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Old 11-29-2022, 01:25 PM   #5825
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This is totally do able and its part of my plan with my rotrex on the k24 next year. You are technically right that a waste gate is for turbo excess exhaust gasses to control boost but you can control boost on a SC with a blow off valve connected to a boost controller that is being controlled with a stand alone ECU. I think a stand alone is really the key here as it allows a lot of data to tune it correctly and you can even get close so something like a traction control or torque management with the right sensors. JD with Quantum performance in Australia has already proven this isn't just theory on his custom built k series based compound rotrex turbo supercar he built from scratch. there is a lot going on in the world of rotrex outside of the JRSC/86 on other platforms especially honda that has a ton of information.
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I swear I will punch your car if you put these on. Right in the face.
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Old 11-29-2022, 02:21 PM   #5826
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i understand what im about to ask may be an unintelligent question and seeing as I havent come across much info on the internet, it likely is but hear me out.

Has anyone run an electronic boost controller on a centrifugal supercharger, my logic behind it is boost by gear. I know it doesnt make sense on the stock 7 or 9 psi pulley but with something like a RS pulley (assume built engine and supporting mods for this caliber of build) and an EBC you could bleed off boost in 1st, 5th and 6th gears and go for all the juice in 2nd-4th or adjust to your liking. I understand why people use an EBC in turbo cars and why superchargers dont have boost controllers but im thinking a little out of the box here, it could allow for quite some flexibility if someone wants to run high boost with no turbo lag but not always have all the boost available the way a SC gives it.....am I crazy?
Sure have (run boost controlled superchargers). It's only really useful in select settings (e.g. classing), as your intercooling will be taking quite a large heat penalty.
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Old 11-29-2022, 02:52 PM   #5827
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hm im going to try and do more research and see how practical this is lol
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Old 01-06-2023, 10:19 PM   #5828
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Exactly that. If it's crunchy, you need a new Rotrex unit. Keep the Rotrex fluid lines on for this.
yes, after months of it sitting, figuring out if i feel like dropping 3 grand on getting it diagnosed and fixed, brought it to a shop, they pulled the belt i guess, crunchy to spin the rotrex turbine, new c30 unit on the way. new unit is 2,200$ right now, splendid

if your jackson racing super charger is starting to make an increased whine, increased sound like this, its dying lol, pronounced whine, im trying to use all the keywords i searched for when trying to figure out this problem initially.

oh, and i let it sit in my driveway for 4 months before bringing it to a shop that now my brakes are rusted and i need new rotors and pads, and new battery. dont be like me kids
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Old 01-07-2023, 10:40 AM   #5829
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Lookup uk supercharger repair on Facebook. I sent my c38 to him and he fixed it up good and put a billet turbine/fan in for about a grand. People will tell you they can’t be repaired but they most definitely can.
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Old 01-08-2023, 11:39 PM   #5830
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Lookup uk supercharger repair on Facebook. I sent my c38 to him and he fixed it up good and put a billet turbine/fan in for about a grand. People will tell you they canít be repaired but they most definitely can.
I have one that was roached within a few miles as I managed to hook up the oil in/out lines backwards. 🤬. Literally brand new otherwise, ran the poor thing dry on the first low rpm test drive. If I could get it rebuilt Iíd be happy to hold onto it as a backup or sell it to someone in need.
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Old 01-09-2023, 03:03 PM   #5831
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Lookup uk supercharger repair on Facebook. I sent my c38 to him and he fixed it up good and put a billet turbine/fan in for about a grand. People will tell you they canít be repaired but they most definitely can.
Yes, they can rebuild them. But everyone I have seen (15+) has died within a couple hundred miles. If your's is still alive, consider yourself lucky.
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Old 01-25-2023, 06:21 AM   #5832
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OK I just read through all 417 pages of this over the last 4 days and I think most of my questions have been answered but I still would clarification on a couple things.

Can I run the Carb tune with e85, full catless exhaust, water/meth injection, and under drive pulleys?

If I am trying to throw a tetherball at a figure skater while someone is holding onto the rope and they let go 0.4 seconds before I release the ball will it accelerate in that time due to the change in force resisting my forward movement?

