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Old 07-02-2020, 01:48 PM   #3095
John K
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Originally Posted by xxthrillxx View Post
Okay good if the valve spring service was done, you are good.

However, i would take it back to them to the oil pan and check the oil pick up tube.

It is not uncommon that the dealer uses too much sealant on the timing cover and it drips down to the oil pan causing these codes after thr J02 service.

In a best case scenario, hopefully it really just is a bad OCV.

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I really hope so. After I reset it I’ve been driving around abit to get the codes to pop again to have them see it. However the code isn’t popping up and the car isnt idle hunting anymore. So we’ll see if it was just mad for not being driven for awhile.
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Old 08-12-2020, 01:33 AM   #3096
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This thread makes me very paranoid. My MY2013 has its engine replaced after recall and then cam gear sprocket failure. Should I expect something else To fail next ?

Anyone with 2015+ have this issue?
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Old 09-14-2020, 01:20 PM   #3097
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Originally Posted by ALWYZBZ View Post
This thread makes me very paranoid. My MY2013 has its engine replaced after recall and then cam gear sprocket failure. Should I expect something else To fail next ?

Anyone with 2015+ have this issue?
2016. CEL and SL both popped up just this morning. Idle bounced between 900rpm and 1000rpm for several seconds when I started, eventually settling down after throwing both CEL and SL. Engine has about 6500 miles.

Code is P000A
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Last edited by chipmunk; 09-15-2020 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 09-23-2020, 11:46 AM   #3098
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Originally Posted by ALWYZBZ View Post
This thread makes me very paranoid. My MY2013 has its engine replaced after recall and then cam gear sprocket failure. Should I expect something else To fail next ?

Anyone with 2015+ have this issue?
If your car is a manual, the TOB (throw out bearing) may fail on down the road.
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Old 11-08-2020, 10:28 PM   #3099
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Another one?

2015 BRZ manual, 44500 miles, last six 6070XX, Sacramento CA area.

The low mileage is in part because I bought new old stock in 2016, and part the rona had me commuting less this year (but the open roads were tits, just sayin). I'm not ruling out that maybe she just doesn't like sitting still for a week "in these unpresidented times".

It manifested on the way to work and I didn't have anything with me to read codes, but I got the low stumbling idle (nearly stalled), same lights on the dash (slip was on but I didn't see it flash), and it was clearly in limp mode.

After finding and reading a small portion of this thread; I pulled the negative terminal for about four hours. At first the throttle response was garbage and it was down on power (relearn, I assume). It took a good 5 miles for it to start to run right again, but within 30 miles it felt 90% normal.

Its been about 75 miles since the reset and the rough idle and idiot lights haven't come back yet. The throttle response still isn't what it used to be, the first 5-10% of the pedal is just dead, but I'm guessing I can fix that with a diagnostic tool in the worst case.

I fed it 8 gallons of fresh premium (what passes for it in cali anyhow) and "I'm still gonna send it". We'll see if the pedal unfornicates itself before it needs fuel again. I've only got 2k miles on the motor oil, but I'll probably drain it and send a sample to blackstone next week because I pre-paid for a bunch of analysis when I bought the car and then used one.

If the issue occurs again I'll read codes now that I'm aware of it. I'll update this post when something changes.


*update 30 Nov 2020
A tank of fuel later everything was back to normal and I haven't had an issue since.

I think this was my bad. I swapped the stock battery for a Shorai a while back and had no issues... when the car was being driven more regularly. This year its been sitting more. I plugged in the battery tender a week ago and it was low. Gonna stay on top of that now.

Last edited by MR2Dave; 12-01-2020 at 01:06 AM. Reason: update
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Old 08-15-2022, 02:04 AM   #3100
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Got this at almost 24K miles. Dealership repaired under extended warranty. Problem is resolved for now. Here's what the dealership did:
"Verified customer concern, P0019 stored in ECM. Inspected OSV angles for bank 2 sensor B, camshaft correlation. Cleared ECM for code, performed road test 1, with engine speed between 2500-3000rpm for 40 seconds. Decelerated without shifting after 40mph. Checked for DTC P0019. Inspect OSV angles bank 1 and bank 2 exhaust side slow response. Recommend engine oil flush and replacement of exhaust oil control solenoid valve bank 2 and recheck system. Performed engine oil flush, replaced engine oil and filter. Road tested vehicle, OSV angles out of spec. Replaced oil control solenoid valve on exhaust bank 2. Road tested vehicle, OSV angles within normal specifications. Performed extended road test to set monitors. Repair complete."
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Old 01-29-2023, 07:45 AM   #3101
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I have a 2013 Scion FR-S 6MT. Got P0018 code.
I took it to the dealer for the Valve Spring Recall. They scanned it first and said I needed to get the code fixed too.
They replaced the Cam Gear, (the dog bone in it had come out/broken) did the valve spring recall, put it all back together and it runs fine, but it has the code still.

He said I need a new ECU, Part number SU003-04674, but that it was fine to run with the CEL...

