Excellent new BRZ / FR-S Drivetrain + Powertrain Pics

[Toyota fr-s]

Thanks WoW and OrbitalE for your responses... That is what I had in mind. Reducing your rotating assembly’s weight would improve your ability to reach higher revs faster and in theory putting you power to the ground faster.

Sounds more for a NA build (pulleys, flywheel, driveshaft, and all your internal rotating assembly) rather than for a FI application though.

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by Toyota fr-s

Thanks WoW and OrbitalE for your responses... That is what I had in mind. Reducing your rotating assembly’s weight would improve your ability to reach higher revs faster and in theory putting you power to the ground faster.

Sounds more for a NA build (pulleys, flywheel, driveshaft, and all your internal rotating assembly) rather than for a FI application though.

I wouldn't say there are PLENTY of people using them, but there is more than one manufacturer producing carbon or aluminum one piece driveshafts in the Subaru world. I don't really think it has anything to do with NA vs. FI though, as response is response no matter how you feed air into the engine.

[oneday]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

I wouldn't say there are PLENTY of people using them, but there is more than one manufacturer producing carbon or aluminum one piece driveshafts in the Subaru world. I don't really think it has anything to do with NA vs. FI though, as response is response no matter how you feed air into the engine.

But lack of inertia has negative effects too, most notable in an FI application (RPM drop when up shifting increases time for boost to build). Also lower inertia is harder on starters and makes 1st gear launches trickier. Not a big deal for a track only car, but some of that can be a PITA for a DD. A one-piece drive shaft will also make for more NVH since it looks like part of the coupler is a harmonic damper.

[old greg]

Originally Posted by oneday

Also lower inertia is harder on starters and makes 1st gear launches trickier.

Neither of those applies to drive shafts though.

[Toyota fr-s]

I agree, it doesn't have anything to do with the engine. The only reason I said it wouldn't be for an FI'd car is because with added boost, it wouldn't make sence to spend the extra cash on this mod. On NA applications, you want to put the power you have to the ground more effectively since it tends to be lower number than for a boosted car. just a thought, thats all.

Kinna thinking about buying one of these motors before buying the car...

[dsgerbc]

I might be slow, but that the first time I saw a picture of the proper side of strut-to-knuckle bolts. Still not close enough to say 100% there's no camber adjustment. I know MotoIQ claimed there is no adjustment, but they didn't have a proper pic.

[Xdragonxb0i]

Originally Posted by powertrip

It's the same way the germans do it, makes changing the oil/filter very easy. It's like that on my mercedes

oh i see, i only worked on them JapeNEese Cars...(country voice)
it is conveintly placed though.

[Alfie]

NASTY looking header, can't wait to see a better design there!

[arghx7]

There are a lot of people in this thread making assumptions or hating on designs they don't fully understand.

Originally Posted by Blue Shadow

I am looking on the photos and do not see ports for an oil cooler. Will there be one or provisions to install one?

It could be a water-to-oil heat exchanger just like on EJ engines.

Originally Posted by Jack Black

Stamped steel oil pan is a bit of a throwback. All my newer cars made have had cast aluminum.

How do you know it isn't magnesium? You do know that they have been using magnesium oil pans for years right?

Originally Posted by Crashoverride

With the headers so close to the oil pan aren't they worried about coking.... basicly boiling and charing the oil in the pan....which causes rings to fail, and carbon buildup through the motor.

There may be heat shields for it that have been removed for display purposes.

Originally Posted by Alfie

NASTY looking header, can't wait to see a better design there!

What are you talking about? It's separating the exhaust ports according to the firing order. It's basically an OEM 4-2-1 header designed to eliminate interference from the blowdown pulses. That's why the front and rear cylinders combine into separate tubes. How else could you do it besides tweaking the runner lengths a bit? Space is tight... I guarantee you that those headers will last much much longer than almost any aftermarket piece. Look at those flex pipes. It's probably a dual-wall design too, which is better at holding heat in.

And yes there is a cat... you can't build a car that doesn't pass emissions standards. So you could pick up a few HP by changing it out for a less restrictive one, assuming that it won't throw a code when you do so.

[Alfie]

"It's probably a dual-wall design too, which is better at holding heat in."

Didnt think! True that, true that! Just not a pretty piece.
I was imagining a lythe stainless piece with a much smaller cat since D.I. burns cleaner for emission~

[86design]

Originally Posted by Alfie

NASTY looking header, can't wait to see a better design there!

i can't wait either

[arghx7]

I'll agree it's not pretty, but if you take off the heatshields most OEM exhaust manifolds look like that now in terms of the color and the welds.

[wichiewichie]

Originally Posted by arghx7

How do you know it isn't magnesium? You do know that they have been using magnesium oil pans for years right?

Originally Posted by Draco-REX

I think it might be a cost issue. Look for the STI/TRD version in the future to have aluminum suspension components. That's the way Subaru usually does things.

I'm happy with a steel pan. Considering how often I see cast aluminum pans with stripped oil drain plugs, I'm happy with steel.

I think that the reason for the stamped steel oil pan is due to the lack of need for a cast aluminum pan. This new generation of subaru engine block are designed to be one piece, instead of the two piece block like the one of EJXX engines. This (being one piece) makes the block much stronger, so for this reason there is no reason for a heavy duty, strong cast alloy pan with ribs and all sort of strengthening tricks for stiffness. So at the end it is way cheaper to use a stamped steel pan. Inline 4 cylinders are a different case, those require a lot of stiffness in the bottom end to remain stable at high RPMs because of the unbalanced nature of those engines.

Also, the one piece block is the reason for the "bent" connecting rods. These are needed to ease (maybe make possible) the assembly of the engine.

[old greg]

You are incorrect about it being a one-piece block. It is still formed from two halves, how else would they get the crankshaft in? The asymmetric connecting rods allow the motor to be assembled in the traditional manner, with the pistons, rods and wrist pins put together outside of the block and inserted as a unit. On the EJ, the rods had to be attached to the crank before putting the block halves together with the pistons and pins inserted afterwards as the connecting rod bolts were inaccessible once the blocks were assembled. Having the bolts rotated downward allows them to be accessed from below, this speeds up the production process and makes it cheaper for Subaru.