DIY - GrimmSpeed Intake Installation Guide

[GrimmSpeed]

GrimmSpeed Install Guide Series
Installing the GrimmSpeed BRZ/FR-S Intake
Updated 11/3/14
PDF Version of the following guide

Introduction: This guide will illustrate the installation of the GrimmSpeed BRZ/FR-S Intake system. The difficulty here is medium, so take your time and enjoy the job! Expect to spend 30-60min, depending on level of experience.

Tools: The tools listed below are suggested for this task. Optional tools are noted.
- Flathead and phillips screwdrivers
- Pliers
- 10mm socket and accompanying extensions/ratchet
- 3mm allen wrench
- 4mm allen wrench

Tips: Take care to follow the installation instructions very carefully when installing the filter onto the intake tube. This measurement is quite important and will ensure that the MAF sensor reads accurately!
 
Procedure:
1. Begin by collecting your tools and popping your hood.
2. First, follow the factory sound generator tube to the firewall, use a pair of pliers to loosen the clamp and then pull it loose. At the same time, release any other clips holding the hose to the car. From inside the passenger footwell, use the included cap to seal the passenger compartment from the engine bay (figure 0).



3. Next, remove the two 10mm bolts securing the sound generator to the engine (figure 1).



4. Remove the three 10mm bolts securing the factory airbox to the chassis (figure 2). Keep track of these, as we’ll reuse two of them during installation of the GrimmSpeed air box.



5. Release the MAF sensor harness from the MAF sensor (figure 3). Also release the small clip securing the harness wire to the airbox (figure 4).







6. Use a pair of pliers to remove the clamp holding the PCV fitting to the stock intake tube (figure 5). Keep track of the clamp, as you’ll be reusing it.



7. Next, use your flathead screwdriver to loosen the hose clamp securing the stock intake to the throttle body (figure 6). Also loosen the hose clamp securing the sound generator to the factory intake tube (figure 7). Now, you should be free to remove the stock intake system completely, including the sound generator assembly.





8. Remove the rubber isolator grommets from the stock intake. To do this, push the metal sleeve out of the rubber grommet and then slide the grommet off of the tab (figure 8). The GrimmSpeed intake system reuses these, so go ahead and install them on the grimmspeed airbox (figure 9). Using a bit of o-ring lube or soapy water will help the metal insert slip in nicely.





9. Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the MAF sensor from the stock intake (figure 10). You’ll want to reinstall the stock screws into the stock MAF housing, in case you need them in the future. Using the included machine screws and a 3mm allen wrench, install the MAF into the GrimmSpeed intake tube (figure 11). Lubricate the o-ring before installation. A little bit of water/soap/oil/saliva will do. Tighten until snug.

[GrimmSpeed]

10. Install the included rubber gasket pieces onto the airbox and lid as shown in figures 12, 13 and 14. Note that the rubber gasket tends to ‘favor’ one side. It’s easiest if you keep that side to the outside of the box.







11. Set the airbox into place and seat the stock intake snorkel into the front gasket. This may take some finesse, but should fit like a glove with a little bit of effort (figure 15).



12. Using the two bolts that secured the factory airbox, bolt the GrimmSpeed airbox into the car (figure 16). Torquing to 10ftlbs is plenty.



13. Next, install the hump hose coupler onto the throttle body. Tighten the hose clamp holding the coupler to the throttle body (figure 17). Snug will do.



14. Using a pairs of scissors, cut the included grommet so that it can be slipped around the MAF harness wire. Slip the wire/grommet into the round recess on the airbox (figure 18). It will fit nicely with the rubber gasket. The MAF connector should now be inside of the airbox.



15. Grab your intake tube and holding the end of the tube with the MAF flange, slide the other end through the hole from the inside of the box, toward the throttle body (figure 19). Slide the tube into the throttle body coupler but do not tighten.



16. Take the filter and its clamp out of their packaging and slip the filter into the airbox (figure 20). There will be just enough room to get the filter onto the intake tube. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CLAMP YET.



17. This step is critically important, so proceed with caution! The air filter features an internal radius that is very effective in speeding up the intake air as it passes the MAF sensor and can affect AFRs greatly. The base of the filter should sit 1 inch from the flat face of the MAF flange (figure 21). Tighten the hose clamp until the filter is securely mounted to the intake tube.

[GrimmSpeed]

18. Getting close! Now adjust the intake tube so that the air filter end cap rests right in the rounded edge on far side of the snorkel gasket (figure 22). This is the location that tested best in our CFD modeling and evenly distributes the incoming airflow around the entire surface of the filter (this is key!). Now, tighten that hose clamp until snug as well (figure 23).





19. Connect the MAF harness connector to the MAF sensor (figure 24).



20. All clamps should now be tightened. Next, we’ll reinstall the PCV system as shown using the included hose and clamp (figure 25).



21. We’ll be installing the lid next, so now is a good time to double check everything and ensure that the MAF wire isn’t at risk of touching your accessory belt. The stock clip should keep it safe. If you happen to have the GrimmSpeed pulley cover, you may need to use a zip tie to secure the wire farther forward and prevent it from chaffing on the cover.

