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02-10-2021, 08:30 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
OEM is top, VERUS bottom.
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02-10-2021, 09:46 AM | #16 |
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Any ideas on how TOB improvements made to 17+ cars effects durability?
60k range seems to be normal for 13-16. |
02-12-2021, 08:36 AM | #17 |
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02-12-2021, 08:56 AM | #18 | |
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I am not 100% sure that the dealer used an updated part number when they replaced it though. Even then 100,000 miles is pretty good.
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02-12-2021, 08:58 AM | #19 |
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I can not say this enough. If you are driving the car and the bearing has started making noise change it now. Waiting "a month or so" was the mistake I made and it cost me a pile of money.
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02-12-2021, 12:06 PM | #20 |
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The car is sitting right this time a year as the weather is shit. But since I have a track day booked next month I am worried some hard driving is gonna destroy it. Guess I'll be ordering the parts very soon..
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The Following User Says Thank You to Sniepster For This Useful Post: | Tcoat (02-12-2021) |
02-12-2021, 12:23 PM | #21 |
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This is good advice. Once it starts to go, it’s inevitable. It’s not going to magically fix itself. Change it and minimize the damage.
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02-12-2021, 01:12 PM | #22 |
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Mine went right at 50k. Talk about superior Subaru reliability lol. Glad I sold my car
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02-12-2021, 01:18 PM | #23 |
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I had mine replaced when I had the recall done along with a new clutch at 40K miles. To add insult to injury when the motor went, I tried to drive it home then the fork went in the middle of the freeway during traffic hour. The morons at Irvine Toyota not only ruined the motor but didn't tighten the fork enough. I replaced it with the Verus when I had the new motor installed by HG Performance in San Marcos. Their tech there, Dylan is Zach Tuckers roommate and knows the FA20 like nobody else so any work you need in So Cal that is the place
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02-12-2021, 01:22 PM | #24 |
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Mine started roughly around 69K. It started with just a slight grinding noise whenever I pressed the clutch. I dealt with it for a month and a half until it finally made a huge clunk noise about 1 mile from home (around 72k miles). I was able to limp it home but I could smell the toasted bearing. Got it replaced that following week at the dealership with the updated bearing along with a new clutch, flywheel and other stuff I didn’t feel like doing at the time. Cost about 1300.
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02-12-2021, 01:29 PM | #25 |
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02-12-2021, 01:53 PM | #26 | |
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Quote:
Buy the revised tob that has the white paint dot on it from verus engineering . Com. Do not bother with an upgraded clutch fork or pivot bearing if you are continuing to use the oem clutch. The Stronger fork is for use with an upgraded clutch with a much stiffer pressure plate. Thats the only case in which the oe fork would break. The OEM clutch you want to buy is part #30100AA870. That's what came with your car and it is perfect. Im still using it while supercharged. Reuse your existing pressure plate and flywheel. My clutch/ tob replacement cost me about $450. 125 for the clutch disc. 40$ for the tob. $200 for labor (I have a friend who is a mechanic by trade who drifts a turbo frs who did it on a Saturday.) 60$ for new diff/trans fluid( do not use motul, it is "performance" and does not make great daily driver fluid, takes too long to warm up, shorter lifespan, doesnt like cold weather) Do not get suckered into buying things you believe will make your car better but end up making it worse, ie, act performance clutch kit. Do it soon, my clutch was hanging on by a thread, any longer and it would have started destroying my flywheel. Also, if you replace the tob now, you wont have to replace your output shaft. I might have another brief summary on my build thread, I'm not sure. Google the output shaft, that's all I got for u today.
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02-12-2021, 02:13 PM | #27 | |
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Quote:
Even with my major meltdown my input shaft was pristine.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Tcoat For This Useful Post: | HaXx (02-13-2021) |
02-12-2021, 03:13 PM | #28 |
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The TOB is a wear item, not just how many miles but more important haw it is used.
Do you keep the clutch depressed while waiting at a stop light? That will heat it. Do you shift often or are you on a highway most of the time? Are you running events and hard shifting. Do you ride with your left foot on the pedal? All these thing contribute to heat and "wearing" out. Some of my antique cars have graphite TOBs. Very poor life compared to the new ones. |
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