Irace86.2.0's KPower Turbo K24 Swap

[Irace86.2.0]

To be fair, I wish I could isolate what part of the car is making noises. There is 2mm clearance at some points near the subframe and oil pan. Could that be causing a lot of noise, and it could be fixed? I don't know. My cats failed, so for now, I am running straight pipe, which isn't bad on the highway, but for a five mile commute to work, it is a little loud, even with a relatively quiet catback. That could be causing a lot of noise too. I don't know if I could use something to dampen out some of the noise from the transmission with sound deadening. I think there are a few things I could try to clearance the car better, but I just don't have the space to pull the engine again and make modifications.

The supercharger is okay on pump gas on a low boost pulley, but the power band and car come alive with a bar of boost or more on E85. There is no way I would feel short of torque with a FA24 with an Edelbrock/Harrop supercharger on E85 and low boost pulley. With a low boost pulley and on pump gas, the FA20's stock power curve felt raised, but there was still a dip or lull in low end torque. It always felt like it needed more. E85 was a big boost for a high compression motor on forced induction. At a bar of boost on E85, the torque curve down low jumps from 2-3psi to 5-7psi, and the top end has about 15psi, so the stock torque curve is completely eliminated, and there is just a fat torque curve.

If I only had pump gas I would do an AIG 10.5:1 block and build a FA24 with a Harrop kit, but I'll probably just move on from this platform. The aftermarket support for the FA24 and GR86 is dead. At best, it is a fraction of what the first gen had, especially in forced induction. I probably won't hold my breath for a new kit.

[Irace86.2.0]

I pulled the transmission out...again. I keep telling my wife it'll be the last time. It is never the last time.

I pulled the clutch. I noticed a little bit of wear to part of the flywheel, but not on the main contact surface; it was on the inner section. When I examined the clutch discs, there was a bolt that was worn a little like a millimeter or two on top of the bolt, so I figured it must have been what made contact. When I went to remove all six of the bolts in order to separate the clutch discs and center plate, there was one bolt that was harder to get out. After examining the bolts, I noticed that these bolts had been cut to length from longer bolts. Hmmm. Seems a little janky. I examined the depth of each bolt, and it is clear that some of the bolts were cut a little shorter than others by a thread or two, which allowed them to fully screw all the way into the receiver. This is probably why one was rubbing on the flywheel because it wasn't just not screwed in fully, but it couldn't because it was cut slightly too high. I sanded them to proper length, so they will all seat fully into the receiver.

The receiver is connected to the ceramic disc, and the organic disc has six holes that can slide back and forth over these studs. The truss screws/bolts seen below don't actually hold the two discs and center plate together; they just bolt to the receiver, and the organic disc and plate can slide along the studs until the clutch is released and everything sandwiches tight. The heads of the truss bolts just keep the organic disc from sliding completely apart.


(Previous pic for reference. No new pics this time.)


Anyways, after I fixed that issue, I move my attention to the center disc. I ground away the ruff cut lines off the center plate until it was smooth, and then I sanded it using 320 grit to a light polish finish, chamfering the edges, so there were no burs. I did this on all six interfaces of the center disc, and then I ground and sanded the holes that articulate with the receiver to make sure those were butter smooth, and then I polished the aluminum surface of the pressure plate, again, removing any burs from the corners or across the surface. I just used the sand paper on the aluminum, barely working much of the anodized finish off, but it feels smoother on all surfaces. I applied the smallest film of high temp grease that is used on the snout for the TOB; I put this on all sliding points, but again, the finest film because I don't want anything working to the clutch disc (the outer section can't anyways). The clutch assembly slides much better now with smooth surfaces instead of imperfections and burs, plus there is a half a millimeter to a millimeter of more tolerance for metal expansion, so that should be good.

The clutch is installed, so that is good. I have a half day tomorrow to try to get the transmission back in, and then I have Thursday. Crossing my fingers this makes a difference for disengagement. If I could have that then it would be far more tolerable.