22. Lastly, use the six machine screws and washers to install the lid. Install them all loosely before going back to tighten them using your 4mm allen wrench (figure 26). Depending on the order in which you install them, you may need to push on the box a bit for a perfect fit. Just use care not to cross-thread any of the bolts and you’ll be just fine!



23. If you’d like, you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery, hitting the brake pedal and then reconnecting. Before restarting the car, turn the key to the ‘on’ position and fully press and release the gas pedal 5 times. Turn the car off and then back to the ‘on’ position. Press and release the pedal 5 more times. Turn the car off and then start the car. This will help reduce the amount of time you need to wait until your throttle response returns to normal.

24. Now go and enjoy your new intake (figure 27)!



That’s it! You should be all set to go. Check the assembly periodically to make sure everything is still snug. This intake works very well with no tuning, but to extract its full potential, tuning is always a great option.

Don’t hesitate to contact us directly with any questions!
Sales@GrimmSpeed.com | 612-379-0000

[Jolaessss]

WOO! can't wait to receive mine!

[chanomatik]

Pretty thorough write up! I guess we'll know more once people start installing these. It'll be a week or three before I see mine since it's shipping to Seattle and waiting for a stock load to Alaska after that.

Procedures #2 and #14 have grammatical errors: "a" being used in front of "pliers" and "scissors" (plural words). Otherwise it looks professional enough to me!

[ck-GT86]

Question @GrimmSpeed , is there a chance of hot air to seep in shown in picture 24? There's a gap between the pipe near the MAF that goes to the throttle body. It doesn't look like the lid seals that off. If it doesn't, is it safe to add more trim to that area to keep hot air from the engine to get in? Have you guys tested with this area closed off?

Thanks

.ck

[GrimmSpeed]

Originally Posted by Jolaessss

WOO! can't wait to receive mine!

Originally Posted by chanomatik

Pretty thorough write up! I guess we'll know more once people start installing these. It'll be a week or three before I see mine since it's shipping to Seattle and waiting for a stock load to Alaska after that.

Procedures #2 and #14 have grammatical errors: "a" being used in front of "pliers" and "scissors" (plural words). Otherwise it looks professional enough to me!

Hey, we're engineers, not english majors! I'll take it!

Originally Posted by ck-GT86

Question @GrimmSpeed , is there a chance of hot air to seep in shown in picture 24? There's a gap between the pipe near the MAF that goes to the throttle body. It doesn't look like the lid seals that off. If it doesn't, is it safe to add more trim to that area to keep hot air from the engine to get in? Have you guys tested with this area closed off?

Thanks

.ck

What you're seeing in figure 24 is the airbox without the lid installed. The lid fills in that gap perfectly (check out figure 14)!

Matt Beenen
Engineering

[WhiteFRS69]

damn! this looks great!
one of the better looking intakes IMO

[ck-GT86]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

Hey, we're engineers, not english majors! I'll take it!

What you're seeing in figure 24 is the airbox without the lid installed. The lid fills in that gap perfectly (check out figure 14)!

Matt Beenen
Engineering

Did you know how awesome you guys are?

.ck

[xn7485]

Awesome write up, straightforward install! The only issue I had was how the MAF wires can't use the GS engine cover relocator clip position anymore, and needed to be ziptied - on the PCV elbow in my case.

Suggestion: Fit the rubber gasket material on the inlet so that the ends are on the bottom of the intake, so it's not visible like mine.
Also, the seam of the intake tube is under the rubber gasket material, not sure if that is a cause for concern though - will be adjusting gasket material so it fits better with the lid seal.

Oh yeah, couldn't use the tool tray for this install

Put me down for GS headers, please.

[GrimmSpeed]

Thanks for the feedback - looks great with the pulley cover and STB!

Yes, the gasket location and installation can take some finesse, but you can always go back and make adjustments. If you do happen to damage the gasket or need replacements for any reason, our customer service guys can probably get you another kit for the cost of shipping.

Matt Beenen
Engineering

[00NissanNinja]

Well I couldn't wait till the weekend:



I do have one question though about this:



The intake box is really close to this electrical connection, have you guys had any issues with it rubbing on this over time there is only a couple mm of space between it and the box. I don't know how much the box moves while driving but I will probably check box movement tomorrow when there is more light.

Other than that its running great and the install went smoothly! Also do you recommend disconnecting the battery, you said in the DIY could if I wanted so just wondering if it is recommended.

[GrimmSpeed]

Looks great! As for the electrical connector, it's definitely close, but I wouldn't worry about it. The box doesn't move at all, really, but the motor will. Couldn't hurt to keep an eye on it for the first month or two, but we've had the airbox on our car for quite a while with no issue!

As for the battery disconnect, my understanding is that it just helps the ECU adjust to the intake faster. I'll see what super smart technical input Chase has on that in the morning!

Matt Beenen
Engineering

[00NissanNinja]

Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed

As for the battery disconnect, my understanding is that it just helps the ECU adjust to the intake faster. I'll see what super smart technical input Chase has on that in the morning!

Matt Beenen
Engineering

Cool thanks. I like it, makes a nice subtle induction noise without making the car much louder. Very mature sound, and I definitely feel a difference. I think I will try adjusting the box a bit if I can since now that I look again its touching the connector. Might want to add a be careful of the Oil pressure/temp (whichever one it is I forget) during installation.