley, I will likely use one of the mounting holes on top of it for an attachment point. someone that still has A/C lines attached might not be able to use it.

[jim985]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

148whp -> 239whp is a ~61% gain. That's the same as 170whp -> 273whp.

Seems like your results are spot on.

Remember, this is why absolute numbers have zero meaning. % gain is what matters.

Anyone can flex a high WHP number on a generously reading or altered dyno, and folks frequently do.


It's no different from 700whp MKIV supra owners getting sour when they lose to 500whp MKV supras. Does the number really matter when you're going faster?

Don't get me wrong the car feels good and its so much more fun now, and I doubt 20 more Hp will make my laps times any better at my current level of track experience anyway.

The size of the number is unimportant, I was more concerned that there might be something wrong with my install/tune/rotrex. It was mainly the torque that I thought was a bit low.

Maybe I am just being paranoid, first time I have supercharged anything.

Very tempted to just get the HBP and push for a bit more...

[tomm.brz]

If you are knock limited now, adding boost and stress to engine and keeping using fuel that doesn't take it well (i trust steve99 and Wayne as they say AUS 98Ron is not so good)
will probably give you just more troubles and not necessarily more power
you could even make less power potentially if fuel is shitty enough

[86Hakone]

I plan on installing the C38 kit with HBP as soon as I get the rest of my order from CSG. I purchased the Crawford AOS v3 a while back but never installed it. I asked Jackson racing about compatibility and they told me they don't recommend an AOS or catch can as its not needed.

The question I have for anyone who knows or runs this setup without issues. What extra stuff did you do when it was installed to ensure compatibility and proper function?

Some digging around indicates that some have zero issues while others say it needs extra check valves. Everything I know about boxers would lead me to believe oil vapor is gonna get in the intake without an AOS.

[Matt93SE]

I see a small amount of oil in my intake and I have Radium dual catch cans, but they never fill up. I also don't lose any oil (at least not that I can see from the dipstick) on a race weekend, which is about 2hrs of track time.

for street use, I wouldn't worry about it. for track use, add catch cans and an AOS.