Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[new2subaru]

I know people really like this creature comfort but perhaps removing the AC would help.

[ML]

My C38 locked up today....going to try to have it repaired by superchargerrebuild.com since mine is under warranty. Anyone here gone done this road?

[mrg666]

I have replaced my 2014 exhaust manifold with a 2017+ header and I am very happy with it. There is a noticeable difference especially at higher rpm. I have been thinking with replacing the intake manifold with red 2017+ version as well. But I am not sure if it will make any difference. And it will not be as simple as replacing the exhaust manifold. Has anybody made this conversion? I would appreciate any feedback before I tried this.

[Jackson Racing]

Originally Posted by peaches

@steved @mistople that is very discouraging, what were your coolant temps? The front of the car is kind of crowded with all those cores, the only thing I can think of is making a shroud with a fan for the oil cooler but I'm pretty sure there's no room.

Best guess is the JR cars that ran with SCCA and won had stock-ish headers\exhaust, that would produce less power and less heat. I don't want to spend another $500 to find out it'll still overheat.

The Track Cooler kit was on our supercharged SCCA STU car, which was ran very hard and won a lot of races. Aftermarket header no cat. Oil temps never exceeded 260F, typically 240-250, and that is driving at the limit for 40min.

As long as you have the factory plastics installed so that the air ducts across the coolers properly and not out the bottom, you can run the Track Cooler kit with SC on 300hp cars no problem. I have personally tracked street and race cars with this setup A LOT.

-Oscar Jr.

[mrhemi]

Due to being locked down at home during this pandemic I find I now have ample time to get projects completed at home and around the shop. Big one that has been hanging out there for some time is getting around to install the Jackson Racing supercharger kit I have had for awhile. 2013 BRZ will be the recipient.

A couple of questions:

1 - Approx. how many hours can I expect for a self install? My shop is well equipped and my experience level fairly high.

2 - Would having the car on a four post lift be a benefit for some of the install steps? Thinking of saving my bad back.

Thanks for any info and/or advice. Everyone stay healthy.

mrhemi

[stacyu18]

I have heard that it could take up to 2 days depending on much you are into it. I just order mine also should be here in a week or so. make sure you get the bumper clips just a heads up lol they almost always break.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by stacyu18

I have heard that it could take up to 2 days depending on much you are into it. I just order mine also should be here in a week or so. make sure you get the bumper clips just a heads up lol they almost always break.

Half a day if you go through the installation manual before starting and/or check the videos on Youtube. If I am doing the second time, it would take only 4-5 hours.

[peaches]

It took me about 5 days of 2 - 3 hour chunks. However, my car was in storage (little room) and I also did the radiator and boost gauge.

[peaches]

Originally Posted by Jackson Racing

The Track Cooler kit was on our supercharged SCCA STU car, which was ran very hard and won a lot of races. Aftermarket header no cat. Oil temps never exceeded 260F, typically 240-250, and that is driving at the limit for 40min.

As long as you have the factory plastics installed so that the air ducts across the coolers properly and not out the bottom, you can run the Track Cooler kit with SC on 300hp cars no problem. I have personally tracked street and race cars with this setup A LOT.

-Oscar Jr.

I'm going to try this as a last step, if this doesn't do it then I'm probably selling the car. All the stock panels are in place per recommendations, this is still a street car so I don't feel like doing extensive custom work to keep the temps down.

I love how the car drives with the kit, but I don't want to worry about temps every time I go on track.

[J1Avs]

Originally Posted by Jackson Racing

The Track Cooler kit was on our supercharged SCCA STU car, which was ran very hard and won a lot of races. Aftermarket header no cat. Oil temps never exceeded 260F, typically 240-250, and that is driving at the limit for 40min.

As long as you have the factory plastics installed so that the air ducts across the coolers properly and not out the bottom, you can run the Track Cooler kit with SC on 300hp cars no problem. I have personally tracked street and race cars with this setup A LOT.