Now that the jokes are out of the way the real questions can start: my car is a 2017 BRZ MT mostly DD with autoX and mountain adventures. It currently has a Tomei UEL and catted front pipe (i think OEM but not 100% as it was on the car when I bought it.)

I've seen mixed comments about whether the c30 or c38 kits are identical aside from the rotrex. All of the information I'm finding for the c30 including JR's website only lists compatibility up to 2016. I've also heard that the 2017 c38 kit had something for a washer reservoir relocation? From what I can tell the c30 might make more sense for my use case but I'd rather get the c38 if it's a better fit. I plan on doing some maintenance stuff for this car before I throw the JRSC on there but if I can save some hassle in the process id rather add supporting mods while I'm at it.

I know I want FF as I've never really played with it and just found out that there's a station about 1/4mi out of my way for everything so that's going in fairly soon. So far I'm leaning towards the ptuning kit but noticed that there was some interference with the SC oil reservoir lines. Is relocating it just a matter of changing the location of the bracket or would new lines need to be fabbed to get it to the intake like a previous post showed? Does the DT kit run into the same problems? Would I be running into any issues such as duty cycle or spray patterns with installing either DW700 or ID1050 injectors at the same time and running those for a while while I'm still NA? Would I actually need them if I'm on e85 plus stock pulley on the c38 (I've seen this answered as a no for the c30 but don't recall for the c38) I know if upgrade to the HBP it's definitely needed, probably fuel pump too.

I know some form of oil cooling would be needed where I am as summers get triple digits for about two months straight. I can't "track" my car per se as my nearest track is at least 8 hours away but is autoX too much for the DROC even with hood vents? Is there a reason I couldn't run the DROC and JROC in series if it isn't and I add the JROC after I find out?

As far as hood vents go I've been in a pretty big toss up between the trackspec vents and Seibon FA style hood. Obviously, cost is a factor but is there any major difference in cooling ability?

Are their any pros/cons for a fluidampr on a stock engine with the JRSC?

If I'm replacing my coil packs is something the like the DT OEM+ going to make a difference or should I just stick with new OE units. It seems crazy to me that stock plugs and coils can stand up to the SC as everything in my experience says you have to change both for FI.

I haven't seen anything about the JR high performance bypass valve being used. Does anybody have any feedback on it? Is it still plastic?

Has anybody had any experience with the Verus AOS under boost? I'm curious if there's any boost/vacuum leak across the chambers.

Thanks for any answers. This thread has already been really informative and helpful with a bunch of things aside from the JRSC so thanks to everybody who put such great information in here.

And yes, I know you'll be happy to help me when I decide to order. I'll go through you guys for sure.

Last edited by PikachuBRZ; 01-25-2023 at 06:38 AM.
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Old 01-25-2023, 08:51 AM   #5833
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Originally Posted by PikachuBRZ View Post
OK I just read through all 417 pages of this over the last 4 days and I think most of my questions have been answered but I still would clarification on a couple things.

Can I run the Carb tune with e85, full catless exhaust, water/meth injection, and under drive pulleys? No you cant

If I am trying to throw a tetherball at a figure skater while someone is holding onto the rope and they let go 0.4 seconds before I release the ball will it accelerate in that time due to the change in force resisting my forward movement?

Now that the jokes are out of the way the real questions can start: my car is a 2017 BRZ MT mostly DD with autoX and mountain adventures. It currently has a Tomei UEL and catted front pipe (i think OEM but not 100% as it was on the car when I bought it.)

I've seen mixed comments about whether the c30 or c38 kits are identical aside from the rotrex. All of the information I'm finding for the c30 including JR's website only lists compatibility up to 2016. I've also heard that the 2017 c38 kit had something for a washer reservoir relocation? From what I can tell the c30 might make more sense for my use case but I'd rather get the c38 if it's a better fit. I plan on doing some maintenance stuff for this car before I throw the JRSC on there but if I can save some hassle in the process id rather add supporting mods while I'm at it.
Unless you have a built engine there is no real reason to go c38. A c30 with a highboost pulley is something like 300whp on e85, a c38 gets you another 100.





