Honda K24 Swapped 2015 BRZ Ship of Thesus (NASA TT5)

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by Pat

Yeah, TT is certainly a different game than HPDE or open lapping. Congrats on getting out there and showing people what these things can do. That's aweseome.
I'm hoping to compete with Abe this year after my new BRZ shows up. He said those cars are faster than you on straights. Well, Abe's car will certainly be faster than mine in the corners, so it'll be an interesting year.
Bummer to hear about the bent wheels. I bent an EC-7R going off at Buttonwillow. It got replaced, fortunately, but after that wheel orders were for models that were not going to be discontinued.
And it sucks to hear about people not gridding properly. That happened all the time here for a couple years. Fortunately we got a new TT director a year ago and things seem to be getting cleaned up. I'm really hoping that's not a problem here this year. It's such a simple thing to get right, yet so many people get it wrong.

Yeah, I think I sent Abe over some data - not sure if he forwarded it on to you. The short and sweet is that one of my friends that runs 5 ran a first gen moved on to a 22 GR last year. 17x9 / 255 RC1 / MCS 1way / etc, no power mods except a catback.

I'll see if I can dig up the AIM overlay of our data that I made, but on the longer local straights (~110mph) the GR has me by a few mph by the end. Second gen is such a great car, I think you two will be pretty evenly matched in 5 with the usual mods on your car

The gridding thing wasn't a huge deal, I just let the stress get to me. Arizona events are usually pretty mellow in TT since we split it into two groups and everyone is friends with each other.

[jflogerzi]

So much win in this Thread!

[RedReplicant]

About to load the car up for this weekend at Attessa / Podium Club CCW with NASA AZ but I figured I'd throw what I've done over the last couple weeks in here.

My friends guilted me in to having a set of rear calipers powder coated



Pulled my Setrab 25 row since oil temps weren't making it over 185f and some of the other people running kswaps competitively haven't found an oil cooler to be a requirement. Works for me - less weight, less complication, and fewer failure points.



Front end looking a bit empty



Molded in a sheet of ABS to block off the bumper opening for the oil cooler.









I also cut down my splitter so it doesn't extend out past the bumper edge on the sides to cut some weight/drag. You can see my cut line on the picture without the front bumper above.

The fuel line with the KSwap vibrates around a bunch with no support so I cut it back close to the metal shield and used one of the olive AN adapters. Please ignore how much I mangled the poor thing trying to get a wrench on it. I also put together a 6an line to the rail from the line with some heat sleeve over top.

I also decided to omit the flex fuel sensor since the car was not tuned for flex and I'd already gotten a question about what fuel my dyno was done on via a competitor after they looked over the car. Don't want the thought that I'm doing something shady to even cross someones mind.





My general feeling about the fuel change is that I don't like it at all - during the off season in a couple of months I intend to run a new AN line from the connection below the tank, use a bulkhead fitting in the engine bay, and another line from there to the rail. I'll also add a fuel pressure sensor.

I also tried another throttle body adapter that is designed to prevent DBW TB failure and bolt breakage, but the production metal part was too warped to seal properly, so that will have to wait.



For now I am running an o-ring style adapter from Ichiban Engineering in Thailand and I have my KPower adapter as a track back up.





The BRZ style throttle body plug sucks - the pins aren't held securely in place, it is super wide, and there is no where to anchor it to prevent it from moving while driving. I ended up cutting it off and pinning into a DTM6.

I drilled the throttle body to anchor the connector that plugs into it since the Bosch TBs are known for failure if the plug has play. I need to make a DTM connector mount to properly secure it but I don't have time for this weekend, it'll do for now.





Chuckwalla tire contingency winnings showed up too, so that is nice



I'm also switching to the Radium catch can that lives on the driver side of the car and a valve cover with a single vent on the top with stock baffling. Bought the can from another 86 person and I will be setting it up at the track tomorrow morning.

Projects for the off-season starting after May 20th include:
Redoing the fuel line
Removing the stock unused fuel lines
Adding remote mounted fuel pressure sensor
Moving the oil temp / pressure sensor to be remote mounted (yeah, temp will be off, but it won't really matter)
Brace intake manifold
Make AN lines for the two coolant lines under the intake manifold
Duct the front end of the car and seal the bumper better
Switching to a Koyo radiator neck
Heatshielding the header
Transmission cooler
New seat, window net, and harness for the driver side for NASA ST compliance
Remove steering column lock
Remove surge tank
CAE Shifter
Chiller System
Fix window regulators
Level splitter across the front
Brake master firewall brace
Lower rear 4 turns (6mm)
MFactory 6th gear
Raise rear of splitter

It is all about small, incremental improvements and seat time now.

[captain awesome]

I bought a Bosch connector with new pins so at some point I could just recrimp and ditch the adapter. I only installed the adapter just in case I wanted to do before and after dyno runs if I ever got around to it. Do you think there is enough wire length to do that or is that a pipe dream?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I bought a Bosch connector with new pins so at some point I could just recrimp and ditch the adapter. I only installed the adapter just in case I wanted to do before and after dyno runs if I ever got around to it. Do you think there is enough wire length to do that or is that a pipe dream?

