Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[Qwimby1]

There's a You Tube video suggesting that the lower setting should be 75% rather than the 60% I've seen elsewhere. The stated reason is that it's to easy to kill the engine with a 60% setting. I plan to finish my install Tuesday. Can anyone advise?

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

There's a You Tube video suggesting that the lower setting should be 75% rather than the 60% I've seen elsewhere. The stated reason is that it's to easy to kill the engine with a 60% setting. I plan to finish my install Tuesday. Can anyone advise?

If your talking about throttle input. I ran my twin set up at 75% throttle

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[Qwimby1]

I have a separate post on this, but hope maybe someone here will see it. The system I bought doesn't have labels on the two mini plugs for throttle switch and volt meter. The install video clearly has them marked. I have no idea which one to plug where, and I'm really concerned about damaging the controller. Does anyone have a suggestion?

[Target70]

I'll take a look at mine when I get a chance. I'm not sure if they are in the same locations in different versions but maybe it will help

just checked and I only have a single 4 pin connector running through the firewall. assuming Rob kept the wire color consistent I can check to see where each color wires run to on mine.

all the wires attached to my switch and meter are black so that didn't help sorry

[Qwimby1]

Originally Posted by Target70

I'll take a look at mine when I get a chance. I'm not sure if they are in the same locations in different versions but maybe it will help

just checked and I only have a single 4 pin connector running through the firewall. assuming Rob kept the wire color consistent I can check to see where each color wires run to on mine.

all the wires attached to my switch and meter are black so that didn't help sorry

Thanks. Mine is version 2.5. I have two mini plugs coming off the controller. They have dual connections just like stereo audio plugs. The switch has a red-ring indicator around the receptacle, while the meter is bare metal. I think I see a slight reddish color on one of the pins, but I hate to go on just that. I'm hoping it doesn't come down to blind guess work, and maybe frying the controller if I guess wrong. On the install video, one of the plugs has an obvious red marker.

[Target70]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

Thanks. Mine is version 2.5. I have two mini plugs coming off the controller. They have dual connections just like stereo audio plugs. The switch has a red-ring indicator around the receptacle, while the meter is bare metal. I think I see a slight reddish color on one of the pins, but I hate to go on just that. I'm hoping it doesn't come down to blind guess work, and maybe frying the controller if I guess wrong. On the install video, one of the plugs has an obvious red marker.

I know it's dangerous to assume anything so take this for what it is, a logical guess.

If your voltage meter has an on/off switch on it like mine does, You will have to plug it in and have it turned on to energize the unit. So even plugging it in the wrong port shouldn't be able to damage anything as it wouldn't be energized.

If I had to make the guess, I would disconnect the batteries from the supercharger(purely to make myself feel better), leave the petal switch unplugged, and plug the voltage meter in with your best guess based on the color you mentioned, and flip the power on. The unit should play a little chime when you turn it on even without the battery pack, as all the control and charger circuitry is run off the 12v starter battery. If it is in the wrong connector, it should remain off as said above. Also since the switch connector is running to a low voltage relay circuit that is not powered up do to the meter not being in place and turned on, there should be no voltage present. And even if there were, and the display somehow shorted the relay, It couldn't activate anything because the batteries are unplugged.

But that's just my 2 Cents.

[Qwimby1]

Thanks for that. Your plan would seem to reduce the risk considerably. It has to be plugged into the controller to activate those plugs no matter what, and the controller is my main concern, given the experience of our colleague here.

[WNDSRFR]

I looked at mine and sure enough it has the red band on the switch connector. Otherwise they are identical. I even measured the voltage on the connector going to the meter. (Nothing there).
Target70's plan sounds pretty logical to me.
Good luck.
The weather is just getting right for the ESC. (It works noticably better in the cold weather.)

[Qwimby1]

Whaddayaknow. The damn thing works! I never thought I'd see it. I haven't even flashed the tune yet, but what a difference. I won't have to worry about hard-to-get E85 anymore. I guessed right on the connection for the volt meter and throttle switch. I jumped straight up when it spun right off the bat.

[Qwimby1]

Well it didn't take long for a problem to occur. The voltmeter stopped working. I wiggled the wire a bit right at the plug and it came on, but intermittent as the wire flexed. It's likely that the wire connection to the plug is bad, or perhaps the female plug on the switch. At any rate, it's going to be far too delicate for me to fix. Maybe a good car stereo shop? I tested with the ignition on, and the blower works when I engage the throttle, so at least I know it works without the gauge. Right now I'm afraid to touch it for fear of making it worse. I want to get it fixed, but do I really need that gauge? I know it indicates certain fault codes and overheating. Is it something you look at all the time? Dumb question, but I guess the on/off switch on the gauge doesn't control the whole system. Just the gauge? Oh boy....

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

Well it didn't take long for a problem to occur. The voltmeter stopped working. I wiggled the wire a bit right at the plug and it came on, but intermittent as the wire flexed. It's likely that the wire connection to the plug is bad, or perhaps the female plug on the switch. At any rate, it's going to be far too delicate for me to fix. Maybe a good car stereo shop? I tested with the ignition on, and the blower works when I engage the throttle, so at least I know it works without the gauge. Right now I'm afraid to touch it for fear of making it worse. I want to get it fixed, but do I really need that gauge? I know it indicates certain fault codes and overheating. Is it something you look at all the time? Dumb question, but I guess the on/off switch on the gauge doesn't control the whole system. Just the gauge? Oh boy....

This wires inside the voltmeter can become desoldered. Disconnect all power from the system at the batteries, and then check to see if the voltmeter wires have become loose on the inside of the plastic voltmeter housing. If so, re-solder. Happened to me once, was a relatively easy fix.

[Qwimby1]

Thanks. Will give that a look. Can't do it for a few days. Any idea if there's harm in driving it for a short time till I can try a fix?

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

Thanks. Will give that a look. Can't do it for a few days. Any idea if there's harm in driving it for a short time till I can try a fix?

The compressor might not turn on or could turn on unexpectedly. Would remove the compressor and put on factory intake tube and switch off the ESC until you can fix it.

[WNDSRFR]

Originally Posted by Qwimby1

Well it didn't take long for a problem to occur. The voltmeter stopped working. I wiggled the wire a bit right at the plug and it came on, but intermittent as the wire flexed. It's likely that the wire connection to the plug is bad, or perhaps the female plug on the switch. At any rate, it's going to be far too delicate for me to fix. Maybe a good car stereo shop? I tested with the ignition on, and the blower works when I engage the throttle, so at least I know it works without the gauge. Right now I'm afraid to touch it for fear of making it worse. I want to get it fixed, but do I really need that gauge? I know it indicates certain fault codes and overheating. Is it something you look at all the time? Dumb question, but I guess the on/off switch on the gauge doesn't control the whole system. Just the gauge? Oh boy....

Congratulations on getting it to work!
As far as the on/off switch goes, yes it does turn the entire system on and off. Not just the meter.
You would probably be alright running without the meter but I wouldn't risk it. Replacement compressors are really hard to find.