KPower Industries K24 swap

[JesseG]

Originally Posted by Petah78

The FA20 is the one and only let down to an otherwise amazing chassis and i am not just comparing it to Honda's K/B/F series engine. I regularly drive my wife's IS350 and despite a lower redline, the engine feels much smoother when i hone it around town. The FA20 will rev out but it doesn't feel/sound happy while doing it. Still, i bought one because i just love the overall chassis dynamics. The k swap is a very interesting proposition, combining one of the best engines with one of the best chassis on the market.

To be fair, the IS350 has a ton more refinement built into it. But you make a really good point. Toyota CAN build silky smooth engines that rev high. Why they didn’t choose to put a more refined engine in the 86 I will never understand. When it was revealed the MKV Supra was going to have a BMW I6, I knew there would never be a chance of a Toyota engine in the 2nd gen 86.
So the twins for me are in many ways the perfect car from my two favorite car companies. Subaru was not enthusiastic about the project at first, but I think that changed over time. Toyota should have listened to them about the engine though. And in a strange way it actually helped Subaru test and design their next generation of engines, and they can finally move away from the EJ. I owned an early 2002 WRX and that is my all time favorite car I’ve owned. Boxers just have all sorts of character and strangeness, I think that’s why I’m drawn to them. Honda engines in comparison are almost too good?! It’s hard to explain.


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[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

Buddy he's using an oem oil pan and un modified oem cross member. Haha Yah it would sit higher. Why not assume actually trying to fit the engine in the car along with all the other assumptions? If the car or swap was designed around the engine fitting it would have a crossmember clearanced for it or at least a bespoke oil pan. Have a peak at a current gen miata engine bay to see if your firewall argument holds up...

Yeah, I don't know. The 2AZ is inline and the K24 is at a slight slant, so that could help, but I still don't think it would be enough for the same hood height. From what I read, he used a bellhousing adapter plate, so that is likely less than an inch, and he mounted it to the stock transmission, so unless he mounted the engine high and the transmission is pointing down, the engine fit fine without the need for a custom oil pan. In fact, maybe he would have needed to make custom transmission mounts if he was going to drop the engine lower. In the Kpower blog they mentioned not just moving the transmission back, but also down.

I don't know about the firewall. It wasn't a for-certain thing. I would have to imagine that it isn't just about the firewall, but the distance from the nose or start of the crumple zone to the engine and the distance from the engine to the firewall or the driver. As far as the Miata, it is hard to tell. The Miata has a strut bar over the back of the engine, so it looks closer than it may be, and the head and valve cover kind of protrudes beyond the bulk of the longblock, as seen below, compared to the K24, which has a fairly flat backside once some coolant lines are maneuvered, so again, it may look further back than it actual is.




I guess one thing to compare if the Edelbrock kit and the K24 positioned in these pics, and the thing to note is the Edelbrock supercharger requires the removal of the hood heat shield for clearance.





Look, coming from a Supra world, I would love an engine bay that looks like this. Sign me up:

https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=57004

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Yeah, I don't know. The 2AZ is inline and the K24 is at a slight slant, so that could help, but I still don't think it would be enough for the same hood height. From what I read, he used a bellhousing adapter plate, so that is likely less than an inch, and he mounted it to the stock transmission, so unless he mounted the engine high and the transmission is pointing down, the engine fit fine without the need for a custom oil pan. In fact, maybe he would have needed to make custom transmission mounts if he was going to drop the engine lower. In the Kpower blog they mentioned not just moving the transmission back, but also down.



No, he said it sits up high because he only had an OEM FWD oil pan to work with. He explained that a custom oil pan would let it sit much lower. I messaged him about the swap because it was super cheap <$3000 but it doesn't really fit. Fit means it sits in an engine bay and the hood closes...


I don't know about the firewall. It wasn't a for-certain thing. I would have to imagine that it isn't just about the firewall, but the distance from the nose or start of the crumple zone to the engine and the distance from the engine to the firewall or the driver. As far as the Miata, it is hard to tell. The Miata has a strut bar over the back of the engine, so it looks closer than it may be, and the head and valve cover kind of protrudes beyond the bulk of the longblock, as seen below, compared to the K24, which has a fairly flat backside once some coolant lines are maneuvered, so again, it may look further back than it actual is.




I guess one thing to compare if the Edelbrock kit and the K24 positioned in these pics, and the thing to note is the Edelbrock supercharger requires the removal of the hood heat shield for clearance.