I know I want FF as I've never really played with it and just found out that there's a station about 1/4mi out of my way for everything so that's going in fairly soon. So far I'm leaning towards the ptuning kit but noticed that there was some interference with the SC oil reservoir lines. Is relocating it just a matter of changing the location of the bracket or would new lines need to be fabbed to get it to the intake like a previous post showed? Does the DT kit run into the same problems? Would I be running into any issues such as duty cycle or spray patterns with installing either DW700 or ID1050 injectors at the same time and running those for a while while I'm still NA? Would I actually need them if I'm on e85 plus stock pulley on the c38 (I've seen this answered as a no for the c30 but don't recall for the c38) I know if upgrade to the HBP it's definitely needed, probably fuel pump too.
I cant offer much info here but i have a 5 year old FF kit on my car and it had no issues with a c38 kit. For the power that im making i had to replace both the pump and injectors. I went with the id1050s because that is what Zach recommended.




I know some form of oil cooling would be needed where I am as summers get triple digits for about two months straight. I can't "track" my car per se as my nearest track is at least 8 hours away but is autoX too much for the DROC even with hood vents? Is there a reason I couldn't run the DROC and JROC in series if it isn't and I add the JROC after I find out?
JR makes a specific oil cooler for their SC kit and i recommend it. My car makes a TON of heat even when just highway driving.





As far as hood vents go I've been in a pretty big toss up between the trackspec vents and Seibon FA style hood. Obviously, cost is a factor but is there any major difference in cooling ability?

I have trackspec vents and they are fine. It helped with cooling when I stop it looks like a desert oasis over my hood.




Are their any pros/cons for a fluidampr on a stock engine with the JRSC?

If I'm replacing my coil packs is something the like the DT OEM+ going to make a difference or should I just stick with new OE units. It seems crazy to me that stock plugs and coils can stand up to the SC as everything in my experience says you have to change both for FI.
When I put my new engine in i replaced all the plugs and coils with new OEM. They have lasted so far. We will see with a full season this year.




I haven't seen anything about the JR high performance bypass valve being used. Does anybody have any feedback on it? Is it still plastic?

Has anybody had any experience with the Verus AOS under boost? I'm curious if there's any boost/vacuum leak across the chambers.

Thanks for any answers. This thread has already been really informative and helpful with a bunch of things aside from the JRSC so thanks to everybody who put such great information in here.

And yes, I know you'll be happy to help me when I decide to order. I'll go through you guys for sure.

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Old 01-25-2023, 11:33 AM   #5834
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Someone selling a used c30 kit in fs/ft, looks like they had it on a 2015. Will it fit on my 2017 sans issue?
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Old 01-25-2023, 03:29 PM   #5835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PikachuBRZ View Post
OK I just read through all 417 pages of this over the last 4 days and I think most of my questions have been answered but I still would clarification on a couple things.

Can I run the Carb tune with e85, full catless exhaust, water/meth injection, and under drive pulleys? LOL

If I am trying to throw a tetherball at a figure skater while someone is holding onto the rope and they let go 0.4 seconds before I release the ball will it accelerate in that time due to the change in force resisting my forward movement?

Now that the jokes are out of the way the real questions can start: my car is a 2017 BRZ MT mostly DD with autoX and mountain adventures. It currently has a Tomei UEL and catted front pipe (i think OEM but not 100% as it was on the car when I bought it.)

I've seen mixed comments about whether the c30 or c38 kits are identical aside from the rotrex. All of the information I'm finding for the c30 including JR's website only lists compatibility up to 2016. I've also heard that the 2017 c38 kit had something for a washer reservoir relocation? From what I can tell the c30 might make more sense for my use case but I'd rather get the c38 if it's a better fit. I plan on doing some maintenance stuff for this car before I throw the JRSC on there but if I can save some hassle in the process id rather add supporting mods while I'm at it. C30 and C38 make the same power on the standard pulley and High Boost Pulley. The C38 does have more overhead and has the ability to make more power than the C30. The kits are the same except for the unit size. All kits now come with the Washer Reservoir. C30 and C38 are compatible with 13-20 models. Only the Factory Tuned System is available for 13-16 models currently.

