Brake rotor wear after 3 track days

[Edkwok99]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

Another thing to keep in mind: the car actually measures how quickly you go from the throttle to the brake, and how quickly you press the brake down.

Quick/aggressive/panicked transition to brakes, especially with quick application of the brakes amplifies the response of the braking system. The idea is that if you're driving and suddenly need to hit the brakes to avoid an accident the car will apply the brakes harder/faster that way.

The result is you go right to ABS levels of braking.

I had a situation where I was alongside a car at 75mph on the highway approaching construction. Traffic in her lane was stopped, mine was open, and we reached the point where it became apparent she wasn't paying any attention at all. I braked "moderately" and shifted to the left shoulder to give her room to escape the impact via the left lane and the car basically stood on its nose to stop. (She never touched the brakes or noticed the car she slammed into.)

The aggro braking system pulled us up about 10-15 feet short of the debris field.

But on a race track you're going to want the ABS turned off.

I did not think I hit ABS activation while on track. RT660 was warmed up before I went full throttle/brake on track. I did not notice any lockup or computer tried to intervene my brake input. I don’t slam on the brake on the track like an emergency situation, all my inputs were smooth.

The tracks I went to don’t require trail braking. So I always brake in a straight line.

[Edkwok99]

Originally Posted by WolfpackS2k

How cheap are GR86 rotors? In my experience cryo-treated rotors are usually a good bit more expensive. In many cases it's just cheaper to toss your rotors and replace.

I think that is what I am going to do. It is better to be safe than sorry.
I just want to share how weak the stock rotor is.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Edkwok99

I think that is what I am going to do. It is better to be safe than sorry.
I just want to share how weak the stock rotor is.

Did you not listen to a single thing that was said>
The rotors are not "weak". Your braking is off.

[Edkwok99]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Did you not listen to a single thing that was said>
The rotors are not "weak". Your braking is off.

Let me rephrase it. The stock rotor could not performance to the standard of my lap time.
Would you please elaborate “your braking is off”?

[Spektyr]

Since it's not possible to be sure the ABS isn't engaging without looking at ECU logs, why would anyone believe you can tell whether the ABS was activated?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Edkwok99

I think that is what I am going to do. It is better to be safe than sorry.
I just want to share how weak the stock rotor is.

It's normal for a cast rotor, there is nothing "weak" about it. I am on stoptech 328mm bbk in my gen 1 and they do the same thing. Also many pictures of AP and Wilwood BBK's in the link shared to the Essex article. There is nothing wrong with it, you should get many many track days of service out of them.

[racingfool]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

they're basically standing on ABS every braking zone.

That's what it's for.

Most drivers these days don't have a clue about threshold braking.

[Edkwok99]

I learn the physics and the activation of an ABS at a race school. And I did not feel the ABS activation at the track, unless the data can prove me wrong.

By the way, why do some of you keep on mentioning ABS? ABS is trading off stopping distance to car steering, so the car can turn during hard braking such as in an emergency situation and/or on wet surface. The track days were all on a sunny day and I always do most of the braking on a straight. I do not slam on the brake and dive bomb prior to a corner. I drive smooth and fast as taught from a race school.

There was no brake fade, pedal was firmed all the time. So it can’t be the pad overheating.

Based on all the facts, the rotor had exceeded the operating temperature and/or heat cycling threshold

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Edkwok99

Based on all the facts, the rotor had exceeded the operating temperature.

No, it hasn't. The cracking is caused from the differential in temperature, IE cooled down temp(ambient) vs peak operating temp. If the rotor stayed at 1500F it's whole life, it would never crack. If it stayed at sub 200F it's whole life, it would never crack. You are seeing the effect of a cast part being heated and cooled too rapidly.

[Edkwok99]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

No, it hasn't. The cracking is caused from the differential in temperature, IE cooled down temp(ambient) vs peak operating temp. If the rotor stayed at 1500F it's whole life, it would never crack. If it stayed at sub 200F it's whole life, it would never crack. You are seeing the effect of a cast part being heated and cooled too rapidly.

Thanks. I agree

[jflogerzi]

My Current Rotors in the front look like this and they are fine. completely normal!

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Edkwok99

I didn’t feel any brake fade at all. Brake pedal was firm all day.

Fade = overheated pad = lack of stopping power

Soft pedal = overheated fluid = long pedal

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Edkwok99

I did not think I hit ABS activation while on track. RT660 was warmed up before I went full throttle/brake on track. I did not notice any lockup or computer tried to intervene my brake input. I don’t slam on the brake on the track like an emergency situation, all my inputs were smooth.

The tracks I went to don’t require trail braking. So I always brake in a straight line.

Most corners benefit from some trail braking, particularly if you're in socal.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Spektyr

Since it's not possible to be sure the ABS isn't engaging without looking at ECU logs, why would anyone believe you can tell whether the ABS was activated?

You'd be surprised how many folks swear they don't use ABS, and then I see 1000psi braking system pressure.