Look, coming from a Supra world, I would love an engine bay that looks like this. Sign me up:

https://engineswapdepot.com/?p=57004

I've talked to the owner of the 2ar swap. He said it sits up high because he only had an OEM FWD oil pan to work with. He explained that a custom oil pan would let it sit much lower. I messaged him about the swap because it was super cheap <$3000 but it doesn't really fit. Fit meaning it sits in an engine bay and the hood closes...But as you see it can fit just fine in an OEM like location like every other I4 you have seen.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

I've talked to the owner of the 2ar swap. He said it sits up high because he only had an OEM FWD oil pan to work with. He explained that a custom oil pan would let it sit much lower. I messaged him about the swap because it was super cheap <$3000 but it doesn't really fit. Fit meaning it sits in an engine bay and the hood closes...But as you see it can fit just fine in an OEM like location like every other I4 you have seen.

It was a 2AZ I believe. I know it can fit further back and lower with relocating the transmission back and other modifications to the oil pan and cross member. Just saying. It’s tall for the hood.

[Swift]

I live in the northern midwest and I have lost count of how many heads or full engines needed to be replaced in basic foresters. It is a joke to say the least.

Local dealership is probably doing 4 engines a week. Even after a head job one seemed like it still had a misfire but was not showing it. I am sorry but that is what has kept me from this chassis the longest.

The new motor should be good, but I wont chance it since I like the looks of the 1st gen better and I am all honda baby!

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Swift

I live in the northern midwest and I have lost count of how many heads or full engines needed to be replaced in basic foresters. It is a joke to say the least.

Local dealership is probably doing 4 engines a week. Even after a head job one seemed like it still had a misfire but was not showing it. I am sorry but that is what has kept me from this chassis the longest.

The new motor should be good, but I wont chance it since I like the looks of the 1st gen better and I am all honda baby!

What head issue are they having?

[Swift]

It is common for them to drop valve seats, guides, but leaky headgaskets is number one issue.


On the newer motors they still are having oil control issues. Replaced numerous engines because of this, but on the older engines the headgaskets could have caused and overheating situation and BAM now you WILL have oil control issues.

[Goingnowherefast]

I think people are misinterpreting who this swap might be for. To me, this swap fills a unique niche for people that A. Blew up their FA20 and don't want to spend $3,000+ on the same engine and B. People that run in classes that aren't affected by engine swaps. For instance, in Gridlife Streetmod RWD you will literally be in the same class with the standard FA20 or the K24 making 30+ more WHP and weighing 140 lbs less. In that scenario, this swap begins to make a lot of sense. Not to mention the amount of Haltech and K series tuners are basically infinite in the US.

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast

I think people are misinterpreting who this swap might be for. To me, this swap fills a unique niche for people that A. Blew up their FA20 and don't want to spend $3,000+ on the same engine and B. People that run in classes that aren't affected by engine swaps. For instance, in Gridlife Streetmod RWD you will literally be in the same class with the standard FA20 or the K24 making 30+ more WHP and weighing 140 lbs less. In that scenario, this swap begins to make a lot of sense. Not to mention the amount of Haltech and K series tuners are basically infinite in the US.

There is also option C. for crazy people like me who are interested in engine swaps that aren't LS or 2JZ based. I would wager the vast majority of engine swaps never even make it to the track. I'm interested because I think it would be a fun interesting project and a satisfying learning experience. Also $3000 for another FA20 is probably only a 1/3 of what this swap will cost all said and done with much less effort. lol

[Drifter X]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

There is also option C. for crazy people like me who are interested in engine swaps that aren't LS or 2JZ based. I would wager the vast majority of engine swaps never even make it to the track. I'm interested because I think it would be a fun interesting project and a satisfying learning experience. Also $3000 for another FA20 is probably only a 1/3 of what this swap will cost all said and done with much less effort. lol

Beat me to C. LOL. I miss my SR20DET and these K motors gave my s14 a hard time on the 1/4 mile. So yeah I’d like to do this swap just because.


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[Takumi788]

Been waiting for this kit for a few months now. I have been very fortunate with the FA20 but I am very excited to sell it and swap in a cheaper, easier to maintain engine with more potential. Now, to boost or not to boost?

[Limitless_BRZ]

I will be getting this for the FRS shell in my garage. Looks promising

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by PulsarBeeerz

There is also option C. for crazy people like me who are interested in engine swaps that aren't LS or 2JZ based. I would wager the vast majority of engine swaps never even make it to the track. I'm interested because I think it would be a fun interesting project and a satisfying learning experience. Also $3000 for another FA20 is probably only a 1/3 of what this swap will cost all said and done with much less effort. lol

Probably more.

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Probably more.

Ok?