I know I want FF as I've never really played with it and just found out that there's a station about 1/4mi out of my way for everything so that's going in fairly soon. So far I'm leaning towards the ptuning kit but noticed that there was some interference with the SC oil reservoir lines. Is relocating it just a matter of changing the location of the bracket or would new lines need to be fabbed to get it to the intake like a previous post showed? Does the DT kit run into the same problems? Would I be running into any issues such as duty cycle or spray patterns with installing either DW700 or ID1050 injectors at the same time and running those for a while while I'm still NA? Would I actually need them if I'm on e85 plus stock pulley on the c38 (I've seen this answered as a no for the c30 but don't recall for the c38) I know if upgrade to the HBP it's definitely needed, probably fuel pump too. Running flex fuel will require at minimum injectors on the standard pulley. I recommend doing the fuel pump anyway. The Delicious kit seems to be better. Wait to install the injectors until you are ready to tune. You can move the SC oil lines without a problem.

I know some form of oil cooling would be needed where I am as summers get triple digits for about two months straight. I can't "track" my car per se as my nearest track is at least 8 hours away but is autoX too much for the DROC even with hood vents? Is there a reason I couldn't run the DROC and JROC in series if it isn't and I add the JROC after I find out? It depends on the power your making. For many the DROC and the supercharger is fine. Others may need the additional cooling capacity of the track cooler. If you are just doing AutoX, the DROC should be fine.

As far as hood vents go I've been in a pretty big toss up between the trackspec vents and Seibon FA style hood. Obviously, cost is a factor but is there any major difference in cooling ability? Go with Trackspeed.

Are their any pros/cons for a fluidampr on a stock engine with the JRSC? No pros or cons

If I'm replacing my coil packs is something the like the DT OEM+ going to make a difference or should I just stick with new OE units. It seems crazy to me that stock plugs and coils can stand up to the SC as everything in my experience says you have to change both for FI. Run the OE ones. They are not an issue.

I haven't seen anything about the JR high performance bypass valve being used. Does anybody have any feedback on it? Is it still plastic? It is a billet piece made by Turbosmart to be plug and play on the JR kits.

Has anybody had any experience with the Verus AOS under boost? I'm curious if there's any boost/vacuum leak across the chambers. It is not needed.

Thanks for any answers. This thread has already been really informative and helpful with a bunch of things aside from the JRSC so thanks to everybody who put such great information in here.

And yes, I know you'll be happy to help me when I decide to order. I'll go through you guys for sure.
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Old 01-25-2023, 03:30 PM   #5836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alphasaur View Post
Someone selling a used c30 kit in fs/ft, looks like they had it on a 2015. Will it fit on my 2017 sans issue?
Depends on when they purchased the kit. In 2017 the kits were slightly changed so they would also fit the 17+ bumpers.
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Old 01-25-2023, 04:38 PM   #5837
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Originally Posted by PikachuBRZ View Post
OK I just read through all 417 pages of this over the last 4 days and I think most of my questions have been answered but I still would clarification on a couple things.

Can I run the Carb tune with e85, full catless exhaust, water/meth injection, and under drive pulleys?

If I am trying to throw a tetherball at a figure skater while someone is holding onto the rope and they let go 0.4 seconds before I release the ball will it accelerate in that time due to the change in force resisting my forward movement?

Now that the jokes are out of the way the real questions can start: my car is a 2017 BRZ MT mostly DD with autoX and mountain adventures. It currently has a Tomei UEL and catted front pipe (i think OEM but not 100% as it was on the car when I bought it.)

I've seen mixed comments about whether the c30 or c38 kits are identical aside from the rotrex. All of the information I'm finding for the c30 including JR's website only lists compatibility up to 2016. I've also heard that the 2017 c38 kit had something for a washer reservoir relocation? From what I can tell the c30 might make more sense for my use case but I'd rather get the c38 if it's a better fit. I plan on doing some maintenance stuff for this car before I throw the JRSC on there but if I can save some hassle in the process id rather add supporting mods while I'm at it.