[Irace86.2.0]

Got everything together yesterday. Checked for exhaust leaks today after the exhaust sealant had a day to seal. Adjusted the pedal height back down because everything is releasing and shifting perfectly now. Not sure if it was just that high bolt or sanding the sides smooth and applying high temp grease or all of it, but it drives great now. Engagement is easier now too—less hop of the clutch.

[Irace86.2.0]

***SOLD THE CAR***

I'm ready for something new. Let her go to a new home.

[spcmafia]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

***SOLD THE CAR***

I'm ready for something new. Let her go to a new home.

WHAT!

Man, what a journey that was. Insights on what you’re looking at for your next car?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by spcmafia

WHAT!

Man, what a journey that was. Insights on what you’re looking at for your next car?

I was a diehard manual man like to the day I die literally, and I was trying to buy a manual SUV for my wife, even considering swapping a EDM manual into a USDM vehicle, but now I just want something simpler for a while. After driving a Tesla Model 3 (no transmission) and then driving a 991 C2S and 718 4.0 both with a PDK, the autos are good enough to not be miserable.

We are waiting on the housing market to improve, so I don't want to dump bigger money into a car like a higher end used 911 or new Lotus Emira. Choices are a 981 CS, 997.2 C2S, Audi TTS/TTRS. I'd like to get the 997, but I might need to settle to get into something, as the BRZ was my daily.

We hydroplaned our Q5 3.0T into the meridian and totaled that out. Replaced it was a SQ5 same day I sold the BRZ, so I need to keep an eye out now that I've finalized those deals.

All three of those cars are still fetching a premium. TT is discontinued, and the TTS is basically a rarer Golf R, and the TTRS with the 5-cylinder is "half a R8" and rare too. The 981 is the last gen of the 6 cylinder Cayman outside of the 718 GTS 4.0, so those are a premium. The 997.2 is the first year of the PDK and direct injection and last of the pre-VAG and mechanical rack more analog short wheelbase small size 911's, so they fetch a premium.

I don't want a convertible. I want something premium/luxury. I want something small dimensions (not a sedan). I want something reasonably reliable. Evora is a maybe, but likely not. I'm not a fan of the Supra. GR86 is a maybe too, but probably not. I would likely modify it and be back to where I started.

[pope]

Challenge Hellcat Redeye Widebody

Go for something completely different

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by pope

Challenge Hellcat Redeye Widebody

Go for something completely different

Rented a Mustang GT with the Hertz GT350 package. What a turd. I don't get the appeal of pony cars. I can't imagine a larger sport sedan/muscle car. Zero interest.

[86Tony]

What was your reason on sellin the kswap 86? Im planning to do the k swap but im not fully committed yet. I picked up some parts for the swap but im still on the fence. My car has been sitting for the past 3 years. It currently on a built fa20 that has no issues. Just always loved k20s and was always somethin i want to do when i got my 86 in 2015. So i would love to know if it was worth the time and hassle to do the swap. Was there somethin about the swap that you just didnt enjoy? Did the car run better drive wise?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by 86Tony

What was your reason on sellin the kswap 86? Im planning to do the k swap but im not fully committed yet. I picked up some parts for the swap but im still on the fence. My car has been sitting for the past 3 years. It currently on a built fa20 that has no issues. Just always loved k20s and was always somethin i want to do when i got my 86 in 2015. So i would love to know if it was worth the time and hassle to do the swap. Was there somethin about the swap that you just didnt enjoy? Did the car run better drive wise?

Project cars are project cars, and the more power you put in and the more it is modified like a track car, the more it moves away from being an enjoyable daily driver. It had too much noise, vibration, harshness, etc.

I wanted something a bit more premium, a bit more refined, much more stock, etc.

[Irace86.2.0]

Got a 981 Cayman S PDK. First time getting something that wasn't a manual.

It is slow compared to the BRZ because it is down by 150-175hp, but it is far more composed and has better traction, even compared to a stock BRZ. Obviously, the quality of materials and build is much better. PDK will take some getting use to, but it is probably the best auto out there, so I will get use to it. It has an extra gear over the manual, so that is another reason to get the PDK so the gearing isn't so long.