Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

I wouldn't use it without my map or kools map.


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Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I'm pretty sure we have an RS32 to USB cable lying around in the office, but I was banking on getting this up and running tonight

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by LucidMomentum

Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I'm pretty sure we have an RS32 to USB cable lying around in the office, but I was banking on getting this up and running tonight

Head out to RadioShack or best buy and snag one.


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[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Head out to RadioShack or best buy and snag one.


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Yeah they're like a half hour away. In the meantime, anything I need to worry about if I'm using this procede and don't have the audio jack on my display? I don't want to brick a 500$ controller by being an idiot :p


*EDIT* Okay, so here's the verdict.


For some reason, on my 15 A/T there's extra crap in the glove compartment bay and I only have one bolt, not two. The ECU / EMC box does not come out fully, and the wires were really tough to get to.


I tried using the taps but like I said I couldn't get a crimper down there so I had to solder them. Not sure if I did it very well, as I could barely see what I was doing.


So, I go to wire up the power to the fuse and like others have said the wire on this procede was too short. So I soldered some more wire onto it and tapped it to the fuse.


Then came the fun part - the AUX connection. I'm not sure what version of the throttle switch / indicator I have at this point, because it's got a red LED display, an I/O rocker switch, and two sets of wires - one from the display, one from the foot switch.


The foot switch doesn't have any kind of JST harness, and I didn't want to risk breaking my only switch because I wanted something for my weekend drive if the procede didn't work. So I check the engine bay and I see 5 wires, so I was a bit apprehensive to tap into anything. The foot switch was insulated to, so I didn't mess with that.


I soldered the black wire from the AUX jack to the red wire from the foot pedal switch, or what little part of it was exposed after the insulation. It was late enough at this point that I was willing to take a guess.


Afterwards, I get a laptop and load up the controller. I turn the key to on and plug it in. Reading map, it says. Cool! Progress. I see the sport map and then go and load KoolBRZ's cool map instead. I see it load onto the procede, and assume that once it hits 100% it's now on the controller. I then see a little blue highlight on one of the squares - I'm assuming that means it's reading something from the ECU?


At that point I was told by the car that I had been dumb enough to leave the battery on too long, as it wouldn't turn over. So, I unplug the laptop from the procede, get my battery charger out, and wait a bit until I can get it to turn over.


I hear the ESC start up, then the series of beeps. Sweet! Then I wait for the engine to settle, and take it out for a drive.


The procede never kicked in. I didn't see the voltage meter change unless I used the foot switch with my hand.


So I go home, and it's basically midnight at that point and I have to prepare for my Pismo drive and Cars and Coffee on Saturday, so I call it quits for now, re mount the foot switch, and tuck all the procede wiring away until I feel patient enough to take another look at it.


I'm wondering, is it possible and how much does it cost to get a V2 controller + Foot switch harness? Maybe that will work better with the procede. Or is that not possible if I have the V1? How can I tell the difference?

@Robftss, @fenton, @Shiv@Openflash, @Sojhinn, any feedback / places to start looking into troubleshooting? It's been a long night and my original post was much less rational so I came back and edited it this morning.


If I can't get a new throttle switch to tap into, I may just consider removing the taps and solder and returning the procede. I may return it anyways, if Shiv's okay with me doing so after removing the aux jack. I don't really feel comfortable playing around anymore with the ECU wires being that tight.

[TM]

Originally Posted by DAEMANO

During the exhaust upgrade I did have one issue with a cross threaded downstream O2 sensor on the stock header. The mechanic couldn't get it out without damaging things, so I ordered a new sensor (btw NGK+Amazon FTW (hopefully)) which will be delivered today. I will install this Saturday and pray for no issues. I was hoping to get e-tuned by @Shiv@Openflash beforehand, but I don't see that happening in time with the week I lost on the O2 sensor so I'll be using the OpenFlash OTS ESC tune.

When all is said and done the setup will be pretty solid:

Phantom ESC 24V 2.0
2x EXT16 "Big Crank" batteries + Odyssey compact starter
Proceed Controller w/ @Sojhinn's v2.0 map
E85 - OpenFlashTablet ESC tune
CNT UEL Header (closest thing I could get to an OFH in a short amount of time - Catless, cheap =) )
2.75" Overpipe (Ultimate Racing)
2.75" Frontpipe (Ultimate Racing - Resonated - Catless)
TRD USA Catback

I also have all of the bolt-on mods and I was actually going to bring it into Shiv's shop for dyno tuning. I wanted to get my car custom tuned for 91, 93 and e85, but Shiv told me that the gains would be insignificant, so I decided to hold off.

