Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

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Shiv Procede Thread https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...hlight=procede

[BlOody_BoOger]

Sorry for all the confusion im only asking cuz I'm planning on running the esc along with the procede and shivs flex fuel kit. But the last time i tried to get an e tune from open flash, I went through like 5 revisions and on the last one i was doing data log pulls and the car just shut off i gave me some weird electronic codes and wouldn't accelerate past 3500 rpm....i drove like a grandma the whole way home. Now im back on the original phantom tune. I feel shiv has gotten so busy now. That he no longer works on the tunes himself and has his employees doing it and i kinda don't trust them since then.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

[Shinobu's Smile]

So I'm having an issue with my Phantom system. Ive owned it for maybe 2 years along side the procede controller and it has been operating flawlessly since.

With the procede controller, I recently noticed that the supercharger is kicking in at a low throttle percent (10-15%?) but then as I give it more throttle the supercharger stops and recharges as if I released the throttle but didnt (the voltage pops up from a partial draw at 26v back up to 28.4v). There are no errors on the screen at all or any flashing digits.

With the engine off but electrical system set to "on", when I press the accelerator to 10-15%, the supercharger runs for as long as I maintain that position, but then as I increase the throttle, the supercharger stops entirely.

I connected the Procede controller to my computer and loaded the throttle maps and it's as it should be. When I rev the engine, the corresponding box at the appropriate engine RPM and Throttle position are highlighted so I doubt this is the issue.

I reconnected the 2-stage pedal switch, went for a drive and when I hit the partial position, it kicks in, then as I hit the full throttle portion of the switch, the supercharger stops and the voltage swings back up to 28v.

Other Observations:
I tested the dump batteries (in series) while the engine and everything was off and they read a solid 26 volts, so I doubt that's the issue.
I noticed some green corrosion on the center pin of the connector that goes from the procede controller to the phantom controller. I also noticed some minor green corrosion on the connector that goes from the display/on/off switch to the phantom controller. I tried to scrape off as much as I could with a pin and reconnect but symptoms persist. The connection from the controller to the motor itself is perfect. Shiny and tight with no corrosion. I opened up the controller box and I didnt notice any burnt, char, or smoke marks. All the capacitors look fine and the fuse inside appears good.

I have pictures linked below if they are of any help. Does anyone have any idea of what I should check?
https://imgur.com/a/rg3YqHt


Update 1:
Normally the system would sit at 28.4V when idling or cruising. Now I noticed that it sits at 28.8v and when it does a partial draw, it will shoot up to 30v briefly. It never used to do this before. Is this a sign of dying dump batteries or a faulty controller?

Update 2:
Under the direction of @j_Zer0 , I replaced the dump batteries and now it is back to working as it did since day 1. It still puts a smile on my face ever time it kicks in. I really dont know how those "normies" drive this car without anything.


Thanks @j_Zer0

[BlOody_BoOger]

Anybody here have the newer throttle switch for sale the one that came with the audio plug, I have the procede but I have the old throttle switch so i can't really install the procede. Also if anybody has the auxillary charger for sale aswell let me know thanks!

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

[vfrqqq]

I'll take some pics and post them soon for anyone who is interested.

Originally Posted by Target70

It's too bad we don't have a schematic or parts list. Most likely a DIP chip or two got fried.

Googling a generic ESC controller schematic, they don't look too complicated, but our box should also have the battery charger circuitry inside. If you open the case and take pictures we would learn a little more.

I would guess it is a single layer circuit board, and I doubt any traces would have been the week link, so the cca is probably fine. It likely has off the shelf components, so you should be able to get replacement chips for just a few bucks. The only problem could come from any custom programmed chips.

[Target70]

Originally Posted by vfrqqq

I'll take some pics and post them soon for anyone who is interested.

I just looked at Shinobu's Smile's pics. Man it's really crammed in there. I see some surface mount stuff, and what looks like a 555 timer chip. If it smoked enough you should see black char residue around your bad component.

Hopefully it's that larger chip, those tiny surface mount chips are a pain to identify most of the time, and that's when they are in good condition. If it's an off the shelf cca and if it we can identify it, we might be able to find the schematic and parts list if we can't identify it some other way.

[vfrqqq]

Below are some high resolution pictures of the inside of my ESC controller box. On closer inspection, I was not able to see any noticeable charring or burned components so that doesn't seem great. It does appear that there are multiple circuit boards on top of one another, but it's not clear to me how one would disassemble them without having to desolder a bunch of components. I can always try to take more pictures at a shallower angle if these don't show enough.

https://imgur.com/cwNaQal
https://imgur.com/7Wdku57

[XCLR8]

Wait I thought the procede bypasses the throttle switch?
As a side note does anyone have the proceed USB driver/programming software they can share via PM. I cannot find it anywhere anymore, not even the Procede supplier.

Also vfrqqq we will definitely need more detailed pics at different angles. But upon inspection it seems ok. However if one of those smaller chips is toast that could be causing trouble as well. If you have already ruled out fuses and other connections.

[vfrqqq]

I'll bust out the real camera to get different angles and a better depth of focus.

[Target70]

Originally Posted by vfrqqq

I'll bust out the real camera to get different angles and a better depth of focus.

It's a little dark to tell, but is that small black wire that is exiting the box over the top right screw hole for the cover attached to anything?

If it isn't that loose wire, and is a burnt component, most likely to fix it will require you to to remove the cca's from the box. again can't tell from the pic, but all I can see is that one screw holding the voltage regulators against the heat sink on the right (with all the white thermal paste). If nothing else, it looks like those two large black wires on the left side are blade terminals that you might be able to disconnect to get a better view.

Hopefully If you can free the cca's from the box, you should be able to just slide the wiring harness back through the grommet to let the cards come out of the box without desoldering anything.

[XCLR8]

Good call target that wire appears to move between shots too.

[Target70]

Originally Posted by XCLR8

Good call target that wire appears to move between shots too.

It's too bad Shinobu's Smile took down his pics or we could compare and see where that wire goes.

[vfrqqq]

That little black wire is just for the cooling fan on the exterior of the controller box. It came off the first time I opened the box so I know I already need to reconnect it.

I will see if I can remove the blade connectors to get a little better visibility.

Originally Posted by Target70

It's too bad Shinobu's Smile took down his pics or we could compare and see where that wire goes.

[XCLR8]

That makes sense.

Lets keep digging then.