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Old 04-21-2021, 03:19 PM   #1
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Question Fried ECU...

So I've been having problems with my FI for a while, I did a lot of self testing to see why it wouldn't crank... Starter is good, new battery, clutch sensor gave me current signatures (good), all relais and all fuses are good... So I took it to a mechanic who told me the key wasn't paired to the car... So I took it to the dealership and got yelled at for dropping the turbo in and tuning it... They from the start already said the tune (from csg, Zach Tucker great guy) was bad and fucked my ecu up... Today after a week they called saying I need a new ecu cause my tune created a short and burned it up.. I just wanted to see what did you guys think? Should I pay 1500 for it and risk that not being the problem?
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Old 04-21-2021, 04:28 PM   #2
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I think they are full of shit, you may have an ECU issue but likely not caused by the tune. Have you tried contacting CSG?

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Old 04-21-2021, 04:31 PM   #3
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So they are saying that the software caused the hardware to short? lol BS.

Start with CSG. They are always pretty helpful.
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Old 04-22-2021, 07:01 AM   #4
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Tune wont cause short or fry ecu


if you can talk to ecu with ecutek cable then ecu is functioning.


If for example to flash an incorrect ecu calibration to the ecu it can cause car not to start . for exanple if you flash an auto transmission calibration to a manual car it wont start. But all you need to do is flash correct ecu calibration to car and your good.


If however if you flash a pre faclift calibration to a post facelift car or the other way round it does cause an ecu \imobilisier lockout ( i know cause ive done it ) to get out of that one you need to flash in the correct ecu calibration and then loop pins 4 to 13 on the obd port for over 30 minutes with ignition on.


see my post on swapping ECU


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810




Tell me the year and if car is auto or manual and also what ecu calibration id is currently in car like ZA1JB01C ?


Also if you ever flashed a different ecu calid to car ? than what it was stock, i know tune is different but was ecu calid changed ?
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Old 04-22-2021, 11:39 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by RG4L View Post
So I've been having problems with my FI for a while, I did a lot of self testing to see why it wouldn't crank... Starter is good, new battery, clutch sensor gave me current signatures (good), all relais and all fuses are good... So I took it to a mechanic who told me the key wasn't paired to the car... So I took it to the dealership and got yelled at for dropping the turbo in and tuning it... They from the start already said the tune (from csg, Zach Tucker great guy) was bad and fucked my ecu up... Today after a week they called saying I need a new ecu cause my tune created a short and burned it up.. I just wanted to see what did you guys think? Should I pay 1500 for it and risk that not being the problem?

Find an independent mechanic who specializes in these cars and has experience tuning them. Once you've made major modifications to your car, dealers tend to not want to work on them.
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Old 04-23-2021, 12:12 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by steve99 View Post
Tune wont cause short or fry ecu


if you can talk to ecu with ecutek cable then ecu is functioning.


If for example to flash an incorrect ecu calibration to the ecu it can cause car not to start . for exanple if you flash an auto transmission calibration to a manual car it wont start. But all you need to do is flash correct ecu calibration to car and your good.


If however if you flash a pre faclift calibration to a post facelift car or the other way round it does cause an ecu \imobilisier lockout ( i know cause ive done it ) to get out of that one you need to flash in the correct ecu calibration and then loop pins 4 to 13 on the obd port for over 30 minutes with ignition on.


see my post on swapping ECU


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810




Tell me the year and if car is auto or manual and also what ecu calibration id is currently in car like ZA1JB01C ?


Also if you ever flashed a different ecu calid to car ? than what it was stock, i know tune is different but was ecu calid changed ?
I did flash it before ecutek, using the oft from 86speed but I unmarried it before using ecutek... The calibration is ZA1JB01C.

I will go to the dealership today and try and check my ecu with my ecutek.. maybe its actually dead but not hy the tune thats just dumb
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Old 04-23-2021, 01:09 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by RG4L View Post
I did flash it before ecutek, using the oft from 86speed but I unmarried it before using ecutek... The calibration is ZA1JB01C.

