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Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB Problems, issues, recalls, TSBs


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Old 02-10-2021, 08:30 AM   #15
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Well then I guess I shall drop the gearbox soon, also gives me a chance to inspect the clutch, see what's what.

Do you guys recommend the reinforced fork or a new OEM one?
VERUS. Period. It's stout:


OEM is top, VERUS bottom.
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Old 02-10-2021, 09:46 AM   #16
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Any ideas on how TOB improvements made to 17+ cars effects durability?

60k range seems to be normal for 13-16.
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Old 02-12-2021, 08:36 AM   #17
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VERUS. Period. It's stout:


OEM is top, VERUS bottom.
Thanks for the input.

I'll be getting an all-verus kit (bearing, fork and pivot). But maybe in a month or so...
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Old 02-12-2021, 08:56 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by WNDSRFR View Post
It is definitely going to fail if it's original. May as well change it now on your terms rather than have it fail and be stranded.
I have a QUESTION.
Has anyone had a failure on the new replacement TOB yet? And if so, how long did it last?
Yes. The guy that bought my FRS had the "new" one fail. The first one (above) went at about 40,000 miles. The replacement lasted around 100,000 miles.
I am not 100% sure that the dealer used an updated part number when they replaced it though. Even then 100,000 miles is pretty good.
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Old 02-12-2021, 08:58 AM   #19
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Thanks for the input.

I'll be getting an all-verus kit (bearing, fork and pivot). But maybe in a month or so...
I can not say this enough. If you are driving the car and the bearing has started making noise change it now. Waiting "a month or so" was the mistake I made and it cost me a pile of money.
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Old 02-12-2021, 12:06 PM   #20
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I can not say this enough. If you are driving the car and the bearing has started making noise change it now. Waiting "a month or so" was the mistake I made and it cost me a pile of money.
The car is sitting right this time a year as the weather is shit. But since I have a track day booked next month I am worried some hard driving is gonna destroy it. Guess I'll be ordering the parts very soon..
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Old 02-12-2021, 12:23 PM   #21
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I can not say this enough. If you are driving the car and the bearing has started making noise change it now. Waiting "a month or so" was the mistake I made and it cost me a pile of money.
This is good advice. Once it starts to go, it’s inevitable. It’s not going to magically fix itself. Change it and minimize the damage.
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Old 02-12-2021, 01:12 PM   #22
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Mine went right at 50k. Talk about superior Subaru reliability lol. Glad I sold my car
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Old 02-12-2021, 01:18 PM   #23
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I had mine replaced when I had the recall done along with a new clutch at 40K miles. To add insult to injury when the motor went, I tried to drive it home then the fork went in the middle of the freeway during traffic hour. The morons at Irvine Toyota not only ruined the motor but didn't tighten the fork enough. I replaced it with the Verus when I had the new motor installed by HG Performance in San Marcos. Their tech there, Dylan is Zach Tuckers roommate and knows the FA20 like nobody else so any work you need in So Cal that is the place
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Old 02-12-2021, 01:22 PM   #24
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Mine started roughly around 69K. It started with just a slight grinding noise whenever I pressed the clutch. I dealt with it for a month and a half until it finally made a huge clunk noise about 1 mile from home (around 72k miles). I was able to limp it home but I could smell the toasted bearing. Got it replaced that following week at the dealership with the updated bearing along with a new clutch, flywheel and other stuff I didn’t feel like doing at the time. Cost about 1300.
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Old 02-12-2021, 01:29 PM   #25
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Mine went right at 50k. Talk about superior Subaru reliability lol. Glad I sold my car
are you that bored?
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Old 02-12-2021, 01:53 PM   #26
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The car is sitting right this time a year as the weather is shit. But since I have a track day booked next month I am worried some hard driving is gonna destroy it. Guess I'll be ordering the parts very soon..
Hows it going sniepster, theres some good info in here so far and some bad. I just changed a tob and clutch on my '13 at 45k miles a month or two ago. Heres what you need to know.

Buy the revised tob that has the white paint dot on it from verus engineering . Com. Do not bother with an upgraded clutch fork or pivot bearing if you are continuing to use the oem clutch. The Stronger fork is for use with an upgraded clutch with a much stiffer pressure plate. Thats the only case in which the oe fork would break. The OEM clutch you want to buy is part #30100AA870. That's what came with your car and it is perfect. Im still using it while supercharged. Reuse your existing pressure plate and flywheel.

My clutch/ tob replacement cost me about $450. 125 for the clutch disc. 40$ for the tob. $200 for labor (I have a friend who is a mechanic by trade who drifts a turbo frs who did it on a Saturday.) 60$ for new diff/trans fluid( do not use motul, it is "performance" and does not make great daily driver fluid, takes too long to warm up, shorter lifespan, doesnt like cold weather)
Do not get suckered into buying things you believe will make your car better but end up making it worse, ie, act performance clutch kit.

Do it soon, my clutch was hanging on by a thread, any longer and it would have started destroying my flywheel. Also, if you replace the tob now, you wont have to replace your output shaft. I might have another brief summary on my build thread, I'm not sure. Google the output shaft, that's all I got for u today.
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Old 02-12-2021, 02:13 PM   #27
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Hows it going sniepster, theres some good info in here so far and some bad. I just changed a tob and clutch on my '13 at 45k miles a month or two ago. Heres what you need to know.

Buy the revised tob that has the white paint dot on it from verus engineering . Com. Do not bother with an upgraded clutch fork or pivot bearing if you are continuing to use the oem clutch. The Stronger fork is for use with an upgraded clutch with a much stiffer pressure plate. Thats the only case in which the oe fork would break. The OEM clutch you want to buy is part #30100AA870. That's what came with your car and it is perfect. Im still using it while supercharged. Reuse your existing pressure plate and flywheel.

My clutch/ tob replacement cost me about $450. 125 for the clutch disc. 40$ for the tob. $200 for labor (I have a friend who is a mechanic by trade who drifts a turbo frs who did it on a Saturday.) 60$ for new diff/trans fluid( do not use motul, it is "performance" and does not make great daily driver fluid, takes too long to warm up, shorter lifespan, doesnt like cold weather)
Do not get suckered into buying things you believe will make your car better but end up making it worse, ie, act performance clutch kit.

Do it soon, my clutch was hanging on by a thread, any longer and it would have started destroying my flywheel. Also, if you replace the tob now, you wont have to replace your output shaft. I might have another brief summary on my build thread, I'm not sure. Google the output shaft, that's all I got for u today.
I hope you meant input shaft! If your bearing goes so bad it damages the output shaft then everything in between would be toast as well.

Even with my major meltdown my input shaft was pristine.
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Old 02-12-2021, 03:13 PM   #28
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The TOB is a wear item, not just how many miles but more important haw it is used.
Do you keep the clutch depressed while waiting at a stop light? That will heat it. Do you shift often or are you on a highway most of the time? Are you running events and hard shifting. Do you ride with your left foot on the pedal?
All these thing contribute to heat and "wearing" out.
Some of my antique cars have graphite TOBs. Very poor life compared to the new ones.
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