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07-17-2020, 11:48 AM | #15 |
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I would recommend going with a set of used PP (sachs) dampers with some RCE yellows. While not perfect, the PP dampers are quite good and I'd recommend them to anyone in a street centered application.
I'd stay away from cheap two piece coilovers like those. Between cheap material use, little to no corrosion protection, shitty damping, reduced shock travel, and poorly matched spring rates, I think you’d be better off with a good sping + pp damper setup.
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07-17-2020, 03:09 PM | #16 |
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Great writeup on coilovers. I've always been a little confused why stock or aftermarket damper/spring combos weren't also "coilovers". Its all in the adjustability....
Slightly off-topic - any estimates on when RCE Yellows will be available again? |
07-17-2020, 04:10 PM | #17 | ||
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- Andrew |
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07-18-2020, 11:56 AM | #18 |
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I know several people have said bilstein b6 was the best.
I cant find those at all but I found these. https://www.lmperformance.com/870169...oaAsOYEALw_wcB they are pricy but are they going to be the right height and better ride for bumps in the road? |
07-18-2020, 12:53 PM | #19 | |
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Quote:
https://www.counterspacegarage.com/b...mplete-brz-frs https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...strut-assembly https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...strut-assembly https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...shock-absorber
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07-18-2020, 02:06 PM | #20 | |
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Good dampers will make your car ride better AND handle better AND can handle a moderate drop which makes your car look better. Cheap suspension will ride rougher, not hold up to the elements, fail earlier, clunk, etc. Only talking about spending a few hundred more on something that will last you another 5 years at least. That's like $80 a year, worth it unless you really are using your car like a beater. Anything decent wi start at $1000, you could also go with single adjustable kw v1's. If you need under $1000 you could do ok with ST X coils for about $800, basically kw v1s with cheaper bodies. They don't hold up under winter salt and other corrosive stuff. The good double adjustable street suspensions start somewhere over $2000, true motorsport suspensions closer to 4000 and up. The Bilstien suspension setup you are looking at is also great for set and forget. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk |
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The Following User Says Thank You to bfrank1972 For This Useful Post: | ZDan (09-19-2020) |
07-18-2020, 03:09 PM | #21 | |
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New Suspension
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Here in Florida on the beach, everything rusts. I have friends with KWs that rust. I have had ST coil overs on 2 cars for years now and they show less corrosion than KWs I’ve seen locally. |
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07-18-2020, 04:43 PM | #22 | |
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https://www.kwsuspensions.net/technology/inox_line Not all galvanized are equal mind you but kw warranties galvanized bodies 5 years, inox stainless lifetime. If your buddies with kws have body corrosion/failure, they probably should give kw a call. I wouldn't trust galvanized damper bodies up north, not sure where op lives. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk |
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07-24-2020, 05:21 PM | #23 | |
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Are Bilstein B8 a better option than B6 with 1" lower springs? Context of the question, I am in a tight budget thanks I’d prefer more track time than tuning time (10 track week end average per year). Running E85 NA with headers, 245 tires (200tw) and BBK brakes, OEM suspension with some camber and 1" lower spring. As I improved a lot in my driving and times, I feel that the car is flying, moving too much. So I was thinking to change that OEM rear struts with B8 ($350). If I move to coilover, after alignment, LCA arm etc., etc., is going to be $2000. I will appreciate if you or anybody let me now what do you think. Fernando Fernando |
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07-24-2020, 05:57 PM | #24 |
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I'm on 1.25" lower springs and B8 required some spring compression during install. Since I got them I found another guy who ran B6 on the same springs and they weren't loose. I had spoken to a Bilstein tech who looked at the drawings while on the phone and confirmed that the *only* difference between B6 and B8 is droop travel. IMO unless you're lowered more than ~1.25" you're probably better off on the B6. Unless you want fewer pumps on the jack handle to get the wheels in the air, in which case B8, if you're at least 3/4" lower I'd say...
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09-19-2020, 03:33 AM | #25 |
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Finally installed B6 on the rear
OEM struts worn out. Track feeling very good, happy with the change. Will do front next year. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk |
09-19-2020, 08:47 AM | #26 |
I recommend B6 over B8 even with lowering springs.
We have B6 in stock and you can buy them from us to get even more sweet sweet technical assistance. Just send us a pm and we can help you out. - Andrew |
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The Following User Says Thank You to Racecomp Engineering For This Useful Post: | ZDan (09-19-2020) |
09-19-2020, 09:22 AM | #27 |
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I just got back from road trip to Watkins Glen, I'll say that the Bilsteins (B8 in my case, identical to B6 but with reduced droop travel) are LEGIT. I actually prefer them to the Ohlins Road&Track coilovers I had on my FD. Ride quality is much better than stock, and there is a lot more bump travel that will accommodate lowish ride heights even with bump-travel-reducing camber plates like mine. Love the car on the street on street tires, love it at the track on Hoosiers. Low-speed damping is significantly more controlled for stiffer springs than stock PP/Sachs, but also high-speed damping is better (bleeds off sharp impacts much better) for a *better* ride on the street. 5/5 for street/track dampers at this price range
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The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to ZDan For This Useful Post: | BlueWhelan (09-19-2020), Capt Spaulding (09-19-2020), Griever423 (09-20-2020), Racecomp Engineering (09-19-2020) |
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