My mods are:

• ESC 1.0 with 1.5 dump pack
• Procede controller
• aFe dry air filter
• Borla UEL headers
• Nameless OP/FP combo, catted and resonated
• TRD catback

Shiv's response was: With the ESC, I have not found much gains to be had through custom tuning. The airflow rates aren’t really high enough to be able to play with mapping as one would do on the dyno. I’m sure we can get some improvement but I’d be lying to you if I thought the gains would be significant!

Originally Posted by LucidMomentum

Then came the fun part - the AUX connection. I'm not sure what version of the throttle switch / indicator I have at this point, because it's got a red LED display, an I/O rocker switch, and two sets of wires - one from the display, one from the foot switch.


The foot switch doesn't have any kind of JST harness, and I didn't want to risk breaking my only switch because I wanted something for my weekend drive if the procede didn't work. So I check the engine bay and I see 5 wires, so I was a bit apprehensive to tap into anything. The foot switch was insulated to, so I didn't mess with that.

Do you have the old v1 kit or the new v2 kit? I have a v1 kit and I was able to get it wired to the procode after cutting off the foot switch. You shouldn't have a problem connecting either kits to the procede, though.

Sounds to me that you got the power and ground hooked up to the procede, since you were able to load up a map to it. With your laptop plugged into the procede and the software open, when you rev through the RPMs, does the "active" cell move up and down through the range? Is so, then you have the RPM signal tapped and working. When you step on the throttle, does the cell move left and right horizontally? If so, then you have the throttle signal hooked up correctly.

What sounds to me, though, is that you didn't tap into the right ESC wire. I was also going to tap it into the wires coming right from the ESC controller, but the one that goes to the foot switch actually have two wires inside, so you're going to need to cut it, even if it's insulated. One of the two in there will be the right one. I would cut it near the foot switch, where you can actually see the two wires coming out of the one insulated wire (or unsolder it off the foot switch if you can see the soldered contacts).

Edit: I misread some parts of your post when I was typing this up on my phone. From your older posts, it seems like you have the v1 kit. So there should be an insulated wire that goes to your foot switch. Inside that insulation is a wire surrounded by copper. The wire should be soldered to one end of the foot switch and the cooper to the other end. The wire and the cooper surrounding. One of them is the right one to tap into. There's no standard to which one because the kit was built before the procede, so wire designations were not used. You can either test it with a voltmeter or try both of them with the procede, one at a time. For me, I needed to tap into the copper (and my wire was white). For someone else with the v1 kit, they tapped into the wire itself, which happens to be red.

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by TM

I also have all of the bolt-on mods and I was actually going to bring it into Shiv's shop for dyno tuning. I wanted to get my car custom tuned for 91, 93 and e85, but Shiv told me that the gains would be insignificant, so I decided to hold off.

My mods are:

• ESC 1.0 with 1.5 dump pack
• Procede controller
• aFe dry air filter
• Borla UEL headers
• Nameless OP/FP combo, catted and resonated
• TRD catback

Shiv's response was: With the ESC, I have not found much gains to be had through custom tuning. The airflow rates aren’t really high enough to be able to play with mapping as one would do on the dyno. I’m sure we can get some improvement but I’d be lying to you if I thought the gains would be significant! .

Thanks for the info. We ended up with fairly similar builds. Did you ever end up putting the thing on a dyno?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by LucidMomentum

Yeah they're like a half hour away. In the meantime, anything I need to worry about if I'm using this procede and don't have the audio jack on my display? I don't want to brick a 500$ controller by being an idiot :p


*EDIT* Okay, so here's the verdict.


For some reason, on my 15 A/T there's extra crap in the glove compartment bay and I only have one bolt, not two. The ECU / EMC box does not come out fully, and the wires were really tough to get to.


I tried using the taps but like I said I couldn't get a crimper down there so I had to solder them. Not sure if I did it very well, as I could barely see what I was doing.


So, I go to wire up the power to the fuse and like others have said the wire on this procede was too short. So I soldered some more wire onto it and tapped it to the fuse.


Then came the fun part - the AUX connection. I'm not sure what version of the throttle switch / indicator I have at this point, because it's got a red LED display, an I/O rocker switch, and two sets of wires - one from the display, one from the foot switch.


The foot switch doesn't have any kind of JST harness, and I didn't want to risk breaking my only switch because I wanted something for my weekend drive if the procede didn't work. So I check the engine bay and I see 5 wires, so I was a bit apprehensive to tap into anything. The foot switch was insulated to, so I didn't mess with that.


I soldered the black wire from the AUX jack to the red wire from the foot pedal switch, or what little part of it was exposed after the insulation. It was late enough at this point that I was willing to take a guess.


