18x10.5 +50mm, Meaty Tire - Clearance to Coilovers

[traffic335]

Does anyone know if a set of 18x10.5s with +50mm offset will clear coilovers? I plan to run around -2.5/-1.7 degrees and a meaty tire, around 285 on pulled/rolled fenders.

Put another way, this is also comparable to let's say an 18x9.5 with a +60mm offset.

It's a bit hard to measure this accurately under the car. I am most concerned with the inner clearance to aftermarket coilovers.

[Jdmjunkie]

I am going to say no.

[PulsarBeeerz]

I don't think so. 18x10 +35-45mm do fit.

[traffic335]

I have a 280ish tire (slick) on an 18x9.5 +45mm and if feeling through the wheel to the inner wheel well, it seems that there is about 20mm of clearance to the spring. That will change under compression, but I am thinking I have at least 12mm more to take advantage of. Meaning, if I were to have 18x10s, it seems like I could conservatively get away with 18x10 +50mm.

Seeing if anyone else has pushed the limit.

[whataboutbob]

I ran 17x9.5et45s with 295/30R17 Hoosier A7s at one point. Here's the things that I had to deal with that you should also be considering (esp with 18s Vs 17s):

1) Front tire/wheel inner side to coilover
2) Front tire/wheel inner side to steering rack tie rods at full lock
3) Front tire/wheel outer side to front end of frame rail (behind fender liner, protrudes 2+ inches into wheelwell) at full lock
4) Front tire surface to chassis under full compression
5) Rear tire/wheel inner side to coilover
6) Rear tire/wheel inner side to trailing arm/e-brake cable
7) Rear tire/wheel outer side to rear bumper/fender mount

I had -4 deg front camber, -3 rear camber. I was running 10 mm spacers in front, no spacer in rear. 1.25 in drop in front, 1 in drop in rear. Rolled front and rear fenders, about 1in pull on fender lip in front. No front fender liners, cut and hammered down to flush front end of frame rail.

Hope this helps,

Bob

[traffic335]

Bob - it appears that I will likely need the 10mm spacer at front if I go with the 10.5 +50. I observe much less clearance in the front to the coil spring than I do at the back; 10mm seems subjectively to be that difference.

In the rear, I have clearanced the e-brake cable and brake lines, and am about to modify the bumper/fender mount to make it all work.

For the front, I have Todoroki +30mm bolt on fenders which I am hoping allows me to get some extra space to make up the difference on the spacer.

I am aiming to package a 305/645/18 on all 4 without cutting any body parts - only pulling/rolling.

Originally Posted by whataboutbob

I ran 17x9.5et45s with 295/30R17 Hoosier A7s at one point. Here's the things that I had to deal with that you should also be considering (esp with 18s Vs 17s):

1) Front tire/wheel inner side to coilover
2) Front tire/wheel inner side to steering rack tie rods at full lock
3) Front tire/wheel outer side to front end of frame rail (behind fender liner, protrudes 2+ inches into wheelwell) at full lock
4) Front tire surface to chassis under full compression
5) Rear tire/wheel inner side to coilover
6) Rear tire/wheel inner side to trailing arm/e-brake cable
7) Rear tire/wheel outer side to rear bumper/fender mount

I had -4 deg front camber, -3 rear camber. I was running 10 mm spacers in front, no spacer in rear. 1.25 in drop in front, 1 in drop in rear. Rolled front and rear fenders, about 1in pull on fender lip in front. No front fender liners, cut and hammered down to flush front end of frame rail.

Hope this helps,

Bob

[traffic335]

Bob I forgot to ask you, did you ever rub on the rear coil with the 9.5+45/295s?

[whataboutbob]

Originally Posted by traffic335

Bob I forgot to ask you, did you ever rub on the rear coil with the 9.5+45/295s?

No. I was/am also running the SPL RLCAS with the coil moved to the outside mounting point.