I know I want FF as I've never really played with it and just found out that there's a station about 1/4mi out of my way for everything so that's going in fairly soon. So far I'm leaning towards the ptuning kit but noticed that there was some interference with the SC oil reservoir lines. Is relocating it just a matter of changing the location of the bracket or would new lines need to be fabbed to get it to the intake like a previous post showed? Does the DT kit run into the same problems? Would I be running into any issues such as duty cycle or spray patterns with installing either DW700 or ID1050 injectors at the same time and running those for a while while I'm still NA? Would I actually need them if I'm on e85 plus stock pulley on the c38 (I've seen this answered as a no for the c30 but don't recall for the c38) I know if upgrade to the HBP it's definitely needed, probably fuel pump too.

I know some form of oil cooling would be needed where I am as summers get triple digits for about two months straight. I can't "track" my car per se as my nearest track is at least 8 hours away but is autoX too much for the DROC even with hood vents? Is there a reason I couldn't run the DROC and JROC in series if it isn't and I add the JROC after I find out?

As far as hood vents go I've been in a pretty big toss up between the trackspec vents and Seibon FA style hood. Obviously, cost is a factor but is there any major difference in cooling ability?

Are their any pros/cons for a fluidampr on a stock engine with the JRSC?

If I'm replacing my coil packs is something the like the DT OEM+ going to make a difference or should I just stick with new OE units. It seems crazy to me that stock plugs and coils can stand up to the SC as everything in my experience says you have to change both for FI.

I haven't seen anything about the JR high performance bypass valve being used. Does anybody have any feedback on it? Is it still plastic?

Has anybody had any experience with the Verus AOS under boost? I'm curious if there's any boost/vacuum leak across the chambers.

Thanks for any answers. This thread has already been really informative and helpful with a bunch of things aside from the JRSC so thanks to everybody who put such great information in here.

And yes, I know you'll be happy to help me when I decide to order. I'll go through you guys for sure.
The Ptuning FF kit will fit with the Rotrex reservoir.

You'll need a JR 4 BAR MAP and injectors for E85, along with the FF kit. I recommend ID1050X for their consistency and spray pattern.

Stock coil packs are fine if they're in good shape. Otherwise, I recommend IP Plasma.

You'll also need a clutch if manual transmission.

A catch can will help keep your MAF clean, as well as your charge piping.

Fluidampr is always a great idea.

Trackspec vents will have FAR more cooling.

The dedicated OC is the way to go overall.

PM me to order and I'll get you fully squared away, properly.
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Old 01-25-2023, 07:29 PM   #5838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
The Ptuning FF kit will fit with the Rotrex reservoir.

You'll need a JR 4 BAR MAP and injectors for E85, along with the FF kit. I recommend ID1050X for their consistency and spray pattern.

Stock coil packs are fine if they're in good shape. Otherwise, I recommend IP Plasma.

You'll also need a clutch if manual transmission.

A catch can will help keep your MAF clean, as well as your charge piping.

Fluidampr is always a great idea.

Trackspec vents will have FAR more cooling.

The dedicated OC is the way to go overall.

PM me to order and I'll get you fully squared away, properly.
I'm not finding any FA parts for plasma from IPs website. I see EJ, s2000, and Evo kits. Are these the same as the quad spark? I'm almost at 80k so replacing coils is coming soon either way.

Would I run into trouble running the ID1050 on an NA motor? I'm chasing some weird LTFT behavior and considering replacing injectors. I feel like if I'm already at -17 bigger injectors will probably make it more rich. I think it could be a janky/burble tune too but I'm not trying to derail into NA troubleshooting.

Speaking of burbles, will a properly tuned JRSC have noticeable pops and burbles? I currently have some and I'm not a fan. I bet my neighbors like it even less.

Clutch may be upgraded already. People who have driven other twins say it does not feel stock at all so we'll see how it holds up.

Thanks for the help!

Last edited by PikachuBRZ; 01-25-2023 at 08:07 PM.
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