I think there is enough length, figuring out how to get it to work without tugging on the TB will probably be the difficult part

[RedReplicant]

Won TT5 today but the good ol TPS mismatch / relaxed DBW sensor mismatch settings codes popped heading out for both my second and third sessions. Experience at this point tells me it is the tell-tale before the Bosch DBW TBs shit themselves. I don't have a spare here right now so hopefully it hangs on for a session tomorrow morning.

I ordered two just to be safe. Car feels stupid good.

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Won TT5 today but the good ol TPS mismatch / relaxed DBW sensor mismatch settings codes popped heading out for both my second and third sessions. Experience at this point tells me it is the tell-tale before the Bosch DBW TBs shit themselves. I don't have a spare here right now so hopefully it hangs on for a session tomorrow

Nice work!

If you'd be willing to pry it apart of love to see the failure mode.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Nice work!

If you'd be willing to pry it apart of love to see the failure mode.

Yeah, I'll open it up. Code popped up like clockwork each session leaving the pits today but the car ran fine. Won TT5 today, but most importantly I went quicker than yesterday.

Not a great lap, but it gets to be the track record for now.

Lap time wise the way it kinda stacks up is that Chris Mayfield won TT3 in his Evora with a 1:35, TT4 was won with a 1:39, I won TT5 with a 1:41, and TT6 was won with a 1:45. I think a 1:40 is definitely doable as the car sits, just need more seat time there.

With 8 Maxxis tires won in the last 4 events I think I'm ahead cost wise in terms of switching to 17s at this point, so I'm pretty happy with that.

[RedReplicant]

Also, for anyone curious...

PB lap and previous session in ~80f ambient



Previous session was 60% out lap, five laps within ~1 sec of PB, and cool down lap. 216f was peak oil temp, no heat exchanger, no oil cooler.

[sfruski]

For reference I have opened up my brand new 74mm throttle body and attached photos.

My micrometer battery is dead so here are some rough dimensions of the duplex gear:
10T - ~ 1/2" diameter ~ 1/2" height
46T - ~ 2" diameter - ~1/4" height
Overall Height ~ 3/4"

A quick look around the internet yielded no metal replacements. If the duplex gear is the failure point, a custom metal replacement one might help.

Possibly even adding a thick nylon compatible lubricant might even fix the issue.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

RS2 in 2023 Have you played around with RS3 yet ? I used nothing but RS3 beta since my move to AIM.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

RS2 in 2023 Have you played around with RS3 yet ? I used nothing but RS3 beta since my move to AIM.

Haha, I tried the new UI a while ago and couldn't get used to it. I'll try again....

Originally Posted by sfruski

For reference I have opened up my brand new 74mm throttle body and attached photos.

My micrometer battery is dead so here are some rough dimensions of the duplex gear:
10T - ~ 1/2" diameter ~ 1/2" height
46T - ~ 2" diameter - ~1/4" height
Overall Height ~ 3/4"

A quick look around the internet yielded no metal replacements. If the duplex gear is the failure point, a custom metal replacement one might help.

Possibly even adding a thick nylon compatible lubricant might even fix the issue.

Thank you, I haven't opened mine yet but I suspect that the issue isn't with the gears - it is probably with however the two internal TPS work. The TB is smooth, it just faults from TPS compare. We shall see!

Replaced the gigantic Vibrant catch can with a Radium one, I still need to make a new AN line for it, but I am waiting for a new valve cover with the vent port in a different spot than now. Mostly did this to clean up the side of the motor.



I also ended up sending my harness in to KPower to be repaired yesterday... hopefully they're able to get it back to me before my next events on April 22/23. Unfortunately, one of the power wires came uncrimped from the main harness connector. I was able to extract the pin but the new Yazaki pin I crimped on wouldn't fit into the OEM Subaru connector. I also attempted to remove the bypass sub-harness that KPower had me test for something last year but the pin got stuck in the main connector and I was completely unable to extract it. My fault, shouldn't have messed with it.

I'd considered just buying a new OEM connector and repinning but after the OE pin wouldn't fit I figured it would be best to not make things worse. Over summer I will remove the OE Subaru connector and put in a bulkhead style Deutsch.

OE Subaru connector, if anyone needs one: https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.p...facturer_id=45

I guess worst case I borrow a Spec Miata to run in TT5 for the weekend to collect season points.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Haha, I tried the new UI a while ago and couldn't get used to it. I'll try again....

I had the luck of never using RS2 so for me it was easy. There is a lot of videos from AIM going over how to use it and comparing it to RS2

But enough thread jacking Your build is amazing by the way and hope you get your TB issues sorted

[redlined600]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

I had the luck of never using RS2 so for me it was easy. There is a lot of videos from AIM going over how to use it and comparing it to RS2

But enough thread jacking Your build is amazing by the way and hope you get your TB issues sorted

This was my opinion as well. If you've never used RS2, RS3 was probably easier but coming from RS2 it was confusing. I'm mostly converted to using RS3 now.

While I really appreciate AIM putting out all those instructional videos, each one could be condensed into about 15-30 min of actual useful information.