HKS SC V3 kit arrived, what else?

[jeepmor]

All,

Waited 4 months for my HKS V3 supercharger to arrive, and it's finally here. I bought the kit that comes with the HKS flash tablet tuner. Seemed like a good plan at the time. I'll likely switch to Ecutek tuning once it's up and running to maximize potential. I chose this route for a speedy return to service.

Reading through some threads and some of the HKS literature. I see I need a Map sensor so I ordered one. I also read here on the forums that I will need to change out my PCV valve to the WRX STI model as the stock NA version is not worthy.

I have a Mishimoto oil cooler as well, and a catch can. Do I have my bases covered or am still missing some components to get this done?

I'll be going to a local shop for installation, but I'm providing all the bits. I don't want to cause any delays to installation as this is my commuter. I don't want to have to rent a car again like I did recently when my TOB died and I had to wait on orders to arrive to the tune of two weeks gathering the clutch parts. I had a SouthBend 350 torque clutch put in, it should be plenty up to snuff for the SC upgrade. And to be clear, lots of other new bits went in with the clutch assembly.

[DarkPira7e]

What are your goals? What fuel will you run?

[Kiske]

You'll want some ring clamps for the hoses on the bottom of the intake manifold (to keep them from popping off in boost.)

You may want to consider some kind of gauge for boost, afr and oil. These will let you know the status of your car and spot potential problems before you have a bad day. If your looking for a low-profile all-in-one option P3 makes a nice multi gauge that goes into the AC-vents for this car.

[jeepmor]

Thanks for the inputs.

Kit comes with hose clamps for under the manifold, I do recall reading about that issue on this forum. As for the P3 gauge, how does it read boost? Do I have a port for that or does it read from the MAP sensor or something? Never done a supercharger before. Gave the P3 unit a good look and have a better understanding.

Goals are as follows.

1. Get it done quickly, so I'm using a local shop.
2. Add the Mishimoto oil cooler.
2. Keep it reliable, it's my commuter.
3. Keep it safe, thanks for gauge tips here.
4. Squeeze what I can out of what I have before adding any fuel system upgrades.
5. It's not a racecar, just my sports car.


Eventually, this will be Ecutek kit is my current line of thinking. May have missed the mark a bit here on this particular kit purchase for flexibility, but it is plug and play. I got a good shop referral from a friend with a CTS-V Cadillac when my TOB blew out last month, so I gave them a try. Now I'm going to have them do this I'm so happy with their work and, in particular, their speed of getting it done.

I read of someone on here or FB getting 300whp from this kit on a 93 tune IIRC. They claimed no fuel system upgrades, just a 93 tune on this same HKS SC system. No way to confirm it as HKS tune or otherwise, but his exhaust was all done as well. That would be great, but I expect to land south of that with the stock header and exhaust and only a CSG catback on it. I've read the base tunes that come with kits are made more for reliability than all out power, and that's what I want. My reading, mostly from this forum, has been failures come when someone pushes the tune too far, and it's mostly the turbos and rod failures in my reading. I haven't read of any failures on base tunes provided by manufacturers like HKS or others where applicable. Albeit, I found one thread where some HKS customers had serious issues and burned through two SC units, but that seemed mechanical, not tune related.

I'm reading that I have the engine's oil viscosity much be higher than 40. What, is that correct? Does Japan do different oil ratings, that one has me confused for a 0-20W engine, and it's right on the front page of the manual too. I'd share an image, but haven't been success on other attempts on this site for some reason. It's the last line in the Remarks section.

[Brz-123]

On power I will say with stock header and midpipe (aka both cats intact) , you will get 250 -270 hp on 93 Octane. So 300 is not going to happen unfortunately.

Coworth had done some solid testing when they did their kit and determined 280 HP is the safe limit for stock rods. Anything above is a lottery.

Oil ratings are universal. Most people chase power for track and hence go to a thicker grade oil. If you are using it on the public roads and are using the manufacturers tested tune (HKS) , then follow their instructions for 0W-20 or what ever rating they say. They have done their R&D. Change the oil more frequently and you will be fine. All the best.



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[DarkPira7e]

I have to say it.
There is no "safe limit". Failure has less to do with power than it does the delivery. Low end torque, bad tune, bad fuel, bad oil maintenance, critically low oil pressure, poor engine assembly, all are far more likely to cause failure than 281whp. Not trying to be an ass, I just don't want this guy thinking that "if I keep the power at 280, my car will be completely safe!"