Afterwards, I get a laptop and load up the controller. I turn the key to on and plug it in. Reading map, it says. Cool! Progress. I see the sport map and then go and load KoolBRZ's cool map instead. I see it load onto the procede, and assume that once it hits 100% it's now on the controller. I then see a little blue highlight on one of the squares - I'm assuming that means it's reading something from the ECU?


At that point I was told by the car that I had been dumb enough to leave the battery on too long, as it wouldn't turn over. So, I unplug the laptop from the procede, get my battery charger out, and wait a bit until I can get it to turn over.


I hear the ESC start up, then the series of beeps. Sweet! Then I wait for the engine to settle, and take it out for a drive.


The procede never kicked in. I didn't see the voltage meter change unless I used the foot switch with my hand.


So I go home, and it's basically midnight at that point and I have to prepare for my Pismo drive and Cars and Coffee on Saturday, so I call it quits for now, re mount the foot switch, and tuck all the procede wiring away until I feel patient enough to take another look at it.


I'm wondering, is it possible and how much does it cost to get a V2 controller + Foot switch harness? Maybe that will work better with the procede. Or is that not possible if I have the V1? How can I tell the difference?

@Robftss, @fenton, @Shiv@Openflash, @Sojhinn, any feedback / places to start looking into troubleshooting? It's been a long night and my original post was much less rational so I came back and edited it this morning.


If I can't get a new throttle switch to tap into, I may just consider removing the taps and solder and returning the procede. I may return it anyways, if Shiv's okay with me doing so after removing the aux jack. I don't really feel comfortable playing around anymore with the ECU wires being that tight.

Sorry just saw you quoted me. Guess tap stalk decided to crap out.

Take a picture of your foot switch. There's a possibility you may need to test each individual wire for the foot switch if there's 5 wires.

Looks like TM also called it. You can cut off the foot switch at tap one of the wires there.


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[Thobjo]

There was something about the procede shipping out with the wrong jack connector, can you please enlighten me ?

I ordered the one I was instructed to get twice on eBay but to me it seems like a regular headset to amp jack.

Forgot which tread/mail had the info.

Really looking forward to updated list next week and hopefully info regarding international orders

[predator800]

I just started auto crossing my car. If I was to ride the rev limiter would the procede know to stop the boost or would it still try and boost for the second or two I'm riding the rev limiter? (Still on the waiting list). If so can rob still put a switch somewhere to stop boost but keep the charger spooling not to creat drag.


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[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Sorry just saw you quoted me. Guess tap stalk decided to crap out.

Take a picture of your foot switch. There's a possibility you may need to test each individual wire for the foot switch if there's 5 wires.

Looks like TM also called it. You can cut off the foot switch at tap one of the wires there.

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Thanks guys. Since I'll have the whole afternoon today to get it working, I'll give it another shot. If I can't figure it out I may just return it and be content with how it runs now. It ran pretty great during the Pismo drive, even with just the foot switch.

*EDIT 1* Without changing anything I loaded up the procede software and ran through various revs / throttle positions. It moves left and right, up and down accordingly. So that works. I guess you guys were right and it's just the switch now that I need to work on. That seems pretty easy to handle though.

*EDIT 2* Looks like my red wire is signal / power, and my copper is ground. If I tap into the red, do I need to ground the copper to the old pedal bracket? I'd assume so, yes?

*EDIT 3* I think I know what it is now. The yellow square doesn't move at all, but the blue one does. So that means I have Crank signal soldered on, but not the Throttle signal wire, right?

*EDIT 4* So I resoldered the two ECM wires. When I load up the software now and rev it, I see the blue / purple square move around the map, which seems like it's working. However, the yellow square won't move at all. Do I still have a bad solder, or is that how it's supposed to be?

*EDIT 5* Well I just realized with any of the maps I won't see much of a drain on the batteries until I'm out on the road. So, I guess I should drive and see if it's working. Did anyone figure out what happened to @j_Zer0's problems? It seems I may be having the same issue. It all looks good, but so far I'm not seeing any signal from the procede to the ESC motor to spool up.

[DAEMANO]

Sorry to interrupt all this install business, but after a painstaking 5 hours under the car yesterday in 95 degree SoCal humid heat I got my O2 sensor straightened out and reflect-a-golded my oil pan. What this meant was I was able to attend the Church Auto / Jackson Racing dyno day in Long Beach today.

