Which frs-s should I get? (Stock turbocharged or built motor w/ custom turbo)

[ansnwng]

Hello people,

I am currently in a market for frs drives coz I love the way they handle. I have two frs right now in mind right now and I am having a hard time deciding which one I should go for. The first frs has a a full blown turbo kit installed with good supporting and 60k kms on the clock. The second frs has a built motor with forged pistons, rods, ARP head studs along with a custom dual ball bearing turbo from Garrett. The motor is built by a very reputable shop in Vancouver (Bill from Independent Speed Shop) and has around 8000 km since the rebuild (owner has receipts to proof plus Bill has already confirmed with me that he did indeed build the motor). The only thing that is kinda worried is that the build motor is pushing around 400-450hp and it still on stock transmission. And I also heard stock block can't take too much boost or else it will go kaboom so this built motor seems like a good deal. Lastly, both car are asking for the same price (~$1000 difference but I am sure I can probably talk him down a little too)

Here's the mod list for the first car:
Mod List:
Drivetrain:
ACT Clutch with Lightweight Flywheel
Forged Clutch Fork
Forged Clutch Fork Pivot
Amsoil GL-4 Transmission and Transaxle Gear Oil

Wheels/Suspension:
720 Form 17x9 +35 Wheels with 245/40/R17 Nitto Invos - slight curb rash on passenger side wheel
Eibach Sportline Springs
SPC Camber Bolts
Whiteline Subframe Inserts (KDT 922)
Whiteline Differential Mount Bushing (KDT 925)

Brakes:
Winmax W4 Brake Pads Front/Winmax W3 Brake Pads Rear
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
ATE Typ 200 Brake Fluid - Freshly Fleshed

Engine/Exhaust:
Full Blown Motorsports Engine Oil Cooler
Radium Engineering PCV Oil Catch Can
Full Blown EL Header
FBM Aluminum Wrinkled Black intercooler Piping with couplers
FBM 3" Downpipe
FBM 550hp Intercooler with cast tanks
FBM Intake Pipe
FBM Dump tube
Precision Turbo 39mm wastegate
Garret GT2871R Turbo
Tial 50mm Q BOV
Dual slim fans
Deatschwerks 290LPH Fuel Pump
Nameless Performance Overpipe with Resonator
Perrin 2.5 inch cat back exhaust (resonated)

Misc
Weighted Shift Knob
Autometer Boost Gauge
Ecutek Tune
Ecutek License
Ecutek Cable

And for the second car the owner didn't provide me with a mod list but this is what his post's description is:
"Original Owner front New.
Pearl White - 6spd - carbon fiber roof
Fully build - forged internals - Custom dual ball bearing Precision Turbo set up
Ecutek Management system
e85 with flex fuel - pump gas or e85 self tuning
Greddy 3" exhaust - kw coilovers - act clutch - too many parts to list
widebody flares
deep dish wheels - hawl brakes
over $20,000 into the motor alone. 8000km since build
low 11 second 1/4 mile"

I am coming from a skyline GTR and I want something that's more modern that's decent on gas and at the same time has some power (around 200-350whp will be enough for me). I will also be driving this car thru the winter so anyone that drives a frs in winter can give me their thought on how it handles winter would be appreciated too! If I am not getting either of these two cars then I will look into some evo 8s or 9s

[Will BRZ]

I’d go with the built one if the prices are that similar. You said it’s a reputable shop and you got to speak to the man who did it too. The owner has receipts too so that’s a plus. It’s always a gamble to pick up a heavily modified used car so just pick wisely. Good luck

[Dave-ROR]

Drive both. Have a shop inspect the one you like more. Buy if all is good.

No one here can really answer your question without inspecting the cars.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by ansnwng

Hello people,

I am currently in a market for frs

Welcome to our forum, ansnwng - ,

I'd suggest you pick the one that has the color you think is prettiest.

(sorry, I'm not a fan of power modded FR-Ss)

As far as driving in the winter, just get some good winter tires and take it easy.


humfrz

[Mr.ac]

Welcome.

As much as I'm a fan of these cars, any NA with add on forced induction will have its life expectancy cut in half. So keep that in mind when the engine blows. Even if it was "built" by pros there is always an expiration date.

If I was in your shoes I would go with a your second choice. A third would be a STI or WRX if you still want that boxer rumble/power/mpg.

Also ask yourself why are these selling these heavy modded cars?
99% they are trying to get rid of a headache.
If you really want this platform and not deal with someone else's headache, buy a low km car and do all the power mods yourself. That way all the headaches would be yours alone.

[DarkPira7e]

I'd go with the car that is not built. Buying something when you're not sure is done can be a real hassle when something goes wrong and you're trying to diagnose an issue.

Built engines also need more care and have a lower life expectancy (and since you mentioned driving in the snow, it's extremely important to drive the car only after it's come up to temperature. Your pistons need time to get warm and expand). As long as the stock block car has a great tune and you're not building boost at low rpm (avoid positive manifold pressure below 3000rpm) it should be fine.

The first car also seems to be much better rounded. Anytime someone says "too much to list" they either have poor attention to detail, or are covering for not knowing. You'll easily make your who goal with the 2871 and it sounds like it's a quality build.

[soundman98]

I don't like buying others projects. Far too often, others projects become my nightmare.

[WNDSRFR]

I would get the built one and turn down the boost. Around 300-350 hp is a good balance between reliability and power.

[Milhouse86]

I am about to have my engine built. I have been spending a good amount of time to make sure I do this right. Or as right as I can, engine has some oil issues.

So I would echo the advice from above and say be very careful inheriting someone else's Gremlins.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[mrg666]

I have a modified FRS. It is still very reliable and I love it because of the way I modified it. But I exactly know how easily it could be done wrong and the car could be a nightmare. Don't buy a modified twin, I wouldn't. Of course if you are completely ready to fix anything comes your way ... but you would not be here asking this question

[ls1ac]

I agree with WNDSRFR , a strong rebuild and detune some and should be good. You could guess the PO busted the first engine with too much power and had it rebuilt.

[ROFL it's Waffle]

Originally Posted by ansnwng

I have two frs right now..... blah blah bla....Here's the mod list for the first car: blah blah blah....And for the second car.... blah blah blah.....

This gave me an instant hard-on and was physically unable to read what you actually wrote.


So the first car listed out all the mods.


The second car leaves too much to the imagination "Greddy 3" exhaust - kw coilovers - act clutch - too many parts to list..."


I'm kind of leaning towards the first car. Whenever someone says "I put $20k into the motor", I tend to default to "he's trying to over-sell/over-justify the asking price." I'm sure both sellers are good mechanics, but... it's equally important to know what you're selling so customers know what they're buying.

[ROFL it's Waffle]

Originally Posted by Mr.ac

Also ask yourself why are these selling these heavy modded cars?
99% they are trying to get rid of a headache.
If you really want this platform and not deal with someone else's headache, buy a low km car and do all the power mods yourself. That way all the headaches would be yours alone.

There's a chance too, that the OP is a Tuning God and buying the most modded car is like shopping at a flea market (crazy savings, if you know what you're doing).

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle

The second car leaves too much to the imagination "Greddy 3" exhaust - kw coilovers - act clutch - too many parts to list..."

"Custom dual ball bearing Precision Turbo set up"


The word "custom" always makes me nervous when talking car mods!