If you're keeping stock fueling components and running 93, I wouldn't even bother with an oil cooler for a daily driver. Get the data to support that it's needed first, an oil cooler seems nice until you have a leak and it goes unnoticed.

If you want it reliable, change as few things as possible and have a nice tune. It'll be great

[jeepmor]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

I have to say it.
There is no "safe limit". Failure has less to do with power than it does the delivery. Low end torque, bad tune, bad fuel, bad oil maintenance, critically low oil pressure, poor engine assembly, all are far more likely to cause failure than 281whp. Not trying to be an ass, I just don't want this guy thinking that "if I keep the power at 280, my car will be completely safe!"

If you're keeping stock fueling components and running 93, I wouldn't even bother with an oil cooler for a daily driver. Get the data to support that it's needed first, an oil cooler seems nice until you have a leak and it goes unnoticed.

If you want it reliable, change as few things as possible and have a nice tune. It'll be great

I have the oil cooler already, so it's going in. More oil capacity and cooling is not a bad thing when I plan to add about 75-100hp to the car. It's more of an insurance policy for the engine and something easy to do while the SC goes in being the front clip will be off. I read lots of threads regarding the heat boosting adds, so I thought it prudent.

I'm also pursuing the gauges mentioned for that same insurance policy mindset, if a problem starts and I can monitor it happening, like oil temps spiking, I can mitigate before it craters something. Not sure if I'll install that immediately or after the SC and oil cooler are in.

It looks like I'm on the right track for my reliability goals. I have read several threads or inputs of people with these units having no issues, I expect the same. And I'm also having it professionally installed for extra insurance as the shop will back up their work and they do it all the time. I'm plenty capable and have the tools, but I know it'd take me too long. These guys do this all day every day, I was amazed at how fast they got my clutch done.

Looks like some of the hp numbers are inflated as presented by others. Figured that would come about. Not surprised. TBH, I've always been expecting about 225-250hp as above 275 does sound like you're into fuel mods to support properly. Also, considering a quick look at 93 octane availability in my area is about 40 miles away, I don't think I'll be in a 93 octane tune that often.

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by jeepmor

I have the oil cooler already, so it's going in. More oil capacity and cooling is not a bad thing when I plan to add about 75-100hp to the car. It's more of an insurance policy for the engine and something easy to do while the SC goes in being the front clip will be off. I read lots of threads regarding the heat boosting adds, so I thought it prudent.

I'm also pursuing the gauges mentioned for that same insurance policy mindset, if a problem starts and I can monitor it happening, like oil temps spiking, I can mitigate before it craters something. Not sure if I'll install that immediately or after the SC and oil cooler are in.

It looks like I'm on the right track for my reliability goals. I have read several threads or inputs of people with these units having no issues, I expect the same. And I'm also having it professionally installed for extra insurance as the shop will back up their work and they do it all the time. I'm plenty capable and have the tools, but I know it'd take me too long. These guys do this all day every day, I was amazed at how fast they got my clutch done.

Looks like some of the hp numbers are inflated as presented by others. Figured that would come about. Not surprised. TBH, I've always been expecting about 225-250hp as above 275 does sound like you're into fuel mods to support properly. Also, considering a quick look at 93 octane availability in my area is about 40 miles away, I don't think I'll be in a 93 octane tune that often.

I get it Nothing wrong with it, just that complexity adds failure points.
If not running 93, will you be on 91? I only ask because if E85 is ever part of the plan, you need supporting modifications across the board.

Seems like your mind is made up, glad you found comfort with what you need! Now it's time to make it happen

[Brz-123]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

I have to say it.
There is no "safe limit". Failure has less to do with power than it does the delivery. Low end torque, bad tune, bad fuel, bad oil maintenance, critically low oil pressure, poor engine assembly, all are far more likely to cause failure than 281whp. Not trying to be an ass, I just don't want this guy thinking that "if I keep the power at 280, my car will be completely safe!"

If you're keeping stock fueling components and running 93, I wouldn't even bother with an oil cooler for a daily driver. Get the data to support that it's needed first, an oil cooler seems nice until you have a leak and it goes unnoticed.

If you want it reliable, change as few things as possible and have a nice tune. It'll be great

I was trying to simplify it for the OP. With an F1 engine builder testing it and simplifying it to a BHP number is to reduce the variables for the regular Joe who does not want to think of 10 variables. Since HKS is a Centrifugal kit not PD , so low end torque is a moot point. Regarding the other variables you mention , frequent oil change is something I mention. He is using stock HKs tune , so while it may not be perfectly mated to his car , will be a good enough neutral tune for their set up. So net net, its all okay for OP.