-Oscar Jr.

We re-installed the factory air ducts along the sides of the intercooler (trimming around the IC piping) -- there is nothing else correct?


I'm running the JRSC C30, PTuning Header (no cat), JDL Catted/Resonated Front Pipe, and running on 93, with vents. Regularly see temps on the dash reaching 260+ with the Track Oil Cooler and a Koyo Radiator.


What else could be an issue here?

[peaches]

Originally Posted by J1Avs

We re-installed the factory air ducts along the sides of the intercooler (trimming around the IC piping) -- there is nothing else correct?


I'm running the JRSC C30, PTuning Header (no cat), JDL Catted/Resonated Front Pipe, and running on 93, with vents. Regularly see temps on the dash reaching 260+ with the Track Oil Cooler and a Koyo Radiator.


What else could be an issue here?

It seems insignificant, but I saw a small improvement when I added the stock foam on the radiator (I have the JR DROC). You can buy it new from the dealer or reuse the original one. I'm also planning to add some tape to the ducts so they stay in place, I noticed there are some small gaps since they don't exactly fit flush after trimming for the IC.

Based on what other users have done, I ordered some foam that I can cut to fit to replace those ducts, that might provide a better sealing effect. Replacing the crash bar with a drift bar would increase the area for air to flow, but it implies a lot more work.

The other option is to take it to a race shop and have them fab something up, but I'm not willing to pay for that considering the comments from JR.

[steved]

Originally Posted by peaches

I'm going to try this as a last step, if this doesn't do it then I'm probably selling the car. All the stock panels are in place per recommendations, this is still a street car so I don't feel like doing extensive custom work to keep the temps down.

I love how the car drives with the kit, but I don't want to worry about temps every time I go on track.

@peaches does this mean you're switching from the dual cooler to the track cooler?

I just made this switch but haven't been able to get out to a track day yet with the plastic (trimmed) trim pieces in place to report properly. For a weak point of reference I have a stretch of highway that is rather tight and curvy so lots of redline pulls, and oil temp hit ~243F within ~20min, ambient was close to (slightly above) freezing.

I also have a drift bar coming my way soon.

If you can wait I'll post here with my track results - but with the current lockdown it might be a while..

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by mrhemi

Due to being locked down at home during this pandemic I find I now have ample time to get projects completed at home and around the shop. Big one that has been hanging out there for some time is getting around to install the Jackson Racing supercharger kit I have had for awhile. 2013 BRZ will be the recipient.

A couple of questions:

1 - Approx. how many hours can I expect for a self install? My shop is well equipped and my experience level fairly high.

2 - Would having the car on a four post lift be a benefit for some of the install steps? Thinking of saving my bad back.

Thanks for any info and/or advice. Everyone stay healthy.

mrhemi

1. 8 hours should be plenty if you're well versed mechanically. Make sure to read through the instructions a few times before starting

2. Not really. You can do the install with the car on jackstands in the front only, or even on the floor. Mainly, you just need to be able to reasonably get the bumper off. Once the bumper is off, you can do it with the car on the ground. Height preference will be strictly your preference.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by peaches

It seems insignificant, but I saw a small improvement when I added the stock foam on the radiator (I have the JR DROC). You can buy it new from the dealer or reuse the original one. I'm also planning to add some tape to the ducts so they stay in place, I noticed there are some small gaps since they don't exactly fit flush after trimming for the IC.

Based on what other users have done, I ordered some foam that I can cut to fit to replace those ducts, that might provide a better sealing effect. Replacing the crash bar with a drift bar would increase the area for air to flow, but it implies a lot more work.

The other option is to take it to a race shop and have them fab something up, but I'm not willing to pay for that considering the comments from JR.

100% correct. The small details matter. Because this is an equilibrium equation, generating 0.1% more heat than you can dissipate means you will run hot, and generating 0.1% less heat than you can dissipate means you will run cool. Even the smallest amount can tip the equation.