New Suspension

[Goingnowherefast]

I would recommend going with a set of used PP (sachs) dampers with some RCE yellows. While not perfect, the PP dampers are quite good and I'd recommend them to anyone in a street centered application.

I'd stay away from cheap two piece coilovers like those. Between cheap material use, little to no corrosion protection, shitty damping, reduced shock travel, and poorly matched spring rates, I think you’d be better off with a good sping + pp damper setup.

[pallen]

Great writeup on coilovers. I've always been a little confused why stock or aftermarket damper/spring combos weren't also "coilovers". Its all in the adjustability....

Slightly off-topic - any estimates on when RCE Yellows will be available again?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by pallen

Great writeup on coilovers. I've always been a little confused why stock or aftermarket damper/spring combos weren't also "coilovers". Its all in the adjustability....

Yeah one of those things that's not technically correct but no one cares and it has it's own meaning now.

Originally Posted by pallen

Slightly off-topic - any estimates on when RCE Yellows will be available again?

EDIT: 2 weeks out.

- Andrew

[Jack Carrigan]

I know several people have said bilstein b6 was the best.
I cant find those at all but I found these.

https://www.lmperformance.com/870169...oaAsOYEALw_wcB

they are pricy but are they going to be the right height and better ride for bumps in the road?

[JonAvalon]

Originally Posted by Jack Carrigan

I know several people have said bilstein b6 was the best.
I cant find those at all but I found these.

https://www.lmperformance.com/870169...oaAsOYEALw_wcB

they are pricy but are they going to be the right height and better ride for bumps in the road?

CounterspaceGarage and Rallysportdirect has the B6 in stock

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/b...mplete-brz-frs


https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...strut-assembly

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...strut-assembly

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...shock-absorber

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by Jack Carrigan

I know several people have said bilstein b6 was the best.
I cant find those at all but I found these.

https://www.lmperformance.com/870169...oaAsOYEALw_wcB

they are pricy but are they going to be the right height and better ride for bumps in the road?

Yes, don't skimp on suspension.

Good dampers will make your car ride better AND handle better AND can handle a moderate drop which makes your car look better.

Cheap suspension will ride rougher, not hold up to the elements, fail earlier, clunk, etc.

Only talking about spending a few hundred more on something that will last you another 5 years at least. That's like $80 a year, worth it unless you really are using your car like a beater. Anything decent wi start at $1000, you could also go with single adjustable kw v1's. If you need under $1000 you could do ok with ST X coils for about $800, basically kw v1s with cheaper bodies. They don't hold up under winter salt and other corrosive stuff.

The good double adjustable street suspensions start somewhere over $2000, true motorsport suspensions closer to 4000 and up.

The Bilstien suspension setup you are looking at is also great for set and forget.

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[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by bfrank1972

If you need under $1000 you could do ok with ST X coils for about $800, basically kw v1s with cheaper bodies. They don't hold up under winter salt and other corrosive stuff.

This is not true. The ST shock bodies are galvanized. They will hold up to corrosion fine. Better than most stainless. It’s not like KW’s bodies are passivated.

Here in Florida on the beach, everything rusts. I have friends with KWs that rust. I have had ST coil overs on 2 cars for years now and they show less corrosion than KWs I’ve seen locally.

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by Yoshoobaroo

This is not true. The ST shock bodies are galvanized. They will hold up to corrosion fine. Better than most stainless. It’s not like KW’s bodies are passivated.

Here in Florida on the beach, everything rusts. I have friends with KWs that rust. I have had ST coil overs on 2 cars for years now and they show less corrosion than KWs I’ve seen locally.

Hmm I imagine in Florida it depends on where you drive (exposure) as they dont actually put the super corrosive stuff on the roads like up here. From the source, inox stainless vs zinc (galvanized)

https://www.kwsuspensions.net/technology/inox_line

Not all galvanized are equal mind you but kw warranties galvanized bodies 5 years, inox stainless lifetime. If your buddies with kws have body corrosion/failure, they probably should give kw a call. I wouldn't trust galvanized damper bodies up north, not sure where op lives.

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[fminicooper]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I would assess what you have first, including the condition of your top mounts and suspension bushings. 115k miles is enough that it's not just your shocks that are tired!

One advantage of a full coilover set up is you'll replace springs, shocks, and sometimes topmounts too in one package. But you can piece that all together with a regular spring + fixed perch style damper + new OEM mounts and it may be better for you than a cheaper coilover.

Coilovers aren't always better, especially if you want stock height. The most important part of the equation is the damper itself. Very cheap coilovers make sacrifices in the quality of the damper to get all the other features at a certain price point.

If I bought a BRZ/FRS/GT86 tomorrow with over 100k miles to build as a strictly street car...I would do the following:

1. inspect every bushing and suspension arm, replace with new OEM or group N rubber if needed. And replace rear toe and rear LCA arms with something adjustable.
2. new shocks, springs, top mounts. A couple different options here. Bilstein B6 is a good choice, and there are new options I haven't had a chance to test. OEM PP springs, RCE Yellows, some of the STI springs, those work well. OR good quality road & track style coilovers if you want something a little more extra.
3. inspect brake pads, rotors, calipers, and replace fluid.

I should make a "just bought an older ft86" package to put on the site.

- Andrew

Hi Andrew,
Are Bilstein B8 a better option than B6 with 1" lower springs?

Context of the question, I am in a tight budget thanks I’d prefer more track time than tuning time (10 track week end average per year). Running E85 NA with headers, 245 tires (200tw) and BBK brakes, OEM suspension with some camber and 1" lower spring. As I improved a lot in my driving and times, I feel that the car is flying, moving too much. So I was thinking to change that OEM rear struts with B8 ($350). If I move to coilover, after alignment, LCA arm etc., etc., is going to be $2000.

I will appreciate if you or anybody let me now what do you think.

Fernando

Fernando

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by fminicooper

Are Bilstein B8 a better option than B6 with 1" lower springs?

I'm on 1.25" lower springs and B8 required some spring compression during install. Since I got them I found another guy who ran B6 on the same springs and they weren't loose. I had spoken to a Bilstein tech who looked at the drawings while on the phone and confirmed that the *only* difference between B6 and B8 is droop travel. IMO unless you're lowered more than ~1.25" you're probably better off on the B6. Unless you want fewer pumps on the jack handle to get the wheels in the air, in which case B8, if you're at least 3/4" lower I'd say...

[fminicooper]

Finally installed B6 on the rear
OEM struts worn out. Track feeling very good, happy with the change. Will do front next year.

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[Racecomp Engineering]

I recommend B6 over B8 even with lowering springs.

We have B6 in stock and you can buy them from us to get even more sweet sweet technical assistance. Just send us a pm and we can help you out.

- Andrew

[ZDan]

I just got back from road trip to Watkins Glen, I'll say that the Bilsteins (B8 in my case, identical to B6 but with reduced droop travel) are LEGIT. I actually prefer them to the Ohlins Road&Track coilovers I had on my FD. Ride quality is much better than stock, and there is a lot more bump travel that will accommodate lowish ride heights even with bump-travel-reducing camber plates like mine. Love the car on the street on street tires, love it at the track on Hoosiers. Low-speed damping is significantly more controlled for stiffer springs than stock PP/Sachs, but also high-speed damping is better (bleeds off sharp impacts much better) for a *better* ride on the street. 5/5 for street/track dampers at this price range