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[Boccaccio]

FYI

HKS recommends a 40 weight engine oil:

https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produ...arger/db/20246 (under installation notice)

Here, in Europe, specifically in Germany, most HKS GT SC users use 5W_40 or 5W_50 from Motul or Ravenol (excellent engine oil, group IV/V + Tungsten/Molybdenum additive, also used by Gazoo racing).

I use 5W_40 (Ravenol RCS) with my HKS GT2 SC (including HKS oil cooler) / built engine combo.

Cheers

[Brz-123]

Originally Posted by jeepmor

I have the oil cooler already, so it's going in. More oil capacity and cooling is not a bad thing when I plan to add about 75-100hp to the car. It's more of an insurance policy for the engine and something easy to do while the SC goes in being the front clip will be off. I read lots of threads regarding the heat boosting adds, so I thought it prudent.

I'm also pursuing the gauges mentioned for that same insurance policy mindset, if a problem starts and I can monitor it happening, like oil temps spiking, I can mitigate before it craters something. Not sure if I'll install that immediately or after the SC and oil cooler are in.

It looks like I'm on the right track for my reliability goals. I have read several threads or inputs of people with these units having no issues, I expect the same. And I'm also having it professionally installed for extra insurance as the shop will back up their work and they do it all the time. I'm plenty capable and have the tools, but I know it'd take me too long. These guys do this all day every day, I was amazed at how fast they got my clutch done.

Looks like some of the hp numbers are inflated as presented by others. Figured that would come about. Not surprised. TBH, I've always been expecting about 225-250hp as above 275 does sound like you're into fuel mods to support properly. Also, considering a quick look at 93 octane availability in my area is about 40 miles away, I don't think I'll be in a 93 octane tune that often.

Other than boost , which you need to tap into, for the other parameters, there is a really cheap plug and play solution. Buy a Carista or a torque Pro OBD2 bluetooth dongle and buy the torque Pro app for your phone for a few Problem solved.

Does the HKS tune allow variations like ECUTEK where you can have 4 tunes, one for each fuel or some racerom features etc. or will you have to reflash when you fill in with 93? Using a regular gas and its appropriate tune will not hurt reliability, just lower the a bit.

Enjoy the upgrade. It will make a good difference and keep it reliable, till you don't go down the slippery slope of smaller pulley, 3 inch exhaust system, decat manifold and retune etc etc.


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[tomm.brz]

hks tunes are not editable and they are very rich and relaxed timings... lots and lots of unnecessary counterproductive overlap anyway they work... but you will smell like unburnt fuel all day lol


I'm using 5w40 oil , i wouldn't go lower than 0w30 and not if you re hard tracking it (aka stay away from high temperatures to avoid low pressure)
If you find your oil never going over 105-110 Celsius because you have an oil cooler for example and never beat your car for long , there is no real reason to go thicker

[jeepmor]

Originally Posted by Boccaccio

FYI

HKS recommends a 40 weight engine oil:

https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produ...arger/db/20246 (under installation notice)

Here, in Europe, specifically in Germany, most HKS GT SC users use 5W_40 or 5W_50 from Motul or Ravenol (excellent engine oil, group IV/V + Tungsten/Molybdenum additive, also used by Gazoo racing).

I use 5W_40 (Ravenol RCS) with my HKS GT2 SC (including HKS oil cooler) / built engine combo.

Cheers

Seems odd to put diesel viscosity oil in this small engine, but here we go.

[jeepmor]

Originally Posted by tomm.brz

hks tunes are not editable and they are very rich and relaxed timings... lots and lots of unnecessary counterproductive overlap anyway they work... but you will smell like unburnt fuel all day lol


I'm using 5w40 oil ,i wouldn't go lower than 0w30 and not if you re hard tracking it (aka stay away from high temperatures to avoid low pressure)
If you find your oil never going over 105-110 Celsius because you have an oil cooler for example and never beat your car for long , there is no real reason to go thicker

It does look like the plan to go to Ecutek to refine the tune eventually. I need to get it on the road first, then have those discussions. I've already started the conversation with Bob Watanabe of Drift Office, but he's busy and I'm not ready for the wallet out talks at this time.

As for oil, thanks for the feedback. I'll start with a 5w40 and go from there. Keeps it in spec per their requirements, and gives me time to figure things out. Smelling fuel all day doesn't sound fun, that'll motivate me to move to an Ecutek arrangement sooner than later. As stated, I wanted a plug and play option and this was a good one, and I knew the tune would have to be optimized in more from all the forum threads I read.