I put in a 2013 MT ECU from a junk year, and CEL stayed on... It was an earlier build ECU. Since then I have spent HOURS reading these posts...

How can I find the RIGHT ECU to put in, and not buy it from a dealer for $500, or is there a different alternative? I also don't want to waste a tuner's time flashing and trying and be several labor hours into something that should be easy....From what I can tell, about May 2013 on the Scions, the MT ECU's were changed, anything from then to late 2014 Could fix my issue, as it seems again in late 2014 there was another significant change. but I cannot find a simple cross reference table of what works with what between various cars.

Help and guidance appreciated.

UPDATE


Ok, An update... and maybe help for someone in the same boat.

2013 Scion FRS April 2013 Build date. Had P0018 Code. Replaced the timing gear. CEL stayed on Was permanent. Dealer said I needed a new ECM and to save a few bucks I could buy one on my own and put it in. They said I needed SCION part number SU003-04674. The original ECM is Subaru HE 22765AC813 112700-1235 12V DENSO. I called SCION parts and asked for the ECM... it was ~$500. I didn't know based on comments here and elsewhere if the ECM would fix it or not, and didn't want to lay out $500. I went to the junk yard and bought an ECM off a 2012 Manual SCION... HD 22765AC803-112400-4846. It started but CEL stayed on... Junk yard got that one back and i got my money back. I called Subaru parts and asked for a replacement for HE 22765AC813 112700-1235. They told me that part had been superseded by CW 22765AG511 112700-6501. I got on ebay, found one, and put it in...it works... Not sure what the difference is between the HE xxx and the CW xxx, but the Toyota / SCION dealer told me they had done upgrades to the ECM. Scion could not give me the upgrade part numbers printed on the ECM, had to go to Subaru for that.

Hopefully it sticks and keeps working/keeps me in business, and hopefully someone else finds this helpful...

Last edited by horsinaround; 02-11-2023 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 02-07-2023, 05:29 PM   #3102
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I'm a little frustrated at this point.

I had the valve spring recall done 4 months ago @45,000 miles. Only driven about 1,800 miles since then and I get the P0018 code. I took it back to the same Toyota dealer in case the recall was related to the P0018 code.

They ran diagnostics and said I needed an ECM/ECU, so I let them replace it and paid $1,400 for parts and labor. The same day I got it back the CEL & traction control light came on again. This time with code P000B.

They called me and said it would be $1,800 to tear into it to figure out the problem since it was a different code. I explained that it wasn't ok and why I didn't agree with their assessment of the situation. Also talked to the service manager about the history of engines breaking after this recall. So he agreed to cover the cost of tearing into it and figuring out what's wrong.

Service manager calls me back today and tells me I have a bad cam gear and that we should replace all 4 while the engine is apart. He said he would apply my $1,400 for the ECU to the cost of replacing all 4 cam gears. Which means I'm on the hook for another $2,800 dollars to this dealer's service department.

Could all this be related to sealant in the oil, from the recall work? I never asked while we were on the phone if they had taken the engine apart or checked for sealant.

A friend says I should contact Toyota North America and get them involved. I feel like I'm being robbed and that the cam gears probably won't solve the problem either if the oil tubes are clogged.
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Old 02-07-2023, 05:33 PM   #3103
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Originally Posted by 86prime View Post
Got this at almost 24K miles. Dealership repaired under extended warranty. Problem is resolved for now. Here's what the dealership did:
"Verified customer concern, P0019 stored in ECM. Inspected OSV angles for bank 2 sensor B, camshaft correlation. Cleared ECM for code, performed road test 1, with engine speed between 2500-3000rpm for 40 seconds. Decelerated without shifting after 40mph. Checked for DTC P0019. Inspect OSV angles bank 1 and bank 2 exhaust side slow response. Recommend engine oil flush and replacement of exhaust oil control solenoid valve bank 2 and recheck system. Performed engine oil flush, replaced engine oil and filter. Road tested vehicle, OSV angles out of spec. Replaced oil control solenoid valve on exhaust bank 2. Road tested vehicle, OSV angles within normal specifications. Performed extended road test to set monitors. Repair complete."

Did this fix your problem? Still fixed?

Thanks
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Old 03-14-2023, 05:17 PM   #3104
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Back to the Dealership

After 1 month since replacing the timing gears the P000B code came back. This time I contacted Toyota North America first and started a case with them. They contacted the dealer and the dealer contacted me.

The dealer have had the car a few days now and let me know they're changing the OCV actuator solenoid. They swapped the solenoids from left side to right side and say the code followed the solenoid. That sounds promising and what I think they should have done first.

They said they were covering the cost of the solenoid. I've already paid them $3600 to replace the ECU and the cam timing gears. I plan to ask for a refund since I think the solenoid is what they should've checked first.

The solenoid is a 1.4 hour repair vs. 4.4 for timing gears.
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Old 05-01-2023, 01:51 PM   #3105
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Did this fix your problem? Still fixed?
Yes, this fixed the problem and so far so good (~26K miles now).
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