Fun day, but I'm sure what you all want to know is how did the car did. Here are the numbers. Super consistent pulls and nice AFRs' on another Hot and humid day (85 degrees w/ 80 pct humidity). Full post is here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...4&postcount=70
@DAEMANO - Phantom ESC v2.0 e85 w/ PROcede controller and full exhaust
223.4 WHP @ 7300 RPM
207.8 WTQ @ 3376 RPM

Phantom ESC 24v v2.0 + UEL + e85
OpenFlashTablet - OTS tune. PROcede controller.
TRD Drop-in filter (dirty)
CNT UEL Header (el-cheapo, but it does its' job, for now)
Ultimate Racing resonated FP/OP combo 2.75"
TRD USA Catback

@BRZ-Y - Phantom ESC v1.0 CA91 w/ v1 FTS footswitch (no PTS or PROcede), v 1.0 batteries (not 1.5x upgrade or 2.0 EXT16)
203 WHP @ 7300 RPM
182 WTQ @3386 RPM

BRZ-Y had just installed his Phantom kit bought from @Shutter and brought it straight to the dyno. Great meeting this very chill owner. I'll be passing along my 1.5x battery upgrade kit to him which I'm sure he'll put to its' paces. In the meanwhile does anyone ( @Shiv@Openflash , @fenton , @Robftss , @Sojhinn , @WRB5titch ) have a v1.0x e85 OFT tune file for him? Please chime in.

Video
https://vid.me/e/HXu0

The Dyno

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by LucidMomentum

Thanks guys. Since I'll have the whole afternoon today to get it working, I'll give it another shot. If I can't figure it out I may just return it and be content with how it runs now. It ran pretty great during the Pismo drive, even with just the foot switch.

*EDIT 1* Without changing anything I loaded up the procede software and ran through various revs / throttle positions. It moves left and right, up and down accordingly. So that works. I guess you guys were right and it's just the switch now that I need to work on. That seems pretty easy to handle though.

*EDIT 2* Looks like my red wire is signal / power, and my copper is ground. If I tap into the red, do I need to ground the copper to the old pedal bracket? I'd assume so, yes?

*EDIT 3* I think I know what it is now. The yellow square doesn't move at all, but the blue one does. So that means I have Crank signal soldered on, but not the Throttle signal wire, right?

*EDIT 4* So I resoldered the two ECM wires. When I load up the software now and rev it, I see the blue / purple square move around the map, which seems like it's working. However, the yellow square won't move at all. Do I still have a bad solder, or is that how it's supposed to be?

Yellow doesn't move you are good for the procede. Also when you edit. Try to tag one of us or just create another post. I don't see updates with you edit.


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[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

Yellow doesn't move you are good for the procede. Also when you edit. Try to tag one of us or just create another post. I don't see updates with you edit.


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Oh that's right, my bad.

Okay, so I went for two small drives, one with the black from the procede aux connector connected to the red wire from my foot switch, and then another with the wire connected to the black from the foot switch.

Both times, the procede read the blue / purple square and I could see when it was supposed to hit 100% boost. However I couldn't hear the usual whoosh of the snail, or see a voltage drop off the procede. Both times what would happen is it would stay around 28.5-28.7 and then rise up to 29.0 when I backed off the throttle after a 100% square on the procede.

Any ideas what might be the issue now? Do I need to ground the other wire of the foot switch when I hook up the aux jack wire to the foot switch wire? Should I see a drop in voltage when the procede tells the ESC motor to turn on? Could my viewing it on my laptop while driving cause it to not send the signal to the motor on the ESC?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by LucidMomentum

Oh that's right, my bad.

Okay, so I went for two small drives, one with the black from the procede aux connector connected to the red wire from my foot switch, and then another with the wire connected to the black from the foot switch.

Both times, the procede read the blue / purple square and I could see when it was supposed to hit 100% boost. However I couldn't hear the usual whoosh of the snail, or see a voltage drop off the procede. Both times what would happen is it would stay around 28.5-28.7 and then rise up to 29 when I backed off the throttle after a 100% square on the procede.

Any ideas what might be the issue now? Do I need to ground the other wire of the foot switch when I hook up the aux jack wire to the foot switch wire?

The easiest way to solve this is to cut off the switch and then connect the wire to either the shielding or the copper wire inside the shielding.

Otherwise you need to test each of those wires Until you find the right one. Unfortunately we are not sure which color it is because there was no standard.


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[LucidMomentum]

Originally Posted by Sojhinn

The easiest way to solve this is to cut off the switch and then connect the wire to either the shielding or the copper wire inside the shielding.

Otherwise you need to test each of those wires Until you find the right one. Unfortunately we are not sure which color it is because there was no standard.


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That's what I did, I mean. I cut the throttle switch and stripped back a portion of the wire and the shielding. Neither seemed to get me the result of the voltage drop occurring when boost should kick in according to the procede. However if I connect the two wires together, it does spool up the motor and drain some of the voltage.

Do I need to ground the one I don't connect the procede wire to? If neither work, is it an issue with the procede itself? Or is it an issue with the V1 controllers?

@Shiv@Openflash, if this doesn't work out would I be able to send it in for a refund, minus the cost to repair / remake the harness cause I've been stripping portions of the wiring to solder?