I will go to the dealership today and try and check my ecu with my ecutek.. maybe its actually dead but not hy the tune thats just dumb

The (vehicle?) dealer is not going to be able to (or even feel obligated to) help you when you have made the modifications to your car that you have.

Let’s say your ECU does need to be replaced, they will sell you one and even program it with the proper updated calibration ID as should be on a STOCK car according to your VIN. Where does that leave you? With a car that will not run due to the current modifications. Now you’re back to square one with a need for more troubleshooting because the stock ECU programming won’t work with your turbo setup.

Do yourself a favor and forget the dealer. If you suspect a burnt out ECU, purchase a used ECU off of ebay for about $100 and take it with you when you find a tuner in your area that specializes in modified twins. There are at least six EcuTek dealers in North Carolina that should be able to help you out. They can even help to diagnose your main issue BEFORE ruling that your ECU is bad, but if it is bad, you’ll have a spare to substitute, but they will want to fix the cause for the failure of the first one before going any further.
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Old 04-23-2021, 06:33 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86 View Post
The (vehicle?) dealer is not going to be able to (or even feel obligated to) help you when you have made the modifications to your car that you have.

Let’s say your ECU does need to be replaced, they will sell you one and even program it with the proper updated calibration ID as should be on a STOCK car according to your VIN. Where does that leave you? With a car that will not run due to the current modifications. Now you’re back to square one with a need for more troubleshooting because the stock ECU programming won’t work with your turbo setup.

Do yourself a favor and forget the dealer. If you suspect a burnt out ECU, purchase a used ECU off of ebay for about $100 and take it with you when you find a tuner in your area that specializes in modified twins. There are at least six EcuTek dealers in North Carolina that should be able to help you out. They can even help to diagnose your main issue BEFORE ruling that your ECU is bad, but if it is bad, you’ll have a spare to substitute, but they will want to fix the cause for the failure of the first one before going any further.
Yea you right, I'll just buy another one by myself. I have ecutek and the tune files so that isn't an issue. As soon as I get the ECU programmed to my car I'll reflash it again
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Old 04-23-2021, 06:59 PM   #9
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Yea you right, I'll just buy another one by myself. I have ecutek and the tune files so that isn't an issue. As soon as I get the ECU programmed to my car I'll reflash it again

Okay, now we’re getting some more information out of you.

You already have the EcuTek hardware and software, and Zach’s latest calibration for your setup. You should be able to connect your laptop to your OBD port to do some troubleshooting. Follow EcuTek’s instructions for connecting to your car and check for DTC’s and try to query your ECU. If you can pull codes or get the information to display, there’s probably nothing wrong with your ECU. It’s just that the dealer for some reason couldn’t and probably was just guessing at what was wrong.

However, if you’re having trouble with trying to connect using your hardware, be aware that our cars have issues with the diagnostic ports. The female pins inside the connector are notorious for bending and not making contact with the male pins of a diagnostic tool plug. When this happened to me (when trying to data log after Zach sent me my first tune file) I ended up having to push a couple of the female pins inside my diagnostic port back into place using a pick tool in order for them to make contact. That did the trick and I was able to data log properly afterwards.
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Count to muffens and call again.
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Old 04-23-2021, 07:19 PM   #10
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I did flash it before ecutek, using the oft from 86speed but I unmarried it before using ecutek... The calibration is ZA1JB01C.

I will go to the dealership today and try and check my ecu with my ecutek.. maybe its actually dead but not hy the tune thats just dumb

these ecu seem to be very reliable harware wise you need to do somthing pretty horrible to them to destroy them ie major short or something.


if the ecu responds to ecutek query ecu or logging data then the ecu is powered and functions


its possible a single input like clutch saftey switch is dead or wiring to that input needed to start is bad.


check the lock symbol goes away and key color symbol goes green if its keyless that means its getting signal from key fob


read any error codes if its got any imobilisier codes try that ecu resync security proceedure it might clear it ie loop pins 4_13 on obd for over 30 minutes with ignition on, cel light should flash